DutchEdwin

The problem solved it selve. See more detail in my post at the P15-d24 site. There were end plugs in the shaft, but 4/5 inch deep inside. Didn't see them in my pictures when I checked.

Johnny, Just read about mom and the new born. Congratulations. Enjoy the having a baby and forget you have to go to the garage some times. The moment will never come again. The car repair will Edwin. P.S. Put a thumbnail for pic's of your car so we can see.

I have to confess, I made a little mistake.....but I was thinking it over however and that's what count (my opinion but you may shoot at that ). Here is the story. When I first looked at the site of Bob Walker's http://www.hothemiheads.com/ I saw the shaft's end plugs. I've seen pictures of Hemi heads also, in those pictures an end plug on the end of the rocker shaft was there. Hmmmmm was there one in my shaft, looked at my picture and could see a mounting bolt inside the shaft like you can see in the second picture pointed at. Alarm bells ring, I NEED DOSE!!! Yesterday I went into my garage to measure the shaft for ordering these end plugs at Hothemi or Kanter. There is an end plug inside, only it is about 4/5 inch deep into the shaft, placed after the bolt at the end of the shaft. So No plugs needed. Just clean the inside, you can see in the first picture why, and pressure test it for leaks at the plugs. No leaks, no new plugs. Only good cleaning. Johnny 5 is right about how things work. In my case...all oil holes (in the rockers, in the hollow bolts...) are clogged with the black thing that killed my engine. Happy (ever) after cleaning job to do this weekend. Thanks for helping out any way. Still more to come As I go through the process. Edwin.

Thanks for the info, I'm in contact with Nick form Hemihotheads, for the last few bugs of parts I need. I'll send him the update list. Hope you're right about the size being the same as from a hemi rocker. Hell, what idiot did try to repair my engine before I got it. Removing end caps ..... Can anyone @#$%@&*>?%^&$#@ him if you see him Boy, Am I glad I can think my way through this being a smart guy....

Good idea to get a paper air cleaner. Any good suggestions for my filter, 1955 260 cu.in. V8

Rebuilding a 1955 Plymouth / dodge engine, 260 cu.in. V8. My engine is a Poly head, not a Hemi. Now I'm trying the figure out the way all the oil flows. When looking at the rocker shaft, it seems it is getting its oil from the block, in the middle of the shaft. Don't know how yet, through the bolt? But as all rockers need oil I thought that the shaft would probably need end plugs or caps. But......there are no end plugs there! Is is right? If not, where can I get some, or can I make them myself. Thanks Edwin.

Rebuilding a 1955 Plymouth / dodge engine, 260 cu.in. V8. My engine is a Poly head, not a Hemi. Now I'm trying the figure out the way all the oil flows. When looking at the rocker shaft, it seems it is getting its oil from the block, in the middle of the shaft. Don't know how yet, through the bolt? But as all rockers need oil I thought that the shaft would probably need end plugs or caps. But......there are no end plugs there! Is is right? If not, where can I get some, or can I make them myself. :confused: Thanks Edwin.

How can you Lay down in a caravan like that, do you have top stick your feet out of the window, just jocking, I like to see there is someone else with a suburban, For being a foreigner, what is the car type?

Norm, Indeed, it's a while since I bought my ride, it's been painful to get all the parts, and it's been painful in my wallet. But in the end, it's worth it. Like at your place, call GM...and it's available. Call Mopar.....MOPAR who? is the answer. The only parts you can get then are parts from the 1970 and later. Finally to assembly. Hope to get it on the road, thanks to a lot of people like you Norm. I think I'll be asking a lot of questions on simple items like these bolts, but heck, that's where the fun starts....figuring it all the out . have some and after that :) . I'll keep you all informed, with pics. Greg, for my V8, it's the same as on 6 cil. Cooling and oil galleries ending in bolts who need sealing. The head bolts do not need any sealing (but I still have to study on that subject). Painting and cleaning is the job right now. Study on the next to come.

Thank you all for your reply For loctite is common over here I looked up what they advise to use. I do not want to be surprised not to get my bolts loose again. So I added the break loose force to it of a M10 bolt, about 7/16 in. Loctite® 542 - Hydraulic Threadsealant for Fine Threads (25Nm 18.4 ft lbf) http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/542-EN.pdf Loctite® 572 - Slow Cure (20Nm, 15 ft lbf) http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/572-EN.pdf Loctite® 577 - General Purpose Threadsealant (17Nm, 12.5 ft lbf) http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/577-EN.pdf for gasket replacement, the oil pan and timing chain cover: Loctite® 518 - Gasketing Product http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/518-EN.pdf Loctite® 510 - Gasket Eliminator - High Temperature (200°C) http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/510-EN.pdf According to Loctite the most suitable Loctite® 5910 - Flexible Flange Sealant High Temperature (200°C) http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/5910-EN.pdf I'll use the loctite 5910 between the cover and gasket. between gasket and engine just a little grease to prevent it from rusting. In this way I hope I can remove it without pain staking cleaning the gasket replacement.

The paint looks good on my hands. I just hate those gloves. No good cleaning device as your own fingers. Next paint job tomorrow. The paint from the last job is almost gone.... from the fingers. The parts ready look greatttttt.

Do you have a type number on that? That is, if I can find Permatex over here, was out of my country for a few years......

Went to the store today to buy some sealant for the bolts that go into the coolant and oil galleries. I was stunned, the guy had no idea what I was talking about. So leaves me without sealant. Does anyone know what I can use for this? In my manual is says that I should use sealant for the oilpan, if I recall right, between the gasket and the oilpan. What is this for, Can I better use modern fluid gasket material?

Ever eaten eggs from them...... At least the male doesn't wake you up at 5 AM

Norm, be carefull!!! They both bite when you try to touch them :D

Rebuilding my P27 V8 I would like to know your opinion on this one. The oil filter on my 1955 P27 V8 has a canister/cartridge inside. I can keep using this one and try to find a replacement filter or switch to easy to find modern filter. Question, I would like to keep the car as original as possible. So I would prefer the old cartridge type filter, including the oil dripping when exchanged. But is it as good as the new types? Look at the tread from hothemihead for the adapter http://hotrodsandhemis.com/[/url] at tab "rebuilding a Hemi" http://www.hothemiheads.com/dodge/oiling_system/oil_filter_adapter_30d.html and from Whittakers, at http://hotrodsandhemis.com/ For installing a modern filter. Second question, the check ball valve. I've read that the original old system the ball check valve could let oil through the system without going through the oil filter. So the ball check valve in the main oil supply galley should be removed and an oil filter bypass plug (which is a must if you're using a modern filter) be installed (see picture 4 and 5 beginning from the top). In my engine, only the ball and guide cylinder at the main bearing are there. Is this nessesary, or is the check ball valve as good. And it so, can anyone give the spec's of the spring, outer diameter, wire thickness and lenght?

What are the acceptable levels of zinc in the oil? I'm rebuilding my engine, new tappets, new cam. The old cam was round as can be. Would like to prevent that.

Mike, is this what you call vintage :o

If you are using a rear earth magnet, use a good one. They tend to break down slowly from the inside out and leave you with a heap of rear earth powder. It will do for a few years indoors but under the hood, with high temps and salt only a yellow zinc coat magnet will do. This problem of self destruction has been solved only one year ago. I would go for a bracket and a smalll trunk clamp or bolt to hold it dow.

Like Murphy Law says.....A $300 tube will protect a $0,10 fuse by blowing first. And the truth is, it's true. The fuse will only protect the system (your car) from going up into flames. My old tube car radio from 1955 will draw 9 amps. So the fuse is an 12 amps slow fuse. When I have a short, then the fuse will blow, probably the tubes in the radio will be gone by then .

For DST in Europe, we go over at 25 March. Soon enough. I'm not ready to skipp that 1 hour of sleep yet . That will bring us 1 hour closer to each other for a few day's. Last few day's we've had 66F over here. So, YESSSSS I finaly got to paint my engine parts. Hope it will stay like this for a few day's so I can finish painting. I must say, the POR15 manual is right.......it will NOT get off. So I'm typing this mail with silver grey fingers.

Your fan motor would take as much as about 8 amps on a 6V system. This would be P=UxI= 6x8=48W. I do not know it the resistor is in series or parallel to the motor windings. If it is parallel, using a 2.2 ohm resistor U=IxR -> I=U/R 6/2.2= 2.73Amps. In heat this means, P=UxI 6x2.73=16Watt. That's a lot of heat. Someone should be able to tell if it is in series or parallel. That way, you can calculate the power it should withstand. Any shop that sells electronical meaterial will sell these high power resistors. I've Had the same problem, only my resistor just changed in resistance, evaporated material over time. The resistor I used is a 10Watt resistor. Be careful not to let it touch any wires, it will sure burn them. Edwin

We should all send some flowers to the poor things funeral:o

Yep, the site is Portugal, but the posts are in a Scandinavian language, Probably Norwgian or Denish. They'll have to drive at least 2000 miles to get there. B.t.w. It you buy the property and all paperwork is done, transfer is finished and it's still in the barn......well the junkyard is yours, that is only....if you insist to the previous owner hes has to take all his wrecks out by next morning:D .

To bad yours have hoses, I like mine better ^^ :D