48mirage

Not mine. Contact at the Coronet Forum is trying to identify source of engine. He thought mid to late '50's. I thought by this time the Coronet was only available with the V8.

Can someone decipher these engine numbers from a 230(?) motor? KDS6*15908 Thanks

I use the period type relay's and run my lights at 12 volt. What I've done is I have a dual voltage car. I use the 6 volt to pick up the coil and the 12 volt flows across the points with no problem. I use 2 of them. http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii86/jacobsheir/?action=view&current=DualVoltage2.jpg

Can't get the timing dialed in? Sounds like you may also have too much slack in your timing chain.

That is the picture they were using to sell their heat disipation clay. Say goodbye to wet rags.

The taillights say Coronet.

For my 230 (D30) I found a holley 94 that came from the '56 ford 272 V8. The idle is a little high and I could probably do something with the idle jets to make it better but it is not enough to cause me any problems. The reason I mention the Holley is that after I made an adaptor to mount it on the '54 Plymouth manifold all I had to do to make it work was adjust the length of 1 rod.

For grins and giggles I asked him to reveal the engine number.

Quick note in regards to the numbers. These are 100% numbers, we will never see this type of flow due to the friction/restrictions within the system. A number of about 85% volumetric efficiency would be more accurate for calculating your needs.

Bob, My parts book doesn't go that far but the master cylinder for the Plymouth is the same from '42 to '54. '54 is the latest year my book covers. If you can find the casting number on the 55-56 master and it matches yours I'd say yes. Jim

Another option over the washing soda is to go to your local swimming pool supply store and ask for pH Up, or any product they have to raise the pH of the water. An alkaline bath is what you need to do the electrolysis.

The hardest one and the one most miss is hidden, it is reached from below the manifold and located behind the carb. Can't see it and can only be backed off a little at a time.

Welcome Tim. I lived in McPherson for awhile. Nice little community. Your restoration experience will be helpful to the rest of us. Again welcome to the forum and if you ever find yourself heading to Pittsburg, KS email me through the forum and I'll buy you a cup of coffee. Jim Graham http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii86/jacobsheir/?action=view&current=DailyDriver.jpg

I used a holley 94 on my '49 D30. It has the fluid drive and the carb I bought was dashpot equiped. I used a later '54 Plymouth exhaust manifold to use the thermostatically controlled choke. There are electric and manual conversions for it. I had an adaptor milled out of aluminum to mount on my standard intake and the only adjustment I made to the throttle linkage was to shorten 1 rod by screwing the end down a little. I am running a little fast on the idle with the 230 but this is probably going to be a lessor problem with the 265. This carb came from a 56 Ford Mainline or Customline with the 272 V8 and automatic transmission. http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii86/jacobsheir/?action=view&current=Holley94.jpg Jim

I have received a couple of emails from the above named individual offering to sell me parts that I had been looking for in the past. He promises I will like what he has, in London, to offer and says that he can only accept Western Union. He lists a phone number with the right country code but when I look up his IP address his email originated in California.

In recent years they've changed the menu. I worked there as a 15 year old and had the menu memorized for 30 years. Not anymore. It's also not the same burger as the old days. Well, I guess none of us are either.

Mr. Thomas says he "cannot believe any damage or dirt buildup can occur." I believe differently, age and heat would be my concerns. Yes the units are sealed but over time and through many heat cycles oils will breakdown into smaller molecules.

Do not confuse the fluid drive with the gyromatic transmission they are two seperate things. The fluid drive is in simplistic terms a torque converter that is in front of the clutch. There is an access panel on the passenger side hump. (The front one, for removing the plug) Many of us have drained and refilled the drive with universal tractor fluid. The gyromatic transmission should have 2 plugs on the side of the transmission, 1 higher than the other. remove the top one to vent and remove the bottom 1 to drain. Refill the transmission with 10w non-detergent oil. This oil can sometimes be difficult to find but I've seen both the right tractor fluid and the 10w non-detergent oil at my local Napa. P.S. The fluid drive unit will take almost 2 gallons to refill. Go here: http://www.merc583.addr.com/mopar/framesets/techtipframeset.html Near the bottom of this web page is a section on fluid drive.

Parts manual has a lot of exploded diagram pictures in it. See them on the *-bay regularly.

The NAPA 1071 is for the bypass flow filtering system the NAPA 1080 is for the Full Flow filtering system. I would guess that is the reason for the different micron ratings.

If you want to post these active auctions you should be fair and also post the ones that you are interested in bidding on. That way we all have a fair shot at that unique item that you've been trying to find for awhile.

I voted something else. Opening up the exhuast had an immediate result. Making these engines breathe easier give them more zing.

Lift the carpet on the right side of the hump in the front. There will be a little panel that opens up. Beneath it you can get access to the fluid drive unit. Roll it around until the plug is accesible. If it has a plug it has fluid drive, if it doesn't the transmission has been changed at some time in the past. Use a 10w hydraulic fluid in the fluid drive. Napa has a tractor fluid, I used Valvoline tractor fluid. When I freshened mine it made a significant difference. It took almost 2 gallons to fill the fluid drive. Do not drop that plug. After the plug is out roll the fluid drive unit until the plug location is on the bottom, it will drain out the vent of the bell housing. After empty roll fluid drive back to the access hole and refill. It is a very slow process to fill. Read the technical tips section on the fluid drive. http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/techtipframeset.html

The 2 most important tools I have are the service manual and the parts book. A lot of times the parts book will have exploded views that give better details than the service manual.

This is my cousin's yard. It's been there probably longer than any member of this forum has been breathing.