Uncle-Pekka

Rats... I accidently voted "my D24S has...", but my D24 actually is C for Custom. Anyway, the Panhard rod is there, allright, and I was quite happy to spot it for the first time. I suppose Ford or GM did not have this nice enhancement in the forties?

Yes, exactly '28-29 model A, even if the wheels are '33-35 Ford.

The fuse is for the back light of the clock. There is another wire going to the negative terminal of the clock solenoid. In that wire there is no fuse. Thus the missing fuse should not be the reason for the clock not ticking. Mine was not either working and some weeks ago I took the back cover off to have a look. Fortunately I noticed that an internal wire from the power terminal to solenoid end had come apart from a soldered connection. After melting it back together and carefull cleaning the mechanism with pressure air and CRC spray oil the clock ticks again. It also keeps right time! Well, the fuse... I still do not have a fuse in the holder. I recall it should be 2,5A and lenght could be measured by the holder dimensions, but I haven't had time to find one yet.

"Depends on the car" - On most forties-fifties fat fender sedans & coupes they look real cool. I am going to fit a pair on my D24 as well as soon as I'll get to paint it...

My car interior cloth is light gray. The original ext. paint was dark blue called "Lullaby Blue". 1948. I think I should have a copy of factory spec. somewhere in the papers, but I did not find it right now. When I do I will post again... I also found the people at Walter.P.Chrysler foundation are kind and willing to help if you ask them specific question regarding to details needed in restoration job. See the contact at Reference-section of P15-D24.

Ed, I belive the guards are common after market item for Mopar cars. There is metal stamped text "Wanaukee, Detroit" on top of them. They seem to be the same as in the '49 Chrys' in the older thread, tall with perfect sphere on top. Actually the need to replace the glass is the initial reason to get new rubber: The glass has gone cloudy in between the laminated layers. There is also a minor crack due to hit by a rock in right side. -Pekka

Yes, the molding is two pieces, the chrome center bar covers the gap between the right and left moulding ends. The moulding in my REAR WINDOW goes on the rubber after the glass and rubber is installed, but the WINDSHIELD is different, I suppose the windshield moulding is slipped or fixed on the pinch weld - I do not know how, because I haven't dismounted it yet... Just discussed on the phone with Roberts'. They seemed to understand the problem, but not the fact that the postage is the primary problem for a finn. It costs me twice the value of the rubber to return it to the States...

Tim, The rubber for D19 may be suitable for D24 for what you told. I am sorry I cannot post better pictures as you asked, because I do not dare the cut out the rubber in middle of the summer having nothing to replace it with. The car would be useless without windshield on. The old rubber is petrified, thus I cannot get the screen out by twisting the outer lip and pushing the assembly in as Jeff P suggested... Anyone has a photo or drawing of the profile P2A as listed in the Roberts printed catalog? The rubber in the photo I posted to begin this thread is Roberts' P2, which would be correct only for 39-48 Plymo as Frank said. ...to be continued...

Frank, I got a printed catalog from Roberts with the delivery. Now I see there is one item MORE to the sortiment in their web page "P2A". In the web page there is only "P1 = 39-48 cars without chrome moulding" and "P2 = 39-48 cars with chrome moulding". In the printed book the extra item reads "P2A = Chrys, Dod, DeS 39-48 cars with chrome moulding". There is not, however, any picture for the P2A profile. I guess the P2A is what I should have? Did you bought yours from Roberts? thanks, Pekka

Ok Tim, no problem. However, I still cannot understand, how the slot above the glass slot could be for pinch weld panel, they are bot to same direction! Glass slot opens inside Ok, but pinch weld panel is the frame opening, thus slot must open outside, right? Where could I find a picture of the specific profile for Dodge & Chrysler Frank mentioned? Frank, Where did you got the right rubber for the Chrysler?

Handsome ride - congratulations! Stylish interior and neat engine bay. 1939 is a great vintage! I am always impressed in restoration well done. It is hard to imagine all the work you've done to make the car look as good as your does today.

First I have to issue a disclaimer: Alert - The undersigned is freshman & rookie on 40's Mopars, had one for some months now. However, I'd like to share a similar experience. Ammeter in my D24 was bouncing like you told your did and gave a high "BING!" sound while it did so. I found the reason right away by the smell: There was a short circuit in wiring, starting melt an insulation cover on a wire. Fortunately I lost only one wire under the dash and another from dome light to door post switch. The bad spot was near the dome light. Thus my advice will be; Check the wiring, there may be a short circuit somewhere.

Ok, Thanks Frank, What you tell is exactly what I suspected, i.e. the rubber is wrong profile. What I did not know is it is for Plymouth. I suspected they sent me two off rear window rubbers, even if the other one is way longer. Stupid thing, because I ordered specifying make, model, year and the issue, that it is for D24 Custom with the trim around... Me being based in Finland, the far corner of the earth does not make it any better... BR/ Pekka

Ok, based on the above my conclusion is, there is no hidden trick or special tool to rotate by the crankshaft pulley or flywheel (=fluid drive housing)... I was actually refering to a situation to adjust static timing, engine not runnable, and valve clearance setting. By "no crank", I meant that there is no hand crank lever, nor a hole in the end of the shaft in the D24 engine (what I find odd in a car with fluid drive) I keep asking these stupid questions, because I have no previous experience on the flathead six and the shop manual I ordered in March is still lost with the freight forwarder along with numerous spare parts... However, I thank you all once again and keep the plugs off while working with the fan belt

Simple basic question: How do you rotate the engine while adjusting timing or valves? There is no crank, nor does it turn when pushing due to the fluid drive. I have been pulling from the fan belt, but it does not always work and is quite hard to keep the belt tight enough... Is there a simple trick to know?

I am even more confused, Tim & Frank tells my car has Plymouth body? On what grounds? The picture Shel posted (metallic blue car with black Fulton sun visor) is mine, the same car is in the detail pictures I posted to begin with the thread. In the detail pictures there is no chrome center post, because I removed it, you see the holes throught the center rubber seal, that's where it is fixed with. Another question: Steele rubber web page does not tell the difference between Plymouth / Dodge & al - There is only one profile for cars with stainless trim (that's what I got from Robert's) and another for cars without the trim. Where do I get the right one, where to find a picture of the different profiles to be able to see it for myself? P.S. The rearview window has different type of window trim. The trim does remove and mount without messing with the glass or seal. The seals I got are the same profile for rear & front and I see that it is correct for rear for sure. What does this tell of the front window?

Thanks to all for advice, looking at the Steele Rubber pages it appears I got the right of the two available profiles. Still I am almost positive that it is not exactly the same as original from the factory. I am still worried, how the glass & steel trim will fit in and sit resp. to the body with this repro rubber seal...

Tim, The car is D24 Custom, originally from the States. It also has a chrome divider bar, no clips joining the trim halves. I removed the bar a couple of minutes before taking the picture, because I was about to cut the rubber to remove the glass. What is worrying me, I cannot figure out, where the trim fits and where the steel lip in the window opening in the body. It looks like the rubber has one groove too many in inside (on glass side) and one to few on outside (the body side)

Hello fellows, I am about to have a new windshield and seal instaled in the D24, but having studied the new seal rubber I got from Roberts Motor Parts, I am a bit uneasy to cut the old in pieces. It does not look like it would install the way the old is. See the attached pictures: "recent1" shows how the original sits in the body. "detail.jpg" shows the stainless trim and the where glass is resp. to the trim and seal. Now, "new_seal" does not look the same: obviously glass goes where the piece of paper is in my photo. There is only one lip opening in opposite direction. I suppose the body steel goes there... But what is the opening above to the one for the glass? Have I got wrong profile rubber???

Gentlemen, I give a vote for D24 - Mine D24 Custom Sedan looks the same in every detail. Note the vertical fender trims, the wide stainless trim on the runningboard "lip", waist like is high and braced by wide trim. It's lacking the '41-'42 fin like tail lights... The wagon wheel covers the rear end of the front fender, but what I can see the front fender is shaped like d24. ...a beauty... sigh!

Thanks Folks! Gregg's photo and Shel's picture from the shop manual makes it crystal clear. After I got the gas tank cleaned and the heat riser air valve closed the engine performs much better - as I expected. I wish my manual would finally arrive... Lot of issues would be nice to check up from THE SOURCE.

...Well, I actually replaced the flexible hoses by new ones a couple of weeks ago and they seem to be perfectly allright, no tight bends or nothing. I may swap a shoe from one side to another just in case the linings should be different hardness or friction... What do you think?

Looks like a place to have a great pick-nic, fine cars, nice cosy park. Would you have picture of that D24? - Sorry, P24?

Hi folks, I have a problem with my D24 front brakes: Everything seems to be in order inside the drums: Linings in good condition, no leaks, pistons moving smoothly. I adjusted the shoes to close contact on both sides, I bleeded the dirty fluid and air out - Still the right side does most of the braking: On a sand road I get only right side to slide, on asphalt road the car tends to pull right when braking. Rear brakes are even. What have I missed?

The T must be relatively old model, because it has slender wood spoke wheels - 1922 maybe? Later the spokes looked different. Also the windshield refers to 1922-24, the bottom rail being straight...