Eneto-55

You will need some type of fairly thick material between the springs and the foam, or the springs will cut into the foam over time. I personally would not use foam, because of long term de-gassing. Maybe modern foams are greatly improved over older types, but I will go back with cotton batting when I get that far along.

Thanks everyone. I'll be on the look out for one of those, hopefully at a reasonable cost. Are there other sections of this book (those not dealing with the fasteners) that have information NOT in books like the Repair Manuals, or the Master Parts List book? (It's a good one to have, but it doesn't include the specs for the hardware. Maybe there was an unabridged version - mine is the 'condensed' version, but still 485 pages.)

THANKS! Now that I look at that, I suspect I have copied that in the past..... Old age forgetfulness, mixed with the possibility of on-coming Alzheimer's. (My Dad and two of his sisters have died from it. If I do get it, I just hope I can go softly into the gloom, not become aggressive or violent, as some sufferers do.) EDIT: Yep. I've downloaded it at least twice in the past. September 2019 I converted it to a spreadsheet, then last May I copied it to a Word document. The spreadsheet I have set up with only 2 columns, but I think I may have planned to create a separate column to enter information for the location of each part. I'm not sure if I have that kind of info in any of the books I have. My problem is that my work gets in the way of my hobby, and I also still do not have the necessary shop space to get back to working on my 46 P15.

I realize that this is an old thread, and that even BobT hasn't been on the forum for some months. But I'm wondering if someone can tell me if the Parts List book that the OP showed a picture of above is the one that includes the complete description for bolts, etc. (i.e., diameter and thread count, length, head type), Thanks much. (I received a copy of the Master Parts List Plymouth 1936 - 1948 for Christmas from my son-in-law, but it's the one there is a PDF scan of here in the downloads section, and it doesn't include that information.)

You should see my right front fender molding. Someone side swiped something that didn't give at all, and it's completely flat. I haven't tried to do anything with it yet, but I'm on a severely low budget with this car, so will eventually try to get it back into shape. (I've reshaped some of the other pieces, but those dents were nearly nothing compared to this fender molding.)

Painting before it's all really ready: I followed the progress of a 2-door 51 Dodge custom (chopped, sectioned, channeled, hood opening reshaped, top rear corner of the door reshaped, etc.) on Rat Rods Rule, and he often painted an area he had just started on. He said that he couldn't really see how it was going to look until it was all one color. But he also did the same with structural areas, partly because he always put the car outside over the winter, when he worked on a wooden boat. (He was from Michigan, too.) When we were doing the body work on my 46, we also sprayed a coat of sealer over the primer, to be able to spot any problem areas. So, maybe just paint it anyway. (I think I've heard of some kind of paint that is 'weldable'. Probably pretty expensive. As I recall, it is used in areas that will later be inaccessible.) But you probably know all of this already.

I thought that was a reorganization, on a new platform. (But then we had no internet 20 years ago, so what would I know about that?)

This is from the Dodge books you have, correct? ('46 - '48') At a difference of .09375, that is a quite significant difference from the size of the pins I removed from my 46 P15. (3/32". I realize that my car may have been reamed out for over-size pins over it's long years of service, but 11/32 is a LOT bigger. The Plymouth may have been different - - my understanding is that the Dodge bodies were new for 1946, where as the Plymouth was basically a carry-over from '42, not getting it's completely new body until early '49. Or did the new Dodge design come out already in '42?)

My brother was given a 47 P15 that had previously been nose down on a creek bank (to prevent erosion). We took off what parts we could get, and I really wanted that transmission (thinking that the grease inside might have prevented the gears from rusting), but no way was it going to separate from the bell housing. So our dad eventually scrapped it all. (Now I can think of some other parts I would have tried to get off, but it was already long gone.)

Back when I worked in a plating shop (late 70's through early 80's) cadmium was the go-to for rust protection. (We also Cad plated stainless roofing screws, not to protect it from rust, but as a lubricant.)

I have certainly made this same error in the past, but this time at least, it was someone else (the guy with the '38 Richards body - I don't know what that is, to be honest - An Australian vehicle?). I haven't decided for sure how I'm going to fix my hinges. I could look for used ones, but they're bound to have the same type of wear. I have thought of making a jig to get everything aligned correctly, then cut off the 'bulge' that forms the pin area, and weld on larger diameter round stock that has been machined to accept a larger bushing than what I have, so that I can possibly even install grease zerts. But the zerts would be over-kill I know, and I try to resist going over-board like that. (It's my tendency to go to extremes. The zerts would also have to have extension tubes that pass through the curved part of the hinge tongue in order to grease them w/o removing the entire assembly from the door pillar. So I should be able to resist that extreme 'solution'. Hopefully.) I was hoping that I would be able to read the technical pin size description on the Dodge parts manual page that Aussie Dodge (the original poster on this topic) posted a picture of, but unfortunately I cannot make it out. I reckon not everyone has an actual scanner for that sort of thing. I saw a Plymouth Parts Book like that on Ebay once, but it seemed rather high priced, I was short on cash at the time, and so I didn't move on it right away. Then someone else got it.... As they say, "You snooze, you loose." I need to check there again.

I had to go back and make sure it wasn't me that made that error "again" - writing 11/16" when I meant 11/32"..... (11/32 = .34375". Sometimes I have to do that calculation/conversion to make sure I'm getting it right.)

I did the bushing route (one-piece sintered bronze), but so far on only one hinge, the worst one of the 6. But I was attempting to return to the original size (or what I understood to be the original size from what info I had). So I have a different problem with the holes in the hinge frame - the holes are now too large for the pins I planned to use. I have considered various ways to build up the area INSIDE the holes, and created a discussion thread about this on Rat Rods Rule as well. (This was several years back already, and I got some good feed-back from the guys there as well. I haven't yet followed through with anything, because my car is still dismantled, and as I say, "My work gets in the way of my hobby." I also do not have a shop yet - the car just sits in one side of our 2-car garage, here at the house. But no room to work on it.)

Light snow here in Holmes County Ohio. Too warm to stick, however. Our entire family will be with us for Dinner, at noon. (Where I come from - Oklahoma - the big meal of the day is called 'Dinner' regardless of whether it is at Noon, or in the evening. So if it's at Noon, then the evening meal - if there is one - is called 'Supper', and if it is in the evening, then the Noon meal is called 'Lunch'.) Anyway, it'll be all of us, but that ain't a lot. Only our daughter is married, and they have 4 boys, 10, 3, and twins at around 19 or 20 months. Our two sons are still holding out for the perfect match, I guess. (36 & 31.) Thankful to God for the family He's given us.

I have run into the same confusion on the P15s. My hinge pins come out to 11/32", and a forum member had told me that he has a Dodge book that lists them as 5/16". The idea is that as the pins wore into the hinge tongue, the solution was to get over-sized pins and drill (hopefully actually using a reamer, but that probably didn't happen) out the holes for the larger diameter pins. On my four-door P15 (1946), ALL of the pins are this larger size. I can understand that on a car with over 90,000 miles on it, that the driver's door hinges, and possibly also the front passenger door hinges, would have been replaced that way, but it seems less likely that the rear doors would have required that to be done. By the way, I would appreciate it if you could post a scan of that page in your parts book. (I only have Service Manuals, no parts book that has the descriptions for each bolt, etc.) [I have posted quite a bit on this topic, and I thought that I have a document with the post information - how to find it all again - but cannot find it now.]