Dodgeb4ya

I too have had several brake jobs on old 30's-50's mopars that I have had leaks at the copper washer to wheel cylinder and the other surface is either a brass fitting or the flex hose. From what I came up with the current new copper washers are so hard that they don't squish and conform to seal. I have not had this problem using old stock copper washers on a leaky junction. I think the old copper washers are much softer. I have heated the copper washers just up to a red color with a propane torch and dropped them in water to soften the copper. Then they sealed the problem leak. Are those Chinese wheel cylinders? All bets are off using offshore hydraulic parts IMO!

Vacuum bleeding any modern or antique brakes with a professional bleeder tool like a Vacula brake bleeder- $300.00 , it's fast and easy but require's a compressor and using it right. Hand held trigger type bleeders work but are slow and sometimes don't pull enough vacuum to do the job properly. Pressure types work well and will get the job done-bubbles stop coming out the hose you're done. So...as per the book- When beginning to vacuum bleed a wheel cylinder with either a hand held or canister type bleeder connect the vacuum suction hose to the closed off bleeder screw. Build up vacuum in the tool, then open the bleeder screw to vacuum bleed the cylinder and line. When you're finished vacuum bleeding a cylinder you close off the bleeder screw with the bleeder tool still reading high vacuum and still sucking fluid. Open the beeder screw only a half turn-prevents excessive suction of air around the bleeder thraeds. It's normal to see bubbles in the suction hose even after more than 2-3 minutes of vacuum bleeding because of a small amount of air being sucked around the bleeder threads. This is normal. Vacuum bleeding fails to do the job properly when you disconnect the vacuum bleeder hose from the bleeder screw without closing the bleeder screw first. A very small amount of old fluid and air sucked out will be pulled back into the wheel cylinder or brake caliper. I myself use both pressure and vacuum type bleeders for brake jobs. A pro shop canister type vacuum bleeder works very fast and can be used on DOT 3,4, and 5 systems with out worry of contamination. Just costs a lot of $$$. I prefer it. Bob

Not much if any demand for these used even if close to new brake parts.

$200.00

They sure don't have much on ebay compared to the 12 year old paper catalog of theirs I still have. 42 pages too! I used to buy from them and got great service. Try the phone #!

We are discussing not helping as the OP requested

You might want to look at the springs too. Proper spring tension is critical . None should be bent or have odd gaps between the coils when streched.

Use the right size pliers if thats what you are going to use..

To me...An ugly car thats a real challenge at times to do some repairs. Timing belt, radiator and AC work- very tight quarters. Cooling system leakage at the cracking upper plastic pipe, door and ignition locking problems as already mentioned, rear hatch strut failures, and plenty of rear cabin road noise. Other than that.. still really ugly.

Most all newer modern cars use primary/secondary shoe linings.

^^^^^That too!

A lot of after market parts are just that-poor fit, poor quality and do not work and function as good as the original factory engineered parts. Factory parts work well if maintained properly. Bob

No front primary short lining shoe or rear secondary long shoes are used on our B series trucks like what the man was talking about. The linings on the B3 P/U's should be the same length for front and rear brakes. Do you know the oversize of each drum? I think your shoes need to be properly arced to each of the drums to get the shoes to work and wear in properly.Your shoes are way out of adjustment -only the heel is contacting the drum. Always arching the shoes if you can saves a lot of time and frustration. Well for a quickie test I think I'd try putting the lower anchor bolt arrows back to stock position pointing to each other , readjust the cams so the shoes lightly drag against the drums and do a good road test. They might work a heck of a lot better-hopefully! Re check the wear pattern location after the road test too. Bob

I would not use that tool even though it is made to remove the springs from the brake shoes. It puts a hole or gouge in the brake lining .I use a hook tool to pull them off. Clean and easy. Bob

Make sure to maintain the cam pin height spec . Bob

I will check the part# and post it.

I'm glad you ended up with it Ed!

OK....now you guys got me going! I'm going down to my parts bldg and find another one of those 2bbl manifolds. I think I will paint this last one up and put it up on the TV for decorations. They are a unique and rare intake. At one time I had four of them. Bob

Wow Ed..... My manifold I sold you looks just as I sold it to you! You ever going to use it? Bob

The distributor probably is OK as long as the external rubber gasket at the outside wire connector is not crispy. The coil probably needs replacement though. It might have got a tad hot! Bob

Did you load test the battery after a full charging of the battery? What was the voltage reading of the battery after sitting for a couple hours? Should be 6.4-6.6 volts. A refractometer or a battery hydrometer test (Specific gravity test) maybe should be done on each cell considering your battery has gone through the hottest event of it's life. If you made sure the cables and cable connections at the battery and starter and block are good then either the starter got heat damaged or the battery did. I would think the battery to be more likely to be the cause of slow cranking. You might want to try another good fully charged battery. I'd buy a new battery to be safe.

Todd, RTV is probably better than permatex to seal the flange surface if you don't have a gasket. The middle picture is of a heavier truck hub but the order of parts is correct. I blocked out the outer flange seal as shown on that pic so as not to confuse you. Boy it was hard to find a proper exploded view of the 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 ton rear drum and hub assembly. Nothing I have shows the exact pic you really wanted to see! The third picture is of your one piece drum and hub. I have a couple trucks same as yours and have had them both apart over time for repairs. Bob

Here are some pics of the medium duty 16"X3-1/2" dodge rear drum/hub showing the order of inner adjustment nut with pin, adjustment washer with adjustment holes and the outer plain locking nut. No outer flange seal is used as on 1 tons and the 3-4 ton heavy series trucks. I always pack grease into the rear bearings for initial lube as it takes a bit for the axles to transfer lube outward to these bearings. Bob

This project car sure ended up in the gutter! Poor little unwanted Windsor

The bumper and brackets line up well and look right! Does your right wheel/tire have oil on it Kevin? Kinda looked like it in one of your pictures. Dah! I see em both leaking as you said!! Bob