Eneto-55

I'm FB friends with him. (Our religious & cultural backgrounds are very similar, and he knows some of my family in the Fresno-Clovis area.) They are up in Maine with their son & family right now. Heading back to CA soon, I think.

In my experience, the guide bolts were for installing the trannie. We always just got under it on a creeper, pulled it back, and set it down on your stomach, then out from under the car. (Going back in, it's handy to have a "stabbing shaft" from an old transmission to get the clutch lined up first, then the guide bolts should allow for getting it all the way in straight w/o knocking the clutch disk out of place.)

Yeah, and it's around 3,600 miles ahead of mine!

This morning, after posting these questions, I did some tests with acetone on various color scraps I had from a rocker (chair) manufacturer. Some, the ones that had more grain patterns, appear to have been dyed a base color, then 'painted' with the finish color. On those, the acetone made the top coat peel off, like a thin coating of rubber. The others (with a smoother finish) sort of lightened up a bit, but not back to what I would say is natural leather color. I also did one test with alcohol, but it didn't seem to make much difference in the color - just left it wet, as you said here. (In both cases, I dipped narrow strips into the liquid, then wiped it with a rag.)

I mentioned this before, in someone else's topic about arm rests, that the arm rests in my 46 Special DeLuxe were covered in leather, in a darker color that complemented the body color. Starting a new topic in order to be able to put in specific tags for the topic. Has anyone ever seen a color chart for the interior leather parts? Maybe one that showed which leather colors were used with which body colors? I think that the only real leather in my 46 was the arm rest covers, and what remains of it is pretty dried out, and probably darkened by dirt and natural body oils and sweat. (Oklahoma car, so it would have been subjected to a lot of the latter.) I have looked through hundreds of leather color charts at a couple of furniture stores here in our area, and haven't seen any green color close to what I think the original was. Also thinking of trying to dye some leather on my own. Has anyone used acetone or alcohol to strip the existing dye from leather?

I'm rather off the topic here, but I recently bought new snow tires for my wife's car. I had intended to buy them from the shop where I got them mounted on the rims and balanced, but there was considerable cost difference, so I bought them from Tire Rack. (The guys in the shop didn't act mad, but I figure there's a higher price for the work if you bring them in from elsewhere, but that's understandable, and no problem for me.) Anyway, my question has to do with the date codes. I have no idea if the local shop would typically have newer, or older tires than an on-line place like Tire Rack. Anyway, one of the the tires is dated for the first week of August 2022, and the others for the last week of August, 2022. Does that sound typical, or do you all think I would have gotten more recently made tires at my local tire shop? (We don't put a lot of miles on this car, especially in the winter, and I actually haven't put them on yet - have an extra set of wheels.)

I had not ever heard of this type of machine. Just now watched a short video demonstration. But as far as lasers are concerned, a guy I know bought a small laser (as I recall, the bed on his is about 16" square) that would run in the same price range. I don't know, however, what the comparable thickness capability would be between the two options. The gasket that I was referring to is fairly thick cork material, and I wonder if this machine could do thick stuff like that. (I should measure the thickness of the old one.) I suppose thinner material would do just as well, but just curious - the video I saw didn't really show what prevents the material from being pushed out of position during the cutting process. How did they do it "back then"? Was this sort of thing cut out on a stamping machine, with full-size dies?

re: having the gasket laser cut: Yes, I suppose so, but this one is pretty complex, and would require quite a bit of time to do that way. (Of course I spent a whole bucket load of time designing it, more time than it would have required to cut one out by hand. I didn't anticipate how long it would take, and I'm a stubborn person....) Actually, a person could also just use some silicone caulk, and then lay a film of thin plastic over it to smooth it to a consistent thickness before assembly. (So it doesn't stick so hard that the gauges cannot be removed later w/o destroying it.)

I finally found my own photos, but I cannot tell for sure if I bent any tabs back, or not. I will need to look at the actual parts tomorrow. (All of that is up the street in a rented space.) I also found the CAD files for the main cluster gasket, but I don't have the program installed on this computer. I started by trying to piece the different fragments together, then scanning them. After reconstructing it as best I could, I drew in the missing areas, then cut out a printed copy to compare to the instrument cluster housing. I should have gotten a better CAD program, but after a long time, I was able to get it into a 2D drawing. I was going to do the laser test right away, but then tried to think of what other gaskets I could drop into the center of the gasket - to do as many different gaskets in a single 'burn'. As I have sometimes said, "My work gets in the way of my hobby." (And now we are remodeling my wife's parents' old house, to eventually move there, where I will have room to build a shop. The house has conventional framed roof - ridge board & rafters, and we wanted to take out some weight-bearing walls, so I've been building overhead beams in the attic, from which to suspend the ceiling. That's all done now, and I knocked out the walls, and nothing has fallen or sagged yet.... I probably have actually over-built it, but that way I figure I'm safe. Anyway, it's also keeping me from working on my P15.)

Like you, I already had the temp gauge out. I removed the others, as well as the speedometer. Then, seeing the poor condition of the gaskets, and wanting to repaint the inside of the instrument cluster case, I decided to pull it apart. I think I had already seen Don Coatney's photos before that. I haven't searched for them on the site, but it's possible that his photos are no longer there. (He had his photos hosted elsewhere, and just linked to them here. I don't know if you've read much of his comments on the forum, but he passed away already some years ago, and then those links were lost. If his photos are not available anymore, I do have copies. At some point I realized that many of the things I thought would always be available, as long as the internet lasts have disappeared - entire websites, while the real trash on the internet seems to survive forever. So I started making copies.) I'll see if I can find my own photos - I suspect now they are on another older computer I have here. The most complicated gasket was originally cork, and I have some sheets of that. I have done business with a company that has a laser, and I want to have them do a test, to see if they can cut cork w/o it burning. The gasket between the front bezel and the glass is some sort of heavy cardboard (not corrugated cardboard, more like heavy card stock.)

I did that on mine, but I don't think I had to actually bend open those crimps - I think I could just pry it open with a small flat screw driver. Just don't remember. (Still have mine apart, too. One of the numbered wheels on the odometer has a spot where the paint was flaked off , and I swapped them around to make that one come up only after a long time. Was also thinking of putting small turn signal indicator lights into the face of the speedometer, but haven't decided for sure yet. Want to repaint the inside, as well, and need to make new gaskets.) There are some photos here on the site someplace where Don Coatney did repair work on his. I also have taken photos of mine, but maybe those are not on this computer - cannot find them right now.

OK. Your description of direct vs indirect really confirms that our 2019 Honda uses the indirect approach. Recently had a tire low warning. Checked all of the tires, none were more than a pound or 2 different, yet the message persisted. Then I read someplace that some spare tires have a sensor in them as well, and it could be the spare that is tripping the warning. So I checked it, and yeah, it was well below the super high pressure recommendation. But no change - the warning is there every time we start the vehicle. According to the manual, you're supposed to drive the car for at least a half an hour at speeds between 30 and 60 MPH, with no stops longer than 45 seconds. (How do you make a 40 second stop while still between 30 & 60 MPH?!?) We do not have that kind of road conditions around here, and so it's still popping up. We did make a trip up to Cleveland since then, but that would be over 60 MPH. I suspect now that there is a problem with some sensor or another, and it's just annoying, because we seldom drive anyplace that meets those requirements. (Our 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan has the type that just says a tire is low. But at least after I regulate all of them, it DOES go away.)

I agree - I prefer the even older tech - no TPMS, no ABS. Leave it to me to know when & how much to brake, and let me monitor the tire pressure myself. I DO like Cruise, however, on long trips. (Gives my right leg & foot a break, and keeps me from speeding w/o knowing it.)

Now I'm REALLY confused. Not from you all on here, but I was doing some searching over on the Honda forum, where I participate a bit. (The Admins are rather snarky for my taste. If something has been discussed before, the thread gets locked straight-a-way. If they think that the answer is lurking somewhere on the forum, and it probably is, but finding it can be a chore - they smart off at the poor new-comer.) So I didn't want to post a question there, and just get told off. So, the search brings up a couple of old threads (and locked, of course) that say that Honda quit using TPMS devices after the 2013 year. They say: indirect TPMS sensors which uses the ABS/VSA system Then another says: No sensors required. 2013 was the last year for that system. In a more recent discussion, a guy asks: I have a 2019 CRV Touring. Trying to get ready for this vehicle's first winter and was wondering on the following: 1. Can I install snow tires without TPMS? Will i get an annoying sound in the cockpit if I do this? I know in the ford fusion they make some sound to prompt the driver. Toyota's usually just prompt with a blinking inidcator. Not sure for CRVs? 2. Can I install a 235/65 R17 tires? The OEM is 235/60R18? 18"s are very pricey. The answer given is: There are no TPMS sensors in the wheels, so you won't have a problem, there's a recalibration procedure on the screen that's very easy. Then another guy chimes in with: Yep. As @ondarvr says, the TPMS system in newer CR-Vs bases its calculations on the amount of revolutions per wheel, and if one wheel differs from the others, the system determines that the tire pressure is low. My comments: - I thought all modern vehicles had those TPMS devices. - His tire choice is exactly what I chose, and have on order. (Same original tire & wheel size, same smaller wheel with same higher sidewall tire.) - Never heard of this revolutions per wheel comparison approach before.

Returning to this topic, now nearly a year later. I ended up keeping the 2009 Dodge Journey that was 'replaced' by this off-brand vehicle (2019 Honda CR-V AWD), so put off getting the snow tires for the 'new to us' vehicle, and just left the 'new' car in the garage, & drove the Journey last winter instead. I would prefer to do the same again, or believe the Honda salesman who told us that the AWD CR-V doesn't NEED Blizzaks to survive in the snow. But you all know, the happy wife deal. Now over the last year I cleaned up the alloy wheels I had purchased. (Sanded them, especially where salt corrosion had gotten under the paint, then primed & painted.) I wasn't planning to install the TPMS stems, but I've since been told that this vehicle monitors these sensors and that the braking system will not work correctly w/o them. (By my son-in-law, a real Honda fan.) I know that I should post this question on the Honda forum, but I'll just get that "The vehicle was designed for TPMS use, so you better install them." I'm asking here because I want a response from people who can think outside the corporate approved box. (It's a What would you do? question.)

Well, I once overheard an Amish business owner say that he wished he had started his business when he was 16 - because he knew everything then....

I wouldn't buy new tires at any kind of normal price unless I was pretty sure I would have the car on the road within 4 or 5 years. I should do a test fit, but a friend who was traveling through Ohio (from Texas) had a flat, and decided that it was a good time to replace his 16" temporary tire with a full-size wheel & tire, and he left the temp tire & wheel with me. It is the same bolt pattern, from a 2nd or 3rd gen MoPar minivan. My 46 is still sitting on the tires that were on it when I left it in storage in 83. I don't know if the tubes actually still hold air, or if the tires are just so stiff, but they don't look flat, or even low. The front left is a 6 or 8 ply mud tire, so it's got to be really stiff. I think if you have a trailer that the tires would also fit on, I would try one of those for fit, then put the older ones off of your trailer onto the car, and put the new ones on your trailer. Or even rotate them onto the trailer from time to time, so you get the benefit of their useful life. (I don't know about trailer axles, but that temporary spare my friend gave me even has the guide hole in it.) What is it about trailer tires that means they are limited to 50 MPH? Rubber quality? Just the fact that they are bias ply? I've often wondered. About DeSoto & Chrysler: I didn't know that they had a different lug pattern. After buying a 62 Chrysler Newport in 66, about the first thing my Dad did was to put the 15" wheels from the 53 DeSoto on it. It was still that way when it was "put out to pasture", December of 77.

I think this can actually happen more in really heavy traffic, especially after some hours of driving time. The closeness of the other vehicles, all traveling along at more or less the same speed, can create the sensation that one is not really moving that fast. I experienced something similar to this some years ago, when cleaning the gutters on our house, up on the second story roof. We had a couple of large Maple trees close along that side of the house at that time (since blown down in storms), and the branches were just up over the edge of the roof. That green "wall" right next to me gave me a sense of safety, when in reality it was a false security - those small branches would not have helped in the least if I had slipped off the edge. I found that I had to be extra careful in that area of the roof, to off-set that false sensation of safety.

What I see too often on the freeway (where I seldom drive anymore) is "city drivers" who take their city habits onto the freeway - going twice as fast, which means twice as dangerous. Our current 'family car' is one of those that has the, what do they call it? - lane mitigation? - deal, where if you have the cruise on, and someone pulls in front of you, the car will throw on the brakes, to regain the "safe following distance". If traffic is heavy, fine, merge right in front of me - I'm not running the cruise in settings like that anyway. But when the passing lane is clear way up in front, and there is no one tailing the vehicle that is passing, just stay over there, at least until I can be seen in the inside rear view mirror. (That used to be the way to know when it is acceptable to merge, at least back in Oklahoma.)

It would be interesting to know how recently that style of seat cover was manufactured. I do not know, but would guess into the 60's at least. It would also be interesting to know how the fabric design changed over the years. (Wish I had pictures of the interior of the 48 Dodge my folks had until around 1960 or 61 - when I was 5 or 6. They wouldn't be color photos anyway, but a person could see how large the plaid pattern was, something I would guess was part of the change over the years.)

The new old stock seat covers are, of course, "authentic", but I would just look at the pictures for fabric choice suggestions. I would think that they will crack or tear rather soon, if you could even get them unfolded, installed, and wrinkle free. Obviously I could be wrong, but I'd rather use new fabric. (But maybe nothing of that design can be found. Not ready for seat covers yet - by a long shot.)

Yeah, so if you mess up, you don't have to resent having paid for the work, and if you want to kick someone's beehind, the one that did it is right there, handy.

I wonder how much force is actually required to gradually reshape the piece. I have an arbor press that I had custom built by a machine shop in this area. I started with a drawing from an old Mechanics Illustrated (or Popular Science? Not sure now) magazine, and made some changes myself, and then the machinist also made some design changes. It also uses a hydraulic jack, like yours, and it can be tedious to operate that all, in comparison to an actual press that has easy to operate controls. So I'm wondering if a manually operated leverage type press would provide the needed force. Then suspend the work piece with bungee cords, so it can easily conform to the relative position of the press. Then work slowly back and forth across the work area, little by little. But it might require some sort of cam (or gear-driven) set up to get the necessary force to actually move the metal. I am thinking of that type of system for two reasons, ease of applying and releasing the pressure, and the 'feedback' you get from a hand operated process, letting you know how much relative force you are applying at each spot. Just thinking out loud here.

I guess you just pull it around with the winch....

I never got a caustic soda burn, but did get some minor acid burns over the years I worked there. There was one guy who could stick his bare hands right down into the cyanide (cadmium plating tank) to readjust parts on the rack w/o any burns. Then to neutralize it, he would stick his hands down into the muriatic acid tank. Another guy got some sort of acid burn, either muriatic or nitric, and just put a bandage over it, and didn't tell the boss. Acid forms a sort of oil layer over the burn, and keeps on eating flesh underneath. You cannot wash it off with water and normal soap. By the time the boss found out the acid had eaten its way out from under the bandage, and he was kept off the line until it could heal. You can guess that the boss was not thrilled. So if I thought I had an acid burn, I would scrub it hard with a brush or that really gritty soap. That didn't feel to0 good, either, but it stopped the acid burn progress. I suppose it's just like a lot of other things that require a healthy respect.