hotrodbob

With my stock worn 218 I got 12 mpg. After the rebuild, .070 over bore, Isky cam,Edmunds head cut .010, block decked .010, Offy intake with two stock carbs, radial tires (235/75x15 rear, 205/70x15 front) set at 32psi, 3 spd and 3:90 rear gears I got 20mpg at 60-65mph. That was before the current crap gas though. Oh and I run Castrol Syntec oil.

That is Great!!! Keep us posted on your return trip..

Dang, the prices are out of this world. When I first built my car I found the Edmunds head for $25 at the Pomona Swap meet and the Offy Intake at Long Beach the following weekend for $20. (1985). Sold the engine and all 12 years later for $1100. Thought I made a killing... Now I know why the guy I sold it to wont sell it back...It's his retirement program...

I'll let ya know.

LOL, I remember. I use to live near 10th and "I" and worked at LACR for 20 years...

I had a '54 sub. Wish I still did.. That is great lookin

Thanks, Keep it a secret, but I put a Chevy in it... hey, I was young and foolish when I did it...Ok, younger anyway.

Thanks..I love my coupe. Other then the wife and kids, never kept anything that long:D Sorry, no pics of the manifolds. They were the narrowest I could find and they came with the engine donor car. It was a 1978-86 Chevelle/El Camino body. I used the '78 as it had no smog holes in them. They were less the 3 inches wide. On the steering side we welded in a 6-8inch extension and angled it away from the steering box. I may have set my engine back a inch to far and that caused the clearance issue. They do not drop down until the outlet. Straight across above the ports. Not a rams horn or drop at each port.

Here is my '48 coupe. I've owned it since 1984. I did a full tilt flathead first and after 12 years and 4 head gaskets I switched to a V8. Black paint (except hood and rear fenders) was Earl Schiebe done in 1972. Flames by me and two friends in my garage 3 nights before it's maiden voyage to the West Coast Goodguys Nationals in 1986. Has Volari disc brakes in front, Fury III rear end. 6 rows of louvers on the hood. Added 3 point shoulder belts and the red interior in September this year. The gray interior from '84 was toasted. May try and repaint it in 2011.

Brian, I agree with you, but in my younger years:confused:it was the easiest way for me to go. :rolleyes:I had a fixed budget and the goal was a 20MPG V8 car. I did the entire swap for less then $2000 parts and labor (exhaust, welding ). This was not possible with a MOPAR swap. I did all the work I could. My buddy that did the MOPAR swap on his never saw better then 15 mpg and spent lots more. Would I do it this way again? Maybe not, but 15 years ago, it was the best thing for me to do.

Just to confuse the issue I welded up a pair of steel valve covers that used DIRECT CONNECTION tops on Chevy bottoms and a Road Runner Pie Tin on the air cleaner. Looks right. Just bought a set of Aluminum MOPAR PERFORMANCE finned covers and will do the same there. Back of my Plymouth has a Canadian Dodge brake light to, so I get 'em going front to back.. The cost to do the MOPAR engine swap,mounts, build the motor/trans, intakes, exhaust, dissy, etc was more then double the cost of the Chevy swap. I had a friend doing a 318/340/360 (I don't remember which engine) swap the same time I did my Chevy and we compared our progress and expenses. Heck, he was even getting the good guy price since he was a magazine editor and was doing his as the magazines feature.

Thanks for the link. I just bid on them. Update: I got 'em.. Now, maybe I need to drive up to Lancaster and get 'em installed...LOL

I ran a flatty in my coupe for 12 years. Edmunds head, Offy two carb intake, Isky Cam and split manifold. As fast as the V8 I have in it now, but better MPG and a wow factor. Beat a 289 Mustang to about 70mph. SBF is a long motor, oil pan is an issue, but weighs less then most V8's. Steering is the toughest problem as the box sits high and about midway down the side of a V8. I did the Chevy route cause that is what I could afford. Had to cut and weld the drivers side exhaust manifold to clear steering box and shaft. Had to use 1978-86 Malibu cast iron exhaust as the engine bay was too narrow to clear anything else. Ford will be narrower, but water pump and timing covers are long. Snow white makes a kit to relocate the pump to help that out. Go with what you have and want. It's your hot rod.

man, I'd pay you to put springs on mine. I haven't had them on for over 20 years now. Where can I buy new ones?

Just put mine in the shop to fix the interior up. May be a couple of weeks before I'll have it back, but I'll meet up if I can before I get it back.

My interior is out now, but may have it back by then. Count me in..Send out a reminder though

Contact for Chrysler's history on your car: Danielle Szostak-Viers Chrysler Historical Collection CIMS 410-11-21 12501 Chrysler Freeway Detroit, MI 48288 Email: archives@wpchryslermuseum.org Fax: (313) 252-2928 www.chryslerheritage.com They sent me some great info. Build sheet, build date, ship date, all the numbers.

Yep, that's my problem now. Registration doesn't match and I don't want to register it as a special construction vehicle. I've had it over 25 years

Calif is starting to look at these and if the engine has been changed can re-register the car as a special construction. This then makes the car the year it is newly registered and must meet the smog regs for the engine year or current year. Calif registered many MOPARs of that era by the engine #.

My home town...EZ for me.

That's sounds like a plan to me. Other then here, how many of us have ever spoken to one another... A SoCal pre-meet would be a good idea.. Now, where and when?

That will be a great event, but I'm booked then. Hope it works out.

Maybe a the Socal guys meet up first and get together and then the NorCal guys do the same. Then we all find/plan a half way point meet at a l8r date. Call it a Mayflower cruise in or something...

That is exactly my problem.

I have a 48 Plym coupe...Thanks!!!!!