Uncle-Pekka

Ok - Is Miranol-type of paint better for this particular job than regular car enamel or acrylic paint? (I am asking because I dislike Miranol, it takes week to dry... On the other hand we have 100+ half empty cans of 70's 80's car enamels (non-acrylic), as remainders of the days when my father used to paint cars for the villagers in his garage... Those were THE DAYS )

Bill, I 100% agree with you: Chrysler corp. did not used decals for interior finish in the fourties. Looking the backside of the window frames I've removed, there is the tan base coat all over and in one of them there is a 4" long track of rolled brown gain pattern, I suppose Mr. Master has tested the roll prior to the woodgrain job. The process you briefly described makes sense, similar to furniture graining. What specific colour tones you've used? Enamel on enamel or some special paint for woodgraining? Can you post a picture of the parts you have painted? Br/Pekka

Super set up! Where did you get the goodies? (Then again, probably over my budget...) -sigh!

Very nice pair you got there, Andy - congrats! 1941 Plymo coupe is like a candy as it is, needs nothing more, nothing less on its outer appearance. I seldom get to see a 1940 Dodge, but it actually looks the best of pre-war Dodges. Originally, I suppose, it had the same L-head 218 unit as the Plymo? The 230 was not yet available in 1940?

Has anyone done the woodgraining job by himself? On my budget restoration/reconditioning, there is the need to do it and I considered I might give a try. The car is 1948 D24 Custom. What paint/colors you have used, tools/brushes? Would be nice to see also some photos of the process or the results. P.S. The frames & dash on my car have unfortunately been painted on with plain paint, thus there is not much left for a color/pattern. However, the edges I have been found to trace the original pattern, it seems like the original may have been applied by some kind of roll or machine. Makes me think would it be better for the outcome to do the top layer with a foam roller rather than with a brush?

Hello Bill, Funny enough, my D24 is also missing the tank sender unit cover... I guess somebody has just thrown it away while inspecting the sender... I think I will make a new cover myself rather than try to find an original part. It will be hidden under the trunk matt anyway. There are original parts manuals at eBay frequently, here's a link to one: http://cgi.ebay.ca/1949-1950-1951-Dodge-Chrysler-Plymouth-Parts-Manual_W0QQitemZ300211888260QQihZ020QQcategoryZ6762QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem /Pekka

No problem with the computer set up. Looks like Mr. Williard is all set up for the summer - Veery nice ride!

Nice going, brother! Wide White Walls - I never knew one can paint on and get that good result. Please share with us the materials and the methods. /pekka

Does not make much sense to me: The company is "classic auto salvage", he has nice inventory, has put up nice web pages, looks like the business is to sell classic car parts - BUT then he tells it is all going to the crusher! I agree it will be very sad if all that is crushed & melted in A.D. 2008. I would surely pay a visit there if I was some 4000 miles closer to the spot... Looked like the 1947 Dodge could spare decent bumpers.

Well, well, what do ya know... ...even the oddest things have reasonable explanation. Thus, in fact, these truck do not have common background from day one. What I mean they have been "recruited at old age" for the store display duty... (E.g. they have not been property of the Army or Navy I suppose *) *)After viewing the rag store link Dennis posted, I realize the company has nothing to do with Navy surplus or anything... Therefore the actual condition under the blue paint may be whatever?

Allright they are Chebbys, but just out of couriosity: There are lots of 1947-54 Chevy 3100 pickups for sale at eBay, all are without engine and transmission, all are said to have new intact grille (chrome looks perfect), most say "old Navy display" and "been inside storaged". Where are they coming from, what is the history, why no engine, how come new grille in all of them?

Well, I could not disagree with Sir John, can I? You had this coming for long time, didn't you? Fair enough...

How come? <hickup> - Mostly Alka Selzer...

Oops, Was that me or myself who posted the bad joke yesterday nite? I repent. Here is another story that may help to forgive me that; It's been told that the war time PM of U.K., Sir Winston Churchill was liberate on spririts. Thus once on a coctail party he rudely remarked an elderly dame; "You are ugly!" The dame replied, "Sir Winston! You are drunk!" Churchill continued; "Correct. However, tomorrow I will be sober, yet you are still ugly." Now, you ask yourself, what this story has to do with a stupid finn who lets frogs out of his mouth? Well, yesterday I was drunk, today I am not (as much) drunk, but still ugly!

Good going Fireball, that's is traditional finnish ************** you are feeding to our friends over the ocean! A) The traditional finnish cattle fence was never built out of hay poles, but raw cut young spruce trees Finns never had habit of cutting the heads, nor hanging them as scares. We just neatly slashed the enemy dead... C) I am the top authority in all and everything and will not tolerate arguments D) I strongly disagree, that Valiant was ugly. A personally like especially the A-body, which fact makes it a beautiful automobile.

Ha ha haa, Fun can be good clean, but it can also be dirty & low down... I'll give you an example right now: " A small black boy lived a short and miserable life in a ghetto. He died on diseases and hunger at age of five. In the gates of the heaven Good God addressed him; "Cometh' here, we'll give you the wings!" "Gosh", said the small black boy and dryed his tears, "will I be an angel now?" "Nope", said God, "A bat."

...on body types. (this popped on my mind after seeing the new town sedan on the slategrove's welcome thread) My father used to call the body type with three separate side windows per side (like e.g. the regular D24 4D sedan) "six light sedan". He does not speak english, nor does know how to pronounce, yet the way he said it is close to correct english pronounciation. He could not explain the term to me, just told that in fourties they used to call the big sedans that way. Is that term familiar with you folks? Does anyone call a car with six side windows "a six light sedan"?

Welcome Slategrove! Town sedan really stands out from our D24 crowd, even if I like the regular 4D as well. Do the town sedan rear doors have hinges in front - not rear hinged "suicide" like regular sedan?

Hello Jimmy, This may make me look a fool, but I like to confess I just mail ordered a real economy set of radials for my D-24 from the States. The company is Vulcan Tire and the tire brand Dean Alpha 365 with a narrow white wall, size 215/75 R15. This is a economy brand by Cooper tires. The set of four including shipping to Charleston port (where my forwarder locates) was $250. The sea freight in consolited container to a finnish port is 10% of trade value, thus CIF should be ca. $275. I should get the set late in March, then we will see was this a foolish trade or a win in a lottery...

Well, actually it says "3OOOE", not even DOOOE... I have also a couple of them after market hub caps in my garage here across the Gulf of Bothnia. However, I do not bother them being not correct. I find them very amusing and intend to keep it that way unless I'll come across a set of immaculate caps at bargain price (not very likely, eh?). Hi Swede! - welcome to the net-brotherhood of flat head Mopar buffs. You will find this forum very usefull and most fun past time! Greetings from Finland! -en finne igen

Thanks for sharing the link, Pete. I also sent the fellow email for specific fenders.

Alert! Auction for NOS piston rings going down in an hour - no bids yet. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=150206390676&rd=1 He says they are pre-war Dodge. 3 1/8" rings. Bottom ring 3 1/4" ??? - are they mixed btw. two engine sizes? Says "ex-dealer" surplus.

Thanks for Thanking me, all! Feels good if I can contribute some as well, because I have got loads of useful information and help always when needed at this forum. The removal/installation process of the vent window assembly is also described at page 198 of the D19/D22/D24 shop manual by Chrysler Corp. (the copies are available by several sellers at eBay,227 pages, price ca. $20, highly recommended! - I bought mine from Bishko books via eBay http://cgi.ebay.ca/1941-1942-1946-1947-1948-Dodge-Shop-Manual_W0QQitemZ300190870047QQihZ020QQcategoryZ34218QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) However, the vent glass removal/mounting job is not explained there. -pekka

I did the small job on my Christmas holiday and promised to post some pictures later on - well, finally I do have some time to play with the images and write... 1) Dismount the inner sheetmetal window frame from the front door 2) Dismount the vent window from the sheetmetal frame: - 1st undo the nut on the lower pivot, take out washers & loading spring -the upper pivot support plate is held by two phillips screws (see below pic.), remove the tiny plate and you can lift off the vent window by pulling it in and up. 3) The most difficult single task is to remove the old glass from the chrome trim. One must pay attention not to bend or scratch the trim. I did this by holding the glass between two plywood pieces with a clamp. Then careafully pulling the trim and helping by hitting with wooden mallet and wood stick the front bend from inside. Unfortunately I do not have a pic of this (had no time to take the camera while doing it...) For the assembly of the glass you need to make a simple plywood jig. Actually making the jig is the thing to do before removing the old glass in order to get the shape right. Use the vent window to draw the contour to piece of plywood, cut with jigsaw and then glue & secure with screws on a bigger plywood piece. You need to do grooves for pivot shafts and a hole for the lock handle to go throught the plate. 4) The driver side weatherstrip was spoiled, thus I cut a strip of rubber from an old inner tube. The thickness should be ca. 2mm (ca. 4/5"). Lubricate the rubber by soap or car wax to ease the glass in. 5) You insert the trim in to the jig and the rubber in to the trim and push the glass in. a Straight edge piece of wood behind the long back edge of the glass. 6) Last thing to do: Trim the rubber along the edge of the chrome trim with a sharp carped cutter.

I do stick with my original steel wheels; I got me nice stainless beauty rings on them and also like original hub caps. What I was looking for was only which is the max. R15 size to fit on them - That Gregg told in the beginning, I suppose: 215/75 R15 will fit on originals