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Uncle-Pekka

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Everything posted by Uncle-Pekka

  1. The front sofa seat is a impressive thing. I will have to take it out for cleaning and also to allow the floor to be welded. The problem is: How to remove it? Where to begin? What shall I remove first to uncover the fixing bolts? Where are they.... Normal way is to look, try, take one step reverse, try again... Modern way is a post a thread in the forum.
  2. The manifold heat riser in my D24 is shot. At least the spring is broken, may be some other parts missing as well - I do not know, because the shop manual I ordered has not arrived here yet. However, I suspect the over heating of the intake manifold does tricks, thus I'd like to shut the heat valve by fixing the mechanism with e.g. wire. The problem is, having not pulled the manifold in parts, I do not know which position is open and which closed. Help, please! See attached photos of my engine: These are the positions the valve goes.
  3. Thanks for a great tour around the place! It is kind of impressive how the nature takes back the machinery... Was the late 30's club coupe (pic. #43?) a Hudson?
  4. F.Y.I.: The gas price in Finland is USD 7.2/gallon this week and going up. How 'bout that? Also during the highest peak if Iraq war and after the Katherine disaster in gulf of Mexico the gas price raised more in Europe than it did in USA...
  5. Thank you folks! Amazing amount of valuable hints and experiences in a nut shell in just one overnight (We finns sleep when you help us). I just unplugged the fuel gauge sender unit form the boot floor and took a peep in with a flashlight. The bloody tank is full of garbage & rust! I drained it and made a sort of a spoon like tool to shovel most off before flushing it. I lifted about a quart of dirt throught the sender hole with my tank-spoon! I suppose I've just found the major reason for the running problems... I'll continue the report later on - Now excuse me, I'm off to continue the digging in the dirt! Oh yeah - I'll also mind the ferrule - Let's keep at least one in the country in the spot where it should be - what do you say, Fireball?
  6. I do not know 'bout your spouses, but I kinda doubt that ol' color trick would work on my wife, let's imagine... Currently I have a '48 Dodge sedan, a '62 Renault and the daily driver '99 Renault Scenic. Let's suppose they were all the same color and let's suppose I'd also have a big roomy garage to keep all the treasures hidden and take one at a time out. Then let's suppose I would be fortunate to get a '66 Cyclone and '42 Plymouth club coupe (like our friend here has) without her learning about the business... That makes total of five. I would drive one for every day of the working week pretending I only have one green car... Would she buy it? - Imagine the cars...
  7. Howdy, I have a sort of random problem with the running of my engine, I suspect it is due to failures in fuel feed: The engine often coughs when stepping on the pedal prior it accelerates. Also after a tight turn the engine temps to die off. Some times it has quite randomly simply died in the speed. In a couple of seconds it looses the power and immediately after dies. Then it requires long starting. The carburettor is tight and sound. The engine idles fine and even, it responds to throttle without a load precisely - the problem only occurs when driving. I do have a fuel filter with a nylon grid btw. the pump and carburettor - there appears not to be dirt blocking it. I do suspect the fuel pump, but then a friend with a 1946 D24 told, that there would be a filter in the gas tank. Since the car has has several owners during past 20 yrs. and it has never been throughly restored, I assume the tank may be corroded & rusty inside. Where is the inner filter located? Is there a way to pull out the filter, or how should it be cleaned?
  8. Eh... just one more thing, Sirs! I crawled under the car today and found out, that the dust cover of the FD & clutch will not come off just by removing the bolts to hold it. The rear end is held above a cross bar of the frame and the front end is in a deep valley behind the oil pan. Will the cover slide forward and off if I remove the oil pan? (It gets a bit tricky here...) P.S. Pat - You got it neatly exposed for the job! Congratulations for having such neat and tidy transmission - Great job, what you've done!
  9. "I'm fine -What's your name?"
  10. Actually this is a new way of marketing accessories I am practising: If you like them you will pay me $50/a pair by PayPal - If you do not, you return them to me by DHL courier... Nice surprice - eh? (disclaimer: the above message is s.c. bad taste practical joke - no action required)
  11. Thank You Folks! Now I am ready for the job. I actually had the seller of the car to kindly buy me a five gallon bucket of the NAPA Tractor Fluid, which I belive is the #134 F-type stuff recommended at P15-D24 tips. The missing piece of information was the way to drain the unit, which Gregg G kindly told us -Thanks! Pat - I trust the Tractor fluid would be non-detergent? Is that required because the unit seals won't stand detergent oil?
  12. Gents, As I may have mentioned in the forum earlier, I bought my first forties car, a '48 D24, earlier this year. The car has been poorly "restored" in mid-80's and driven by several owners since. As a summer treat, I though changing the oil in the Fluid Drive. (Just for safety, I do not know what type or grade there is in currently) Which way I am supposed to drain the oil from the Fluid Drive unit? (I found the window to filler plug under the carpet, but where's the drain?)
  13. Thank you Mr. Evans for the hint! Amazing that there are hi quality repros for such parts. They are not exactly cheap though - I better get the car in shape in other respects before I hurry ordering a set...
  14. Sorry if I stick to a trivial issue, but isn't that an Australian Ute Pick-up? A Dodge. Amazing that they build that body style on almost each and every make of a vehicle down under... Do you know is the car in the picture still in Oz or has it been exported?
  15. Yes, Sir! Three years back as they started the new magazine, there was a 1940 Plymouth P10 convertible in the cover and as the main feature of the 1st issue. I instantly subscribed and have now renewed three times. Another highlight I recall, was a 1942 Chrysler Town&Country stw of the blackout era. Most beautiful wagon I ever seen. I am not an expert in publications, but I dare to say, that HM CC is the best value classic car monthly in the world (at least if you are based in Finland and like US classics). What I especially like in the CC concept is the monthly feature of "Driveable Dream" - unrestored cars, that are in frequent use by them owners. However I am a bit annoyed, that the retrospective review of Dodge in the June issue you refer to, is lacking the D24 once and for all...
  16. I bought me a couple of pairs old used Unity fog lights from ebay auctions past winter. Turned out th both had another sealed beam burned out. Lucky me the first pair were yellow and second clear light, thus I cannot use one for a spare to another... Goes to show that a poor man cannot afford cheap deals... However, I really like the looks of unity lights. I can use the better pair as dummy fogs - and nobody even notices they're fake unless I'd be drivin' in the fog!
  17. Hi Folks, Just wondering, is there any source to get new (or NOS) rubber mouldings for Dodge D24 running boards (inside the car) ??? Mine are in pretty bad shape: There is a thin (?) sheet metal plate underneath the rubber mat, its almost totally vanished as well. As I assume the answer to my first question is "nowhere", the second Q would be, if the good people of this community have figured out good substitutes for the real thing? Thanks, Pekka
  18. Thanks for sharing the experience. I am afraid I have to do the same job on my D24 custom sedan windshield in the summer coming. If I recall right, most of the people at the forum are recommending Roberts as best supplier of the windshield rubber seal? I am really uneasy to do this job; how on earth I am able to insert the stainless trim in the rubber so that it will look the same as originally? Glad to hear you got it right - there may be some hope for me as well...
  19. Hi Grey, I bought a good used set at eBay from a seller called "capitalwheels1950". As a matter of fact I first bought a set of 16" rims in a hurry before I even saw the car I'd bought late last year. The car was sold with a title that indicates it as 1946. When I got the car I 1st realized, that the wheels are 15". Then I compared the VIN with the lists at this site and realized, that it actually is a late 1948 model. Thus I got me now a set of 16" rims I have absolutely no use for. Bad news are, that they are in Finland with me... The prices are very affordable from $19 up +postage for a set of four of five (he lists what he has, inventory changes all the time...) http://www.capitalwheels.com/ // Pekka
  20. First, thanks to Blueskies for the great sound samples: Especially #2 is awesome! The flathead sounds are MACHO! Then; Please explain the lingo to the rookie... Smittys are obviously some famous aftermarket mufflers(?), what's a glasspack? Steelpack? Flowmaster? (be patient & count to ten before you answer this...)
  21. Another Finn with a D24 at the Forum - Great! Congratulations Fireball! The car is just great and what Finland deserves! (I wrote a brief history of Finnish economy after the war here in the Forum. Even if I am partly joking with this subject, I still am a bit sorry we never got the handsome bulbous cars of the forties to Finland at the time) Another story is, that finns hardly ever bought the business coupes, that unfortunately applies on the 30's as well. I guess the number of passanger was the key at the time... You also got a stylish sun visor & fender skirts in the coupe. I trust you are going to keep those on? My Dodge is already in Finland, but not yet at home. Incidently, this Custom sedan was also imported from Illinois: I bought it from a gentleman in LaGrange, very close to Chicago (is it counted as a suburb?) Please find a pic of my sedan as attached - Let's keep the Dodges rolling under the Northern Lights! P.S. There is yet another D24 (a Club Coupe) which was imported in autumn 2006 to Finland, nearby Tampere. It is currently being restored to high standard. The owner has done A LOT OF WORK under the winter, the car will be completed by summer...
  22. Hi, I found a Dizler chip chart of Dodge 1941...46 at the net page which was mentioned also in this thread: http://tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/cgi-bin/search/searchpic.pl?1946-dodge-pg04.jpg In the chart there is a green called "Harbor Green", short code 307, PPG code 40952. I fancied this color and am considering it for my D24, a 1946 acc. to Illinois title record, but what I found to be a late 1948 by the VIN code. Now, the question: First I thought all the colors in the mentioned chart were available all through the mentioned years, but looking at the reference section of this site, the Harbor Green has not been around in 1946 anymore? Will it be a major mistake to paint a 1948 D24 Custom in "Harbor Green"? Second question: (Please consider, that I am a finn never lived in U.S.) How come the title can carry EARLIER mfg. year than the VIN code clearly states the car actually is?
  23. To start with it may be appropriate to introduce myself: I am a chap from Finland having bought a 1948 Dodge D24 4D Custom from a gentleman in Chicago. The car is currently being shipped to Finland and I am most anxious to get to see it for the first time and to lay my hands on it. the car is told to be in fair driving condition, but poor paint job, thus I am planning to drive it in summer coming and overhaul part by part instead of taking it "on a dock" for complete restoration. (I might like to add, that 1940...48 american cars are very rare in Finland due to the war and lack of currency after the war. The currency was regulated after the war until early fifties. The idea was to use all available currency to buy necessities like raw material for domestic industries instead of commodatives which were possible to be replaced by domestic goods or even to live without. In the 30's american cars formed the backbone of finnish "fleet" in numbers and durability, after the recovery from the war they again gained popularity in fifties, but in sixties become more like luxury cars when small cars from western Europe and Japan begun to take over. However, american cars have been the most popular objects of the car hobbies in Finland ever after. In a land of relatively long distances, compared to middle europe, we do appreciate reliability and comfort, not to forget the glamorous design. On this background I am thrilled to import a piece of automotive culture, which originally was not available here.) Well, then the "cultural question". I've wondered, having read US car magazines for several years, the custom you seem to have to remove all of the original paint when restoring or rebuilding a car. Even in a case, when the most of the body is in good condition, rust only in wheel wells and door & trunk sills, the entire body is stripped to bare metal? According to my experience it takes tremendous amount of work and five to ten coats of paint to reach a quality finish starting from bare sanded surface. Compare to a case where only problem areas are cured by rust removal, preventive coat etc... The factory paint and even the layers on top of it are in most cases smooth and even base for primer and new top coat, reaching the same finish by merely a couple of coats. Especially today, when newer and newer cars are restored I doubt one will gain anything by stripping the multilayer coatings applied by the factory and replacing it with new paint system. What I mean is that exposing the bare sheet metal ever does no good. Micro rust hits sand blasted surface in seconds, also sanded surfaces. After chemical paint removal surface may be less reactive, but bare metal still needs several coats to even up the imperfections. My leading philosophy is not to mend what's not broken and that applies to paint coat as well. The areas that remains in good condition can as well be left as they are: sand them with grade 600 wet paper and spray a prime coat over the mended and original areas. A couple of top coats is enough to create better than factory standard finish. Or have I missed something essential? Yours, Pekka Virkkala aka "enfinneigen" (that's swedish for "another finn again")
  24. Hello, A questions from snowy cold Finland: Has anyone used anything else but original parts to repare the heat riser module? Is there heat springs more easily available from other makes of cars which would fit to replace the Dodge D24 heat spring?
  25. Hello Mikey, Great pictures, thank you! The 1949 DeSoto in picture #007, the latest bunch you posted, is it complete with engine, tranny, axels, interior, etc.? Please post some more pic's of it if you have available. thanks, Pekka
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