40plyrod

Thanks for your replies Andy. I'll do a little more trial and error and see if I can get something to work.

I tried both on the passenger side and took pictures to demonstrate that there was no difference between the two other than the shock mount direction. This leads me to believe that there must be a difference in the lower control arm between the '40 and the '48.

Yes, I put both drivers side and passenger side uppers on to check alignment but they both are the same and I'm not noticing any sweep difference between the two. Next step is to either get another upper on the chance I have 2 driver's side (one with the shock mount in backwards) or take apart the driver's side and try one over there and see if it lines up. Thanks again Andy for you help.

Thanks Andy for you response, here's a few pictures of what I'm up against. I don't see any offset difference between the left or right upper control arms. The stock 40 upper control arm lines up but the later style is quite a ways out which leads me to believe nothing is bent and I don't think there is enough adjustment in the bushings to get it to match up. That's why I'm wondering if the later lower control arms are different as well.

Hi guys, it's been awhile since I've posted to this site, life got busy but I'm back and am having a parts interchange problem. I've got a Canadian made 1940 Plymouth sedan and I'm working to install a set of dropped spindles. I'm trying to swap out the upper control arms from the 40 for a set from a later model (1948 I think). I've learned that some of the 1940 Plymouths used a 2 bolt attachment for the upper control arm but mine is a 4 bolt link so the newer style control arms bolt right up however they don't line up with the lower control arm so I can't install the upright. Is there a difference between the 40 and the later lower control arm? Would anyone have an interchange parts manual that can check this for me? Anyone have any experience doing this. I know from doing some research on this site AndyDodge has done this with no issues. Thanks for any help. Ed

That's pretty rough, I've seen better ones come up but anything is fixable with time and determination. Where are you in Canada? My '40 was missing most of the grill bars and I won an eBay auction for what was advertised as a complete set with extras. Turned out to be for a '41 when it showed up (got hosed when seller asked for extra money to ship and then parcel showed up COD but that's another story) but I was able to modify them to fit (had to wife was unhappy with the cost to start I couldn't tell her they wouldn't work).I think I have some pictures of the ordeal on my build thread.

As a resident of Vancouver Island about an hour's drive from Victoria and coming from a long line of snow haters, I can say we may not get much snow most years (although I'd say more than our fair share)but we hate any snow that we get well before early March. ?

Graduation pictures here too. I didn't think there would be much going on this year so I only insured the Plymouth for the day on my daughter and her date's prom (such as it was). Sure felt good to be out in the Plymouth. I took the longer way back home.?

The brakes work very well. I used mid 70's camero callipers and a 2lbs residual pressure valve on the front and nothing else.

You mount looks similar to the one I made for my 40 plymouth. I had to heat the pedal arm to go past the master cylinder, maybe that and option for you too? Here's the link to my build the master cylinder upgrade is on the 1st page.

Haven't contributed much to the forum lately so here's a few with the Plymouth from a trip I did with my youngest daughter back in September and a few with the truck from a Day in October that was much too nice to stay at work.

Nice car. Stance looks great. Any build pics.

I did notice the glove but from the comfort of my living room it looks like a scenic drive in a roadster on a beautiful warm sunny day.?

I like that view Bill, where was this taken? Somewhere between California and Kentucky?

X2 on the use of clay to check you clearances. This is what happens when you just assume that the head hasn't been planed and you ask the machinist to bump the compression (regrinding the cam for performance didn't help either). Machine shop said they only took 40 thou but measuring it to another head it looks like about 1/8" been removed over it's life. Thankful I decided to check the head clearance by hand before tightening everything down and hitting it with the starter!