DutchEdwin

Can you tell me why there is a shoulder under the head of the bolt? My opinion: It prevents the bolt of getting stuck inside the bore in the block. The gap between the block and the bolt is to narrow when there is no recess. So the bolt cannot stretch when under stress of every stroke the engine makes. Then something has to give way. Or you simply cannot get the bolt loose any more after a while it has been sitting in the bore for years and years.

6) the exploded view of the 3 speed gearbox In the centre the synchronizer.

I did the gearbox today, had to remove the rear main shaft seal. Did get that one out without any problem. But when I turned the gearbox over after I let all the oil out I heard KLING-KLONG from the inside NOT GOOD. So I opened the gear box by removing the gearshift housing. Looking closer I could see pins lying at the bottom. It seems all three pins from the synchronizer stop ring inner had snapped off (see picures). So the question is, 1) How do I get to the stop ring. 2) where do I find a replacement. If there is no replacement, I can try to remake it by perhaps press out the old sheared off ones and make new pins. To explain the pictures, 1) the gearbox, 3 speed from 1955 plymouth. 2) the inside, when the gearshift housing is removed, showing the pin of the outer synchronizer. 3) close up pin of outer synchronizer 4) 3 recovered pins out of the gearbox 5) the drawing from the service manual 6) In the next mail, the exploded view of the 3 speed gearbox

I had the trouble on posting pictures on the forum because I do not have an own website. Those pictures always were to large. I did find a very useful tool that converts high MB-pictures into good postable low bits. http://www.gadwin.com/ at the right bottom there is a freeware programme Gadwin Printscreen 3.5. This program uses the printscreen function, only now you can draw a rectangle on what you want to copy. easy to use adjustable to JPG/GIF/PNG/ etc.

Don, ever heard of a bicycle, you can store one in the trunk if you want too Saves your foot ware when the sending unit failed. In this way it is of no use

you can try new gasket materials like silicon based Loctite material. http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=114&layout=3 Just give loctite a mail, who knows they can help you out. The 5920 seals go up to 350C (660F). Do not know if this will cover the temp at the exhaust.

My mower is made of plastic. Doubt it will hold in those vibrations. Worth a test

Norm, It will not help with your problem, but me being at some long end on the forum, I have no problem with it. My tube is a 100Mbps ADSL line. I have some friends that do computer things. They told me a virus scanner like Norton will not protect you. I have McAfee and have to run PCtools sometimes inside a tool called hitmanpro. it is free to use. It always comes up with some kind of (harmless) spyware or worm inside my computer. I read my mail on the web, will not download it onto my PC until I really know it it free from viruses. Although hitmanpro will not support W98 like you have, just visit it and read what's on it for knowledge. For all of you who do have XP, it is free to use. It will help to get your PC clean. http://www.hitmanpro.nl/hitmanpro/index.php?lang=en This guy makes the program that combines 30 day's free tools. launches a new version about every two month.

Perhaps this site? http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=382&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Differential+Pinion+Seal or Napa. It has mine. Not sure about your car. I did mine pinion seal years ago with a NOS leather seal. Not a thing I would recommend to do. It is still leaking a little bit. Not as much as it was. There was no groove on the shaft. Must be the leather type. Edwin.

I do have a prof-tool set in US-tools, the one with the most articles inside, I needed to use all tools inside already You must have it when doing a car like this. And your right, some times a metric tool fits better then a ASTM-tool, European perfection :D My tool fits the nut. so that's not the problem But if the shop has it in impact tool size???? BUT, As I was writing this mail I just went to my garage to check what size I was using on the nut, (a 32mm wrench on a 31 mm nut, do not now the 1 X/X in inches). It sat for two days in WD40. Just an other try to get it loose and it moved. I love it when a plan comes together. :D Thanks Norm.

ok, then the lesson should perhaps go on worms, toyen horses, etc. I only just run hitmanpro, a program that runs a lot of these software, combined. But one step more and that's out of my territory. I my view, when I buy a car it will run as good on the first day as on the fifth year. Most people will stay off the car. When you buy a computer and get in the www....then there are people who immediately will try to kill the machine just for fun. This is costing all of us a lot of $$$$€€€. So I say, when I meet a hacker, I will want to walk up to his car and make a tiny little scratch on it, and wonder what he will say to me about that. Perhaps he will not want to understand what I'm trying to tell him. :D Norm good luck on finding out what's wrong.

Norm, you would probably have thought of this but.....here's a point of caution for all of you who didn't. Most people when they do a tank job the right way the weld it, paint it and wire it. Then they discover..... the sending unit does not operate. So they run a wire from the gauge to the sending unit. Now all is fine, unit works, gauge works, let's go driving Here's where you should stop and start to think, did I forget something :confused: . The answer is YES. All tanks we use are made of metal. When you did the paint job you insulated the tank. By doing this you are letting static to built up when you drive. Can you imagine what will happen on a perfect sunny day, low moister in the air. You will be driving a time bomb with a random timing generator on when it will ignite the gas in the tank. To give you an estimate, a helicopter will built up as much as 60,000 Volts only because of the air rubbing the fuselage by the down draft of the rotors. I've seen a test film on comparing a plastic tank with a metal tank (in this case, ignition by heat). It is pretty impressive on what will happen. Now I know why they now will use plastic tanks. So the lesson of today is, GROUND WIRE YOUR TANK.

uhhhhhh, I don't have one. Already tried 3 foot pipe, pretensioned, hammered with a 2 pound hammer....no luck sofar . Thanks for the suggestion.

Now I know my local shop has the seal. But....... now all I have to do is get to the seal. The tranny is on the bench. I have the hand brake applied again and tight so the brake drum does not move. I try to get the nut loose but if will NOT move. I do not want to use heat (I only have a butane burner, not propane). Any ideas

Norm' date=' If you are still runneing W 98, you probably have speed problems because the anti virus programs eat up much speed of your machine, I asume you have an old PC. I also have an old PC (pentium 1) on this one I run AVG free anti virus software ( [url']http://free.grisoft.com/doc/1[/url] ) It keeps up with the virus problems. Never had any problem with that one.

Did any of you run: XP Repair Pro 2006 This program cleans all left, not closed links in windows XP. I did this a week ago. It cleaned 2500 left overs from old links. It does make your computer faster, and it does not look at (m)any links that lead to nothing.

Hi all, who can help me on my head bolts, I understood these are grade 4 bolts. I like to have new ones. Hotheads has grade 8 but only for hemi's. Mine is shorter. the size is, 1/2 inch bolt. (115mm) 4.5 inch long. See drawing.

Patience it a mans best friend. I used WD40 on a stuck heat riser, may bolts etc. Let is rest for a day, try again, more WD40, an other day, try again well you get the picture. My heat riser is moving almost like new (but I've never seen a new one) and I didnt break any bolt on my engine when I took it apart. Only took me two weeks of patience to get my exhaust off, without braking anything. Gentile like you treat you wife . Did ruin a brake drum using the torch. out of round now. So I'm not fond of that. You can also crack cast iron by heating it locally. That's why it should be heated up before it is welded, and cooled down buried a heated up basket of sand

Did my rewiring with the scheme on my lap inside the car. I did change the wires one by one, putting in the new one when I took out the old one. So this way no mistake could be made. Took me (by easy doing) 1 week. For 6V, I checked the wire sizes with the high standards (UL-listing) they use in office machines. I did find out that UL prescribes thicker wires for the high currents then used in the goodolday's. I went to twice the thickness of the wires, using modern plastic wires for safety reasons. On the main wire from the battery to the car inside I used 6 square wire (that's metric). The original wire was not allowed by UL-standard (wonder if much cars did burn because of overheating of the wires). Because copper will corrode over time the resistance will grow, so also the heat in the wire. Second, 6V will give more lost of volts when you get further away from your battery then a 12V system. Going to the rear of the car, what will be left when it reaches the bulb? So I took twice as thicker then Walter put in. Also running return wires, so the return current does not run through rusty metal joints. My 2 cents.

Shel, Good site, I did find the golden button, See all vehicles this product fits ....Gess what, more then 100 types, included my car... and for dodge going up to 1993. In my village there is an American car parts store. They usualy have parts form early '70 up. They probably have it. And also thanx for the advise on the seal. I'll put a hole in the gasket. Still wonder why they didn't put a cover over it so it is closed. I gess there can get dirt into the gearbox from the bell housing. So still thinking if I should cover it, but then from the inside of the bell housing, if there is any space overthere......

I have a half gone paper seal between the tranny and bell housing. I'm gonna cut a new one form gasket paper myself. If this should seal the hole, I'm covered for the leak. Doesn't explain why the hole is there?

If you use the engine stand, rather then on a bench, it is a lot easier to keep the engine clean. You can top it over in a few seconds. However the point of gravity is not even with the turning point of the stand. So in my case with a heavier V8 engine, when full assembled I will use a crane attached to it when I top it over, just for safety. Just wonder why they built those stands like that. It's easy to engineer it right with the point of gravity about inline with the turning axle of the stand.

Does nobody know where to get a new rear transmission seal? Not NOS leather seal but a modern rubber oil seal? Could it be Napa has them?

Before I want to paint my transmission I have to solve a leak in the REAR TRANSMISSION SEAL, in the pic at arrow 1. When I looked it up at Andy Bernbaum (not a guy I want to buy from) he lists the seal I need (standard transmission plymouth 1955) as an item used in standard transmissions from 1946 to 1956. See here: http://www.oldmoparts.com/t.htm Can anyone tell me where I can find a new modern one (the NOS old leather seal will probably leak as well. Other transmission question: In the pic pointed at 2, there is a hole in the casting where it faces the bell housing. Oil from the transmission can get out here. Is this right? or does it need a plug. Edwin.