Merle Coggins

As I've stated here many times, I have a 4 speed non-synchronized transmission in my truck. I also have another 4 speed trans that came out of a '51 or '52 stashed away in my garage. Last night I was able to get at the bottom of it and found that the drain plug points straight back. The drain plug on the trans in my truck points down on an angle. Does this mean that my spare is a synchronized trans? Short of pulling off the cover, is there another way to know what it is? Also, I've heard of partial synchronized transmissions where only 3rd-4th gears are synchronized. Was this the case in all of those earlier transmissions? If so it's still better than what I have now. I've found that it seems to get going a bit quicker if I start out in 3rd, using the Fluid Drive to my advantage, then upshift to 4th. Also, many times a quick downshift back to 3rd would be helpful when making some turns. However, with the non-synchro trans I usually just leave it in 4th and let it pull through the Fluid Drive because a "quick" downshift just isn't possible. So, if a trans wasn't synchronized from 2nd to 3rd, but was between 3rd and 4th, I could live with that. Also, If I was to make the switch, the spare trans doesn't have the Fluid Drive input shaft. Would the input shafts interchange with one another to make the spare trans work in my truck? Merle

Yup, I'm wrong again. I thought it looked like stainless grill bars on the front. But looking again I stand corrected.

48 or 49 1 ton? Cool pic. Thanks for sharing it. Merle

His web site http://www.mmpar.com/mmpars/default.aspx?CategoryID=24&selection=0 His Ebay user ID is 'fmmpar' and it Ebay store cana be found at http://stores.ebay.com/Mitchell-MOtor-PARts

According to Vintage Power Wagon's site the M37's covered '51-'68. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/products/featured-parts.htm

Isn't there a line around the lower piece that shows the oil level? The brake bleeder is made out of a garden sprayer. I found this post that has a picture of a store bought one. Maybe it'll help you design your own from a small garden sprayer. Merle

Your Pop-up Blocker may be blocking the "Insert Image" pop-up window from appearing. Try turning off any and all Pop-up Blockers then try it again. Merle

Welcome, and yes non-syncro transmissions were common on these trucks. My '50 B-2-C has a non-synchronized 4 speed behind a Fluid Drive. I've noticed a whine noise while in 2nd and 3rd gears, but it is quiet in 4th. I believe this is due to the straight cut gears, and as you have said 4th is direct drive so none of the gears are loaded. I've heard that there were also synchronized 4 speed transmissions used in these trucks. If I ever come across one I'd be quite tempted to put it in my truck for easier shifting. Merle

I've noticed that when I'm using FireFox I get the "Copied" message when I click on the link in my Photobucket, but when I try to "Paste" it into my post I get whatever I previously "copied", not the Photobucket link. If I do a "right click" and then select "Copy" from the Photobucket site it will then Paste correctly. When using Internet Exploder I can just click on the link and it'll "Copy" like it shows. Then just Paste it into the text on my posts. That said, which browser are you using? Merle

I looked through my pics, but I don't have anything that would help you. However my first thought was what Carl had said. It looks like the drum should be mounted to the front side of the drive flange. That would make it line up better. Merle

It's gonna depend on which filter you have on your engine. It seems that there were several different ones used. I have one from the Deluxe Filter Company, which calls for a "JC" element. This crosses to a Napa 1011. This is the sock type If you have a different type of filter, it may take a different cartridge. Merle

Mine was stuck in the open position when I got my truck. The manifolds were also off of the engine when I got my truck. I soaked it for a couple of months with different penetrating oils but it wouldn't fee up. So I applied heat to the manifold just above the pin on each side and it popped loose. I then had to replace the broken spring and it's fine now. With the manifold on the engine my technique wouldn't work, but maybe it'll give you an idea.

Brian, I've found 6 volt starter solenoids for Ford tractors at my local Farm & Fleet store. If you have a similar outlet near you it may be worth a try. Tractor Supply, etc. Or Napa may even have a listing for such things. 6 volts may not be enough juice to give the coil enough strength to pull the contacts together on a 12 volt coil.

Putting a Volarie clip under a Pilot-House truck seems to be a fairly common upgrade. The DPETCA site also has info on it. It may even link to some of the same info that Greg's link shows. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/frontend/front.htm

Yea but... that one shown above is an "Unrestored Original"

I'll make a sceintific wild a$$ guess that it's a 1 ton truck (B-3-D)? If that's the case I don't know of many options for you. See if you can check the ratio of your axle gears. I believe the 1 ton's came with 4.10:1 or 4:30something:1. If you have the higher numerical ratio, maybe you can find a 4.10 diff to swap out. This would help some. If you have a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck you should be able to find a 3.90 or 3.73 diff out of a Dodge or Plymouth car that would fit. The only thing to check is that the axle shaft splines are the same. They made a change in the early 50's to a higher spline count. Your only other options would be to swap out the entire axle with something else more modern, or install an overdrive trans. Otherwise welcome to the forum. Tell us more about you and your truck. Merle

I've converted mine to a paper element. I'm using a Napa 542193. After gutting the upper section I make a donut shaped plate to make the bottom flat. I then made some measurements and went to the Napa master filter catalog. It has filter dimensions listed. I found one that looked like it would fit, and it did. Since the upper cover is domed it only seals around the outer edge at the top, but it seems to work OK.

The puller is only needed on the rears. Looks like your grease seal was leaking a bit. Also, while your at this point I'd knock out the anchor pins and antiseize them up to make for easier adjustments later. This also gives you a chance to reoil the felt washers. The shoes look OK, you may be able to reuse them if you clean them up good. Did the brakes work OK before disassembly? Otherwise you may consider new cylinders at this time as well. Merle

Atta boy, Jim. What vehicle did you take there? The truck or the T-bird? Merle

With the clutch released the throwout bearing should be almost touching the clutch fingers (small amount of clearance). The small spring will help to hold it away from the clutch so that it doesn't touch and spin when the clutch is released. Here's a picture of the linkage on my fluid drive w/ 4 speed. It should be the same on yours. Merle

You've got way too much time on your hands to be makin' that kind of progress already. Keep the progress reports coming. I'm lookin' forward to the finished product. Merle

Lookin' good Stef. The interior looks nice. I like the center console. I also like the tail light brackets. Where'd you find them? Looks like it'll be a blast to drive. Enjoy, Merle

I agree, my shop manual doesn't show it very good either. I also looked in my parts manual. It appears that the wheel studs also hold the drum to the hub. Press out the studs and the drum should seperate. Merle

Where was that pic taken? That's a nice lookin B-1-B Dodge truck in the background.

The 1 ton axles are different enough from the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton axles that finding a replacement third member is more difficult. On the smaller trucks many car diffs interchange. In fact, I have a Plymouth diff in my truck. But from what I've seen that wouldn't work on a 1 ton axle. Merle