PatS....

I think a rock bottom minimum for just your time would be $21/hr. If you are supplying the tools and such, add another $1.50/hr for the whole job. If you have to travel more than 10k, 50 cents a k. If you have to move furniture, add $1.50/hr forthe whole job. If I were doing that, I would never supply the paint. If you get stiffed, you are stuck with a bunch of paint and lose what you paid. Also, if you have it tinted and it's not quite the right shade, you have to absorb that loss and you don't charge enough to do that. Let the customer supply the paint. I did painting as a kid and I learned that moving the furniture can be a source of complaints...you broke this and gouged that. I got so I turned down those jobs...empty suites and houses only. Nobody looking over your shoulder, either Got lots of work through management companies back then. Good luck, hope you make a ton O' cash!!!!!

I have Charlies kit for my 49 Chrysler. Simple and inexpensive. Highly recommended.

I like the tail lights. With regular doors, for a full custom, it's OK. Very few "kustoms" are a real improvement over stock.

Nice job, looks great:)

My understanding is that the fellow is/was a collector of objet de junk more than in business and now he's downsizing. Not sure if it's voluntary or the county made a suggestion

Lots of pics: http://www.northwestcoin.ca/gvcars.html Located in Neepawa, Manitoba

So, does that mean I could use a Buick drive train and still be OK??, after all, Walter P. was head of Buick for a while;):eek: As I said, money, or lack of same, is usually behind my choices:( How about a 3 cylinder Perkins diesel???

No, the springs were installed after that pic was taken, the pockets were never removed from the arm, and the lower control arms won't fit if swapped side to side. I DID mark them with a punch anyway just to be safe Now to get the disc's on and the wheels on.

I've never bought into the all the same make theory. Most of the time, it's use what you have or what you can get a great deal on. To me, once you start to modify, it matters that it's done right and safe, not which factory the part came from originally. If I got a great deal on an AMC 304 just rebuilt, I would use it, because it's a great deal, it's a decent engine and it's different. If I got a great deal on a SBC, I wouldn't hesitate to use it. Cookie cutter? Maybe, but a great all around reliable and powerful engine that will last. There IS a reason they are so popular. Besides, I LIKE cookies!!!!

Nice Plymouth. The paint scheme sort of looks like an old time taxi. They weren't all Yellow back then...or now for that matter.

I ground my control arms a little bit, but not much, then sandblasted and painted. As for boxing them, I see no benefit. I've never heard of one failing and they used the same arms with the hemi cars. Welding the spring cups is trying to rectify a problem when there is no problem I think.

OK, now I get it!!! When I was looking at the adjustment, I was thinking by adjusting it the opposite of where it is, it would move the pedal closer to the floor. The pedal stays put, it's the clutch shaft which moves, just like Dave said. So, by adjusting it the other way the pedal will move the shaft further and the free play will lessen. Amazing what a glass or two of Jim Beam will do to your perception! Thanks Dave. Your explanation was bang on, it just took some thin'in' to get it into my head. We weren't able to get to the truck to work on it today, and the weather is going into the dumper tomorrow but we'll get there this week for sure. I'll update the results of the adjustment then and hopefully we get it running again.

Thanks Dave, we're going out to the truck tomorrow. I'm a bit confused on the pedal adjustment. As it is now the clutch is right at the bottom of the pedal travel but does release completely. To my addled mind it seems that adjusting the pedal other way would mean the pedal would hit the floor before the clutch released. I will have him try adjusting it the other way to see if it makes a difference. If it were still mine I would be putting in a new clutch just to eliminate that part of the equation. Maybe I'll just get one and give it to him...at least I don't have to install it! He has replaced the engine with a runner that I had given to me from a Fargo 1/2 ton. He started it on the stand and it ran great but of course now that it's installed, it won't start. So we'll try to address that tomorrow too. As soon as it's running and back together, I'll repossess it:eek:

If you are looking to ID the fluid drive with 3 speed, this one came out of my '49 Chrysler Royal.

Tim, I tried to sell my 440/727, running well, for $1500 Canadian. Got one call Had it advertised 4 times. Thinking serious of putting it in the '49 when I get back to it.

And it depends on the clerk at the DMV. We had one clerk tell a friend here that because his old Pontiac didn't have a 17 digit VIN, he would have to have the province issue one for it at a cost of $450!!! He went to a DMV close to a local Hot Rod shop amd they were familiar with old car serial numbers and he was in and out in 15 minutes. The ill-informed clerks are big part of the problem.

Don's got it. James Douglas has done the legwork and the research to determine the best kind of modern fluid to use in the old Fluid Drive. There are lot's of opinions out there, some right, but James has the research to backup his opinion. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=14203&highlight=fluid+drive+replacement (same link as Don's)

Well, Bob, here's an idea! This is real, not a photochop

I'm not raggin' on you, but when completely rebuilt, you have a stout, strong independant A-Frame suspension, on an uncut frame. What would be "updated"? by changing what's there. The only difference I see is that these cars have a kingpin rather than balljoints. Not quite sure how clipping to gain balljoints is an "upgrade" Again, I'm NOT against clips, not at all. On many old cars, a Camaro clip is certainly an upgrade. I think for regular street driving, the stock front rebuilt with discs is comparable to any Camaro clip and buckets cheaper. Basically, I'm just saying be sure what you gain is worth the work and expense. If this is just an excuse to work with Dad on a project, well, that's as good an excuse for clipping as any I could hear. Go for it and relish the experience!!

Nice car...but overpriced as mentioned, especially now. Nothing is selling. If he really knew anything about old cars, he would know that the car has a SERIAL NUMBER for registration and NOT a V.I.N. A BUYER NOT KNOWING THE DIFFERENCE MAY RUN INTO TROUBLE TRYING TO REGISTER IT with that incorrect terminology.

The parts are readily available to rebuild the stock A-Frame suspension, several good disc brake kits are available, ECI has a good dual master cylinder kit, and there is a R&P steering kit available. All together MUCH cheaper than a sub frame and no cutting or measuring. What is the goal with the sub frame??? Do the above solutions not meet the end result of a sub-frame. I'm not against sub frames IF they are done correctly. Sadly, few are, most are relegated to the scrap heap when the sub framer realizes AFTER the car is cut up that it is a job beyond his scope and finances. It's not a job for the faint of heart. Also consider resale. I would never buy a sub framed car unless I knew the builder and his previous work and his reputation was impeccable. I hate to see a decent car scrapped.

I think it was Don C who posted this a long time ago. I saved it because I knew I would forget. Thanks Don

Keep in mind the top layer of "chrome" is microscopically thin, so, while the pads work well they also remove the shiney layer of plating after 3 or 4 uses. (does not apply to stainless)

I think the reason is that if it's financed, they won't get the money anytime soon, so they might be waiting for a cash buyer. Chrysler in Canada is business as usual...sort of...they are not part of the bankruptcy at this point. Some dealers here are giving away a Dodge Caliber (new) if you buy a new truck. It's working so far.

So, blaming this debacle on the unions is a bit far fetched.