DutchEdwin

TJ, Yes, there is one more thing, let the engine warm up before you take any conclusion on the readings, but you probably knew that.

Hi Ed, Great looking car your friend has. Is he on the forum also? I would like to get in touch with him to exchange experience on car problems. Sadly, going for a meet up with the cars would be difficult. The big pond is in between us. Edwin.

oeps...Just a little to exited, have to do the timing and carburetor adjustment before the ride. Have it now in 4 TDC, Should do it as a start.

You were all right. Was a very very very dirty carburetor:eek:. Took my overhaul kit for the carb. and the digi camera. Took is apart, cleaned it with thinner, replaced the float needles and all gaskets. Adjusted every thing that had to be adjusted (float adjustment was way off). Put it together (glad I took those lots of pictures). Mounted it on the car today and started without priming the carb! It took 30 long exiting seconds and the engine started, ran like it was oiled with butter. Never heard her running that nice All the meters read: oil: ok, electricity: little charging; temperature: rising to normal. fuel, empty.....have to put some new cork on the float, no big deal. Next step: check the break cylinders for any leak because they have been standing for many years and take here for a test drive this weekend, to the gas station . Thank you all for helping.

Greg, that will be to much fuel than, making sense the engine will not idle because of to much fuel. I did all the carburetor adjustments from the manual, but I'll check on the adjustment of the needle again. How do I know there is to much pressure from the fuel pump. Not aware it can be influenced by something.

I agree with Ed. Have the cylinders measured. When you go on to have a rebuilt, you will probably run into a lot of thing that need replacement. Egge is a good place for a complete kit. My advice, get a manual. Take the engine apart. Label every part and put all the bolts in labeled bags. Take more pictures than your computer can store (when putting it back together you always miss that one picture) and buy the new parts you need. Get the block cleaned in a shop and check every channel and corner for left sludge and clean it. A lot is written on this site on how to do it. Welcome and have fun.

I started my engine for the second time today. Got it running for about 7 minutes to warm up but couldn't take my foot from the gas pedal because it would stall immediately, cold or warm no difference. When I looked at the carburetor I saw it was whole wet with fuel. I ran with air filter on and a cork gasket between the filter and carburetor. On each side there are two pipes sticking out (do not know there purpose). In the chambers of these pipes there was a paddle of fuel accumulated (see the arrow in the first picture). Does anyone know what is wrong here? On the stalling of the engine I guess the timing is wrong (set advance at 2 TDC because of modern fuel, book says should be 4TDC). I'll set it to 4 TDC next time and see if it will run at idle. I'm glad the fuel pump and automatic choke are working properly

The fuel line inside the tank from the pick up filter was broken. To repair this I drilled out the out going fuel line (the nut to clamp the line was frozen). Drilled it 0,01 inch larger then 5/16. This will allow solder to flow in the space between the line and the hole when soldering. Took a copper brake line of 5/16. Did bend it in a way that when the line rests on the bottom, in the middle of the tank in driving direction. The end of the line will be about 7/16 above the bottom so no water etc. will be picked up from the bottom. I left the tube open at the end, so not squeezing the end and drill it open from the side. By keeping the end open you are able to free it when it gets clogged in the future. (see picture). Took the tank the the radiator shop and had it fixed. Ex cleaning was $50 for labour. The cleaning was free in my case because they promised to do fix and cleaning in 3 days, took them 2 week.

Yes I will. That is, is if there is no voice from the dark . The only things that can happen are the fuel pump and regulator. Last time when I started the engine it ran for two minutes. After a check I discovered the stationary screw didn't touch the lever . So to low rpm's caused it to shut down . Not enough time to check if the fuel pump is ok. When I need these parts it will probably take one or two weeks to get here. Still time enough. No worries.

Got my tank back from the shop. They soldered a new tube in and attached it to the bottom. When they opened up the tank.......well they they the cleaning trick because it was necessary:D. Gave the tank a layer of paint and it is back in the car now. Hood is back on, front bumpers mounted. Checked my speedometer and lubed it. I can turn it by hand now to move the needle. All that's left is attach the speedo cable to the gearbox and fill the tank with gas. Hope the fuel pump and regulator are ok. If I have some time left I'll be starting the engine this week and do the timing and mixture adjustments. So fingers crossed nothing no "voice from the dark will tell me to smile" to keep me from driving next week.

I work as a mechanical engineer on the design of office printers for 19 years. Most of the work is in plastic parts and fine mechanics. The only dirt I get on my fingers during this job is toner or keyboard dirt . B.t.w., I did a quick scan on all the jobs....and if I didn't miss a post, I didn't see anyone that worked for a bank. Don't they like classic cars, or are they afraid to admit

Thanks, I've read the tread earlier posted but haven't heard from anyone used it before. Your experience....this was what I guessed it would be, great stuff but a little hard to handle. I'll go for the great item in it and deal with the how to handle I'll go and buy a bottle of ATF and acetone tomorrow.

does he have a website?

Has any one tried this "new" house made brew of 50-50 mix between ATF and acetone on rusty frozen bolts and nuts to see if it is THE BEST fluid to get bolts loose (aside from heating them up). I want to get 3 bolts out of the hood by next week in order to get it back on. As I do not have ATF in my shop I'll have to buy a new bottle of ATF and a bottle of acetone. Would like to no if it works.

When I'm right, spelling is just a understanding in how to write things complicated. Like John said, the line is now plain Dutch , no problem for me to read, although you still need all the letters to be there. If you write it like in Finland, just write in as you speak it, phonetic, and there are no spelling problems .

Sorry for the delay in reply. The thing is we live on the other side of the pond where US cars are rare. Also the spare parts even the ones mostly available at NAPA. So if you do have a trick it would be nice, otherwise Roberts will have to do. Thanks, Edwin.

I'm posting this for a friend who had an Edsel He is in need of new vacuum hoses for the wiper motor. Anny suggestions for replacement, other then Roberts wiper motor vacuum hose P317 at $0.75/ft? Thanks.

Joe, After a few years of hoping, planning, failing and getting there to start the engine....you're really going to like the smell of burned oil and exhaust fumes. Spring is in the air, so let the clothes hang out in the garden after you're finished and let them fresh up by mornings bloom. Then smoke them again . But I do not plan to run the engine that much in the garage. I would need a longgggggg pipe as my garage is placed between two houses. If the wind is in the wrong spot, as it most is, it will blow right right back into the garage. Or I'll smoke the back yard which will result in angry family members enjoying the spring sun. But thanks anyway. I'll enjoy the above written method

Finally got the engine running this evening. I primed the carburetor. Have a jerry can in front of the bumper as I still have to fix the line in the fuel tank attached to the filter inside. Drawn fuel with a vacuum pump through the line that connects to the carburetor and turned the ignition key..................She fired right up. Man what a lot of smoke for the tale pipe. All the oil I lubricated the cylinders with to keep the pistons moving smooth. Even had to shut down the engine and leave the garage as the wind blew all the smoke back in . The engine will stall after a few minutes. I think the fuel pump is ok but will check that by disconnecting the fuel line, prime the carburetor, run the engine and see if there comes enough fuel. The next thing is to adjust the carburetor. Looked at the idle adjusting screw and saw it was not touching the throttle lever. so probebly too low idle speed. Should be a quick fix. .

Jim, Thanks for the info, I looked in The Netherlands. Called every store in a big circle around my house, They all came up with the expensive one. I did find the same one cheaper on amazon.com. I think it could turn out to be cheaper to import one from the US then buy here.

I went for the vacuum pump set like Jim posted. The only one available is an expensive one (€110,=) but then it is not a plastic pump but one made out of brass. The inexpensive one is just not available here in the shops. I'll consider if I should order the one from JC Whitney. It all depends on FedEx and customs cost if it it worth getting in from the US. B.t.w. Jim, do you know if this gun from JC draws a good vacuum (almost to 0)? I like the idea of injecting the fuel into the float chamber through the vent tube. Great idea. I'll look for that tube on my carb. Makes things much easier to start up. When she runs, I'll let you know. Guess it will be next Sunday. I'm out shopping for the proper tools. Syringe are a standard tool in my shop for oiling and cleaning purpose. So no problem here.

Is what your are saying... the cranking speed is to low for the pump to draw gas? How about when the line is full when the car did start. Will it start up then? I do not have that kind of a vacuum pump. Where do you put it? I could try a rubber boat pump, on the suction port, attach to the fuel line that enters the carb, with a small jar in between so the fuel does not enter the pump. Then stop and reconnect the line to the carb. and start. I did inject fuel into the line using one of those big injection things they use in hospital (do not know the English name for it), high volume one. But then I always have the line from the jerry can empty when I did put it back into the can.

My worst car was my wife's car when we were dating. A 1985 Hyundai Pony (Korean brand). It's a little bigger then the Honda Civic. It consumed a lot of fuel and weight almost 1.5 times the civic. Took me 1 year to figure out what the carb. problem was as the dealer couldn't. When that was fixed, I couldn't keep up on rust repairs. It was as slow as a turtle in race mode. On rainy day's it was almost impossible to drive as all windows were blinded with fog. Then fan's where blowing in the wrong direction I guess Then I switched to GM I bought a 1985 Opel Kadett. On problem at all. Then traded it for a 1983 Opel Record as we wanted a bigger car. Loved that one, drove it for 8 years. Got rid if it when it was 20 years old. Just because we needed a bigger car, a new Ford Transit, European van. Still driving it, with great pleasure. As for some of you complaining on Ford, must be the US-branch . The European branch is very well since they introduced the Ford Mondeo. That was in 1995 I think.