Merle Coggins

Thanks Byron. It was good to see you again. Here was my competition in the show. A nice, mostly original, '41 Plymouth Sedan Delivery. (sorry, the second pic didn't come out good) And one other that would have been in the same class (1917-1960 Commercial & Truck) but he arrived late and didn't get to register.

I just spent last week at the WPC Club national meet in SW Pennsylvania and had a great time. Next year it'll be in Sacramento, CA. At the awards banquet I heard an interesting stat. There is a special award for the Best P15, but for the 3rd year in a row it wasn't awarded because there weren't any P15's in the show. So if any of you left coaster's are WPC members, or would like to be so that they can join in the festivities at next year's event in Sacramento, I highly recommend that you do. http://www.chryslerclub.org/ There are many members that tend to be sticklers for the "Bone Stock Original" cars, but there are also some, like me, that could care less and like modified Mopars too (within reason). The judging is done by the participants, not by "by the book" judges. It sure would be nice to have some P15's in the show next year so that they can finally hand out that award.

Might not even be a speaker there, just the grill. All trucks have a speaker grill, but most have only a piece of cardboard behind them. From what you are describing, $2500 seems reasonable. If I had the $$$ I'd probably jump on it. Master cylinders, and other brake parts, are readily available through Napa and other sources. Good brakes are a must, but not that difficult to repair. You'll want (NEED) a good brake drum puller for the rears if you need to get them off for any reason. The smoke you describe doesn't sound like anything to worry about. The way you describe smoke for only a few seconds after start up would normally indicate bad valve stem seals or guides, if it were an overhead valve engine. For a flattie I'm not sure what could cause that, unless it's coolant. What color is the smoke, white? Does it have a sweet smell? I'm wondering if the head gasket may be letting a little coolant seep into one cylinder. If it's a very small amount it would burn off quite fast and you'd probably not notice it after that. Get that truck and enjoy it. Merle

Nothin' like fresh cheese curds, still warm and squeeky. Even better than a bag of candy.

Sure would have been usefull at that moment. I dug through my photos to see if I could show you what we have. This pic shows the lever that actuates the starter. There's a heavy rod that goes through the floor and contacts that lever to engage the starter. I believe this is a picture of Todd B's camper rig. I took it because I liked his inovative gas pedal. But if you look above the gas pedal, and behind the shift lever, you can see the starter pedal, shaft thingy, that you have to step down on to engage the starter.

That would make sense to me, Andy. If you had the same starter pedal that we have, you'd have to have your passenger stomp on the pedal for you, as the starter is on the left side of the engine. I found out this week how the foot starter can make things interesting. While on a group sight seeing drive with the WPC group, we slowed down and came to a stop on a fairly steep hill. I stopped OK, got it into low gear, and then it coughed when I tried to go again. OH $#!T!!! Good thing I have a good parking brake. Pull the park brake, let off the brake (hoping the park brake will hold on the hill), step on the start pedal, pull the throttle out a little, ease out the clutch, release the park brake, and go. My biggest worry was a VERY nice '35 DeSoto Airflow that was stopped directly behind me, not giving me much room to roll backwards.

I would have to guess that if it's a 23" block, than it's a 230. I don't have any info on DeSoto trucks, so I can't confirm that.

Yes, that hole is a breather. ONce the fluid level gets lower the problem will go away. Merle

The M6 was first used in the trucks in '53 as the Truck-O-Matic. Welcome William. You are correct, you can't park with the trans in gear and expect the truck not to roll if on a grade. I have a B-2-C with Fluid Drive and a 4 speed. I got the parking brake cable freed up and working. I've found that that brake actually holds quite well, even on hills. Merle

My motorcycle doesn't have pressure switches for the brake lights, but it's good to know where a guy might source one on the road. Thanks, Merle

Thanks Zeke, That's interesting, but I'm using DOT3. Going by what Ed says, I'll throw in a new switch, when it arrives, and see what happens. If this one craps out I'll have a spare in the glove box. Merle

I use a needle nose pliers and work it between the handle and the escutcheon. The small end of the escutcheon that butts up against the handle is spring loaded. Once you get it pushed away from the handle you'll fine the pin. I use the needle nose pliers because it helps hold it away equally on both sides. Tap the pin out and the handles will come right off. Merle

Just needing to vent a little... Yesterday on my way home from work, with the "Dodge", I stopped at a traffic light and noticed a guy running up along side my truck. "Hey, you have no brake lights.", he says. He had been following me for several miles through many stops for lights. "Really? Wow, thanks", I say. I'm only a mile from home at this point. I get home and break out the multi-meter. I have 6 volts to the brake light switch. If I touch the two wires together the brake lights work. I switch over to Ohms and connect to the two cantacts and set the meter up by the windshield. When I step on the brake I get a reading around 500 - 600 Ohms. This switch was new. (I found the receipt from Napa this morning, dated 5/29/08). I parked the truck and jumped on my motorcycle for a trip to the parts store. The guy at my local Checker was quite helpfull. He was able to find a P/N in the 'puter, but didn't stock it. He tried to match it up with something that would work, but the only brake switches they stocked were mechanical types. "OK, thanks. I'll try somewhere else." There's an Advance down the road, but they use the same Parts America system, so I thought I"d try Auto Zone. The kid I got there was usless. They didn't list a brake light switch for my truck, but I finally got him to look one up for an early 50's Dodge car. Good number found, but no stock. "Can you look in the catalogs for something that'll work?" I soon realized that he was completely lost, not even knowing which catalog to look in. "Thanks, but you're no help!", and I start walking out. "Try a dealer", he says. "Yea, right", I'm thinking. But what have I got to loose. I'll be driving right past Wilde Dodge on my way to Adavance. At the dealer... "By chance would you have a brake light switch for a 1950 Dodge truck?"... "chuckle... I can't even look it up. Our system only goes back to '85, and we don't have any old microfisch here."... "Well, if you can't even look it up, the chance of having one on the shelf is pretty slim. " Then while I was talking with him I found out that there was a new Napa right around the corner. I didn't even know it was there. It's about a half block past the grocery store I frequent, but I rarely go down the street that far so I didn't know it was there. I stop at the Napa. No stock, but after a little prodding he checks stock in the local warehouse. There have one there. He also says that there's a 12 month warranty on that part. "Great, I'll have the other Napa store get it tomorrow." They will deliver it to our shop. Plus I should be able to warranty it through them easier, since that's where I got the original one. As I said, I found the receipt this morning and gave them a call. No stock, but they have 2 at the warehouse down town. "Great, get me 2. I have the 1 as a warranty replacement, and I'll keep 1 as a spare."... "OK, you should have it by noon." Cool, I have have brake lights again before the end of the day. During my parts store chasing last night, I also stopped at my local Farm & Fleet store. I got a general purpose push button switch just in case I needed an emergency manual back-up system. I also found a 6 volt start solenoid for a Ford 8N(?) tractor. I am thinking that maybe the Napa switch can't handle the amperage draw to light 2 brake lights? Maybe I could wire in the solenoid so that the switch doesn't have to carry the full load. But then I calculate the load. 2 - 1154 lamps at 5w/18w = 36 total watts with the brakes on. 36 watts/6 volts = 6 amps. If these switches can't handle 6 amps, they're not much of a switch. I'll have to calculate what the starter solenoid will draw. Maybe I'll go that route anyway. So, if all goes well this afternoon I'll have functioning brake lights again. Plus I'll have a spare switch for the next time. Thanks for listening to my rant. Merle

I can't help myself here. Scothgaurd protects your upholstery from stains. Scoth-Bright pads are used with a drill or die grinder to remove paint, stuck on gaskets, or anything else you want to grind off without removing any metal. They are great.

Than you'll really hate us for our "LOW PRICED" $4.15 per gallon 87 octane gas.

Look up Lou Earle in the "Members List". He's a participant over on the car forum. He's put A/C in a one of his cars and has some interesting pictures of his compressor install. When you find his profile in the "Members List" you can search all of his posts. Look for his A/C info. Or contact him for more info. Merle

Thanks guys. It's all good info. Especially the collected data from townwagon. I messed up when I was stamping numbers into the new plate, so I'll have to order up another one from VPW. I'll be more carefull next time. The replacements from VPW aren't perfect duplicates. Their earlier model tags have the data spaces that seem correct, but the logo on the far left has the older Dodge Brothers logo. The later models tag has the correct logo, but has an extra horsepower data space. One for Gross HP and one for Net HP. I've not seen this on any Pilot House tags. Maybe the Power Wagon tags were slightly different. Either way, that's what I'll use, with the good data from you guys. I'll just have to wait until I get a new tag. Merle

Thanks Allen, I think I'm getting it figured out. I was looking around on the DPETCA site, looking at different documents in the Pilot Knowledge section I found that the 1/2 &b 3/4 ton trucks with the 218 were rated at 95 H.P @ 3600 RPM. But this differes considerable from Dennis' tag. Then another "Salesman's Model Book" for '51 shows the 218 CID Certified Gross H.P at 97 @ 3600 RPM and the Certified Net H.P. at 86 @ 3600 RPM. I figure that the engines got a slight H.P boost in '51. So by my deductions, I figure the '48 -'50 218 CID engines at 82 H.P @ 3200 RPM (Net) and 95 H.P. @ 3600 RPM (Gross) Can anyone confirm or deny this? Merle

Thanks, that helps. In my service manual it shows the 1/2 ton rating at 4850 lbs and the 3/4 ton at 5500 lbs. Your data confirms that's the number I need. Also, the RPM number looks more like 3200 to me. That would make more sense too.

Thanks Dennis, 2 things make me pretty sure it's a 3/4 ton truck. The 116" wheel base (according to my tape measure) and the Serial Number 83360295 When I bought mine I thought it was a 1/2 ton, because that's how it was listed in the add. But once I started going through some things I found otherwise. From http://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php Serial Number 83360295 Year 1950 Make Dodge Model B-2-C Engine 217.76 Flathead Six Wheelbase 116 Rating 3/4 Ton Engineering Code T174 Plant Detroit, Michigan Build Number 20295

Does anyone have a good picture of the VIN tag on a 3/4 ton truck? Mine was missing and I have a new one from Vintage Power Wagons. I need to know what numbers to put in the Gross Vehcle Weight spot and in the Horsepower space. Thanks, Merle

Here's one for Greg G http://br.youtube.com/watch?v=km5fV34coAc&feature=related And this truck looks kind of familiar http://br.youtube.com/watch?v=4GPyIn8ifXg&feature=related

Are those motorcycle tires mounted on the rims?

Well, yesterday I pulled the left rear drum to locate the leak. It appears to have stopped. However this again confirms that possibly a lack of residual pressure allowed the cylinder cups to relax and leak a little while it was sitting. Now that I'm using it again they have sealed up. No fluid on the shoes, so I washed down the backing plate with Brakeclean and reassembled it. I then readjusted all 4 brakes. They were a little off, but not by much. This didn't help the pedal feel much, but maybe a little. Then I adjusted the M/C push rod. Once I got the return spring off I realized that there was more play there than I thought. I adjusted it up and now the pedal feels great. I also hooked up the pressure bleeder and rebled the system. I didn't see any air, but let it flush a bit from each corner. The brakes work MUCH better now. Merle

As I recall there are 3 different tail gates for our generation of trucks. There is the a narrow version, 49" wide beds, which I believe was used on the 1/2 ton trucks. There is the wide version for 54" beds, which is what I have on me 3/4 ton. And there is the "Low Side" version, which would be s shorter version of the 49" tailgate. The Low Side beds are the same as the earlier trucks. So, to answer your question... If you have a "High Side" 49" wide bed, then you need a tail gate from a "High Side" 49" wide bed.