Eneto-55

I should have told in what area of the engine harness I found broken wires - the reason I mentioned strand count is that the broken wires were in the areas between the engine and the firewall, or other places where they crossed from the engine to the body. That is why I did the strand count, because I was assuming that the damage was due to flexing. But the harness wrapping in those areas, and also the wire insulation itself, that was all very stiff, from the heat, I would suppose. So any shields you can fabricate would probably be a good idea.

That coincides with what I found when I unwrapped the engine wire harness from the 93 T&C I scrapped out - various wires were broken, or so nearly severed that contact might have been intermittent at best. (In comparison to the wire on my P15, the strand count for a similar gauge wire is much higher on the old vehicle. I wonder when vehicle manufacturers started using lower strand-count wire, and if it was a slow transition.)

This info might be in the book in the download section (Plymouth Revised Condensed Master Parts List D-12678), but I never saw it there. (That's the book given to me this past Christmas, when I put the book Standard Parts List D-11171 on my Christmas list.) Then I bought the book (on ebay, rather poorly described) Plymouth Parts List Series P15 D-12198 (also on ebay, and so vaguely described that I thought that IT was the elusive D-11171). Anyway this latter 'mistake' has give me the official conclusive answer to my questions about the size of the PLYMOUTH hinge pins. (Plymouthy Adams had long ago stated that the Dodge book gave the size as 5/16", but I still wondered if the hinge tongues on all of the cars that people were reporting on, after having measured the hinge pins as 11/32" (like mine, which I measured with a micrometer, as I think most others had also done), had really all been reamed out. Apparently so. It must have been a very common problem to have sagging doors after some years of opening & closing them. So here is the part of the page for hinge pins, in the Parts List book that is specifically (and only) for the P15 model: (I hope this helps others who are still wondering about this question.)

I recently bought one of those same books, thinking I was getting the D-11171 manual. The descriptions on epay are often not accurate, using titles that are not what is actually on the cover. Anyway, this one is specifically just for the P15, so it doesn't have all of the stuff for the earlier models, to confuse the reader. (Or at least that's how I'm trying to "put a positive spin on it", since I now have both of them.) I actually started in on thinking I "need" this book just to confirm the hinge pin size on the Plymouths..... But I still don't have a shop to work in, and now we're doing major repairs and remodeling on my wife's dad's house. (He passed away 4 years ago now.) It started out as just somewhat major remodeling - moving some weight bearing walls, that sort of thing. But now we're finding lots of rotted out walls, with LOTS of rodent 'show' inside the walls and about everywhere. (I told my wife's cousin's husband some years back that you have to 'think like a mouse' while you are building if you want to keep them out, but he said it's impossible. I haven't had an opportunity to try, so I still disagree. But having an attached garage does make it nearly impossible, unless you really concentrate on keeping the attics of the house and garage completely blocked off in between Sorry for going on about my problems here..)

The only mention I found about steel camshafts was in the topic called “Clothespins not what they used to be?”, where ... On 7/5/2010 at 5:41 PM, Plymouthy Adams said: Only a steel camshaft will bend, cast iron will break there was a number of steel cams used. The suffix S will be affixed to those engine serial number that indeed came stock with a steel camshaft. The cam bearing supports as close as they are to each other would petty much prevent any bending. A cast cam shaft that is laid at an upright angle would have a tendency to warp due to shift. Only by v-blocking will you be able to detect and measure the runout.

Recently purchased another P15 manual, and this Parts Info Bulletin was stuck in the engine section. The issue is steel vs cast iron engine parts.

I know I'm probably way behind the times on this, but .... Well, I looked it up on-line. Imron doesn't appear to have a chrome paint.

LC, Sorry for the loss of your brother and sister.

I realize that this is a rather old thread, but wondering if there are good sources for a superseded part number reference. I'm not looking of any particular part at the moment. I received the Master Parts List book (issue D-12678) for a Christmas present, and I'm in the process of creating a spreadsheet of the information on pages 444-482. This is the book available for download here on the forum. The book I had actually put on my "Christmas Wish List was a different one, and I HAVE already used the PDF download one, but in the past I was looking for a certain item for which I only had the Part type Code and wanted to find the part number, and since that PDF is not searchable, I had to look through all of those pages (and either it isn't in there, or I missed it). So while this is very tedious work and at the rate I'm going it will take me until June or July to complete it. (I first tried doing an OCR scan, but it's perhaps more work to correct scanning errors, take out all of those periods between columns, add in missed spaces, etc. than to do it manually.) Anyway, after I get all of the data entered out of this book, I will add a description for each part, and would like to add another column for matching new part numbers for superseded parts. I think I've seen something like that here before, but it didn't come up in a search. (I'm not the sharpest guy for doing searches, so maybe I didn't do the search right.) No rush on this, and if there is already something that easily gives that information, I won't "re-invent the wheel". Thanks. I may also eventually scan this entire book, because I have somewhat poor eye sight, and like to be able to zoom in on the illustrations w/o them breaking up due to the screen printing method that was used when these books were published. But at over 480 pages, it is no easy task, as anyone who has done this type of thing will already know. So this note is also a big thank you to all those who have provided scanned materials pertaining to our vehicles.

Yes, I had intended to mention that the odometer is driven by a worm gear on the shaft you see along the side. My speedometer is like the one on the right in Don Coatney's photo. (Since I didn't save the text from the post where he put up that photo, I don't know what that other one is out of.) (About the transmission gear, I think I recall that you could easily switch it out for a different size, to match the other variables. So I suppose then that if you installed a transmission in a 46 P15 out of a 48 model, your speedometer (and odometer) would be off. Or were the 15" tires on the later P15s the same diameter as the 16" tires on the early P15s?)

That round drum sort of deal - the part that sits inside of it - Is that a magnet? I looked at mine this morning (still disassembled) and I know that there is some 'slippage' in that area, some resistance to just peg the speed arrow/hand over all the way. EDIT: If I can find the posts from Don Coatney that I got the photo above from, I would like to create a thread just about speedometer repair, and then either put in links to what he said about the photos he had linked to (and that I had copied), and also any other information about this subject that I can find. I don't know if it would work, but I think I'd ask people to not go off of the topic. (Don was a great 'Post Bomber' - like a 'photo bomber', but purposely trying to drag a discussion off-topic. Maybe he wasn't doing it on purpose, but it sure seemed like it to me. It really bugged the living daylights out of me, until I managed to do it to him once.... Maybe he never noticed, I don't know.)

I have 3 other photos I copied from Don Coatney, but didn't want to load down the forum, especially if they are still on here somewhere. I also cannot figure out where my own pictures are. I thought I'd put them up here, but I think I found the thread where I talked about the caked white stuff that was all over the 'clock spring' on mine. [That was in this thread:

Here's a photo I saved from here on the forum at some time in the past - courtesy of Don Coatney. (I have photos of my own, but not sure where they are right now.) Don had lots of photo stored on some outside service, with just links to them on the forum. So those links are all now non-functional.

Sorry, I guess it was a poor joke. I should have put in a smiley face or something.

Don't hit the gas too hard with that load - those 2x4's won't hold if you do a wheelie...

As Happy 46R suggests from his experience on his Dodge, the clutch cover (pan) can be removed with the engine in place, to service the clutch. It is the same on the Plymouth. (In fact, I have not yet installed the clutch cover, having left it off to be able to "easily" rotate the crank with a large screw driver from under the car.) If you (or a friend) has an old unusable transmission, you can remove the shaft to be used as what we called "a stabbing shaft", to align the clutch disk before installing the transmission. If it easily slips out of place when installing the transmission, the clutch pressure plate may be weak, and in need of being rebuilt. It would be a good idea to get it tested while it's out anyway. You can guess as to how I know this....)

I'm curious what most forum members think about painting the bumpers body color. If my car was black, I'd feel more inclined to do that. My 46 is Balfour Green. Or, how would it look with either a dark green - like the Kenwood Green, or just black? The leather on the armrests were dark green, and I've considered painting the dash and window moldings that color as well. (IF I cannot find a way to get a close approximation of the original wood grain.) (It seems to me that sometimes it's better to do something obviously different than to do something that just looks like a "failed attempt" to make it like it was originally.) It will be some years before I get to the bumpers, so maybe there will be some new technology by then. (I don't imagine that tri-ply chrome will get cheaper....) Wrap in it thin stainless?

Is there room to get a portable spot welder into there?

No, not installed yet. I started this restoration soon after I bought the car in March of 1980. Worked on it for about a year and a half, then "life happened". Met my wife, moved to here community in Ohio (I'm from Oklahoma), then we moved to Brazil, where we did Bible translation work for 18 years. Then after we moved back to the States, the car remained in my Dad's shop until 2018. It's "parked" in one side of our garage, but I don't have a shop yet, so no room to work on it. I'm starting to wonder now if I will ever finish it. Our house is a split level, and we recently bought my wife's Dad's house (He passed away 4 years ago last September), and I spend as much time as I can working on renovation there. (I keep finding more rot, and wonder if it's all worth it.) Back to the Plymouth. (Sorry about the "sob story".) There is a rubber casting factory just down the road a piece here, and I will see if they can make a piece that matches this profile, but has the metal strip cast in it, as well as the larger corners. That might take some guess work, because the pieces I still have of those areas are in very bad condition. Might be too expensive, in which case I'll try to fill in the gap with some other type of rubber, and somehow bond this material to the metal strips. One thing is, this stuff is still in good shape, even though it is now over 40 years old. [The original was, of course (from what I could tell, and as I remember it), made all in one piece, all of the way around the door. If I can get something made, I would extend it up the door a bit, both front and rear, then bond it to the weather stripping I already have. I'm also still searching for windlacing that has the wire mesh in it, to stiffen it so that it actually does what it was designed to do - seal against the doors to cut wind noise. Everything I have seen in the last years is just there for looks. I had bought a roll of stuff back in the early 80's, but it has deteriorated in the box. It was sold as walk-in refrigerator door seal, and has the wire mesh in it. But now it's crumbling. 75 1982 hard-earned dollars down the tubes.)

Here's what I got, but I don't remember where, because it was back in either 80 or 81. Obviously I didn't purchase it on-line, but they are still in business. They list 2 versions of the number on my box: SKU 4675 and SKU 4675B I cannot tell what the difference is, and I don't see dimensions listed, either. Au-Ve-Co Catalog Other shapes of weatherstripping: Weatherstripping Shapes

I haven't looked it up to see what they are offering, but I'm not aware of anyone who is producing the bottom strip, with the metal strip molded in and the larger corners, without which I suspect there will be wind noise. (I haven't looked recently - maybe it's just the leading corner that is especially wider than the rest.)

The plating shop I worked in (back in the late 70's - early 80's) was an aviation oriented shop. It's still there in Tulsa, not far from the air port. United Plating Works. There were three areas of the operation, the machine shop, where they milled down (used) cranks for prop planes, then they were plated up to specs in the chrome shop. After that the journals were taped up and we glass bead blasted them, then hot tin plated them (I suspect just so they wouldn't rust on the shelf back at the air craft shops). Those cranks gave a guy my size a real work-out - most were 75 pounds, and you couldn't allow them get against your apron or the plating would be messed up. (I'm pushing 70, and I still weigh only around 135, at 5' 10 1/2" in height. I was always the brunt of the skinny jokes: 'Chicken bones', If you turn side ways in the shower you don't get wet', 'You have to jump around in the shower to get wet', 'You can't go outside on a windy day', I heard them all. Now I just say "I'm not under-weight, I'm just over height.") I worked a few projects that were decorative chrome, mostly pot metal parts, a lot of which were the cranks for fishing reels. That metal was quad-plated - zinc-copper-nickel-chrome. (Aluminum parts got the same treatment, always zinc first.) But mostly I did bright tin, hot tin (which they told me is 'food quality'), hot nickel (mostly on oil field valves), bright nickel, copper, and a lot of cad. The boss in my section was a great guy to work for, and he worked right along side of us most days. (Five employees had scraped together the bread to buy the shop 20 years before I started there.) Mr Steiger let me stay after quitting time and work on my own stuff, paint stripping, glass bead and aluminum-oxide blasting, plating, the works - all at no charge at all. It was hard work in that business, and at first I wanted to tell him I wouldn't wok a horse like that, but I got used to it, and yeah, a great guy. (He offered to sell me his 68 Chrysler New Yorker - that was one I shouldn't have let get away, but I did.)

Yeah, power coat is lots harder than the average wet coat paint, and that also makes it hard(er) to get it off with sand blasting as well. And you cannot feather the stuff, either, at least not the paint we were using. (I tried.) My attitude is that the main advantage of powder coating goes to the manufacturer. Paint it, bake it, and unless it's really heavy steel it cools down fast, and so it can be very quickly packaged.