Tony WestOZ

As I usually take the motor and gearbox out together I use two hand winches and a lifting plate I made. When the motor is back together, painted and going in for the last time I have a couple soft lifting slings to use as I don`t want to disturb the head after its has been run and tested.

The clock shows the time the sand mold was made. There should be N/D cast near it that denotes day or night shift. Being a Canadian block I`m not sure of the other numbers. On the US blocks the date is usually between the oil filler-breather hole and the dissy. Ryan could you post a pic of the other three sides as I would like to compare them to the two English KEW blocks and the late model US block I have. All 25" blocks, and slightly different.

GTK, great to see its lasted and is getting larger all the time. I take it that these figures are for just for the newer format. Strangly I was looking at the CD`s from the old format you sent me years ago. I don`t think you would get the new format onto 2 disc`s.

This was sent to me the other day by a fellow forum member. Rear Australia twin cab. As per normal it`s in the wrong part of the country. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260614250101&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:AU:1123

I will fit but for me its to much work specially as 250 long blocks turn up from time to time.

M series is 36-37. If your after some early stuff I have an R series(38) truck manual I could copy. Got some thirties truck brochures as well.

Well I`ll be, the sump is the right way round. One thing I had not thought of is the exhaust. The clutch pedal might interfear wih the rear exit manifold. With the 2 bolts, are they the ones at the rear. I think thats were the throttle crossover goes on the LHD cars.

Good point. Might be hard to find a short block truck sump.

You could but you will need to modify the front engine mount and extend the radiator side support panels to allow for the 2" shorter motor. Do you still have the KEW motor?

P26 in Australia were used in 55 and 56 and are the 230cu", 3 1/4" bore. It would pay to measure as the 251 was also available at the same time.

Glad you picked me up on that Andy. I was looking a the wrong picture, trying to read through to quickly. Andy how did your trip over here work out. Sorry I did not get back to you. Llife has got a bit hecktic.

Hi Trevor, Good to see anoher Australian truck on the site. Your`s is a 1958-59, 233C.(series 2, 133" wheel base) Original engine would have been a 251cu". (25" long block). Engine number would be T1-#####. Going be the water pump on the one that is in there, it`s a pre 1950 (I think) with the external water by-pass. Probable a smaller 218cu" or 228cu" motor. Maybe even be a 201. With the motor out of something else who know`s weather it had on oil filter fitted. Pilothouse truck here all came fitted with oil filters. Most of the 40`s trucks I have seen had them fitted as well. Is it possable to get the Body tag, paint code, chassis number and engine numbers off you. I`d like to put them in my files. Cheer`s Tony

The original ones I took off mine were longer at the back. Rayn Could you let me know what brand and part numbers. I`ll put them in my file. How did you get on with the pistons, did you finally get the right ones?

You just have to use a bigger hammer Ryan. No, follow the link Reg posted. They can be a problem at times even with the proper puller. A bit of patience and perseverance are required.

Personally 10 thou is to much. When you compare that to the Dodge spec of 2 thou with 4 to 6 pound pull force on the feeler gauge. I pulled a flaty down last year. Genuine 1oo,ooo miles on it. Had between 6 to 7 thou wear. It had quite a ridge on it. Had to de-ridge it to get the pistons out without breaking the rings and damaging the pistons. As the bore was in surprisingly good condition if I had to I could fit new rings and go again, but only if I had too. Bore gauge is the only way to go to get an accurate measurement.

Page 25 of the 51 in the book. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/DE-FE_Export_Serials/imgcol/index.htm I think I should have scanned them a bit larger. They are hard to read. I am sure Canada had corner windows. I have never seen a pre 52 Pilothouse in Australia without corner windows and they all came from Canada.

You will be lucky there Reg. In my 52 years I have only seen 4 of these duel cabs. 3 of them were photo`s. I missed this one a couple of years ago. Sold cheap. Unfortunatly I had just got out of hospital so I had no chance.

Have not read it all yet but I like were he is going. Australia made a Duel cab from 1957 to 62 in its Pilothouse series. (I have not seen any earlyer but who knows)

This is what I use to get it to all those tricky places. Flexible plastic hose screws in the end of the gun. Brass end has 5 holes in it so it sprays in all directions.

All methods of removeing rust have their for`s and against. As mentioned before acid (or molassis) tank dipping everything has to be neutralized after its done to reduce any chance rust coming back. Sandblasting is my preferance but it can leed to problems as well. The coupe ute body I bought a few years ago is a classic example. It was sandblasted and primed when I got it and it looked really good. However after a couple of years parked down the side of the house, rust in between the double skinning that could not be removed by blasting had raised its ugly head again. What I have done in the past with good results is to spray a rust converter in between these double skin panels. Then I spray a body deadiner (tar based) over the coverter.

I`d love to get hold of a 265 set up as they never came to Australia. Unfortunetly frieght costs would be a killer.

One thing to keep in mind is that, in general, modifications made to a car in Australia will require an engineer (or someone approved) to inspect it and provide the relivent paper work. (thats if you want to keep it all legal) Each state is different so it would pay to talk to people in your state from car clubs or hot rods clubs about what you want to do. There is a growing list of people that have bought modified cars or parts in from the US only to find they cannot drive the car or use the parts here without spending more money on engineers.

After a 3 year lay off because of health issues Pnuematics is the thing I do now. For 10 years before that I was selfemployed repairing earthmoving equipment Before that there was.... won`t bore you with the rest.

Hi Gordon, how are you been? It`s been along time. Whats the progress with your truck?

That engine has been around for awhile now and he still has not sold it. I don`t care what he says, an engine this old should be opened up and inspected. I have a NOS engine which had been in supposed dry storage and I am luck I open her up. Fine rust on all surfaces, specially around the rear crankshaft seal. Managed to clean it all up but all the seals have had to be replaced as well as gaskets. Just hope mine looks as good as John`s when its all back together.