B1B Keven

You can drive the lock out with a punch without removing the screw that's giving you trouble. Mind you, you'll have to whack it pretty hard.

Hagens lists these trucks as having the same shoes: 16x2-1/2 1939 - TF28, TF35, TF36, TF37, TF38, TF39 1-1/2ton 228-6cyl 16x2-1/2, w/ Std Rear Wheels 1940 - VF20 1ton, VF30 1-1/2ton 228.1-6cyl 126.5wb, 133wb, 160wb 16x2-1/2, w/ Std Rear Wheels 1940 - VF27, VF27, VF28, VF29 3/4ton 228.1-6cyl 16x2-1/2 1942 - WF20-22 1ton, WF31-32, WFM 1-1/2ton 236.6-6cyl 126.5wb, 135-5/16wb, 160wb 16x2-1/2 1942 - WG, WGM 1-1/2ton, WH, WHM 2ton (41)241.5-6cyl, (41-42)250.6-6cyl 16x2-1/2 1946 - WF20-22 1ton, WF31-32, WFM 1-1/2ton 236.6-6cyl 126.5wb, 135-5/16wb, 160wb. 16x2-1/2 1947 - WF20-22 1ton, WF31-32, WFM 1-1/2ton 236.6-6cyl 126.5wb, 135-5/16wb, 160wb. 16x2-1/2 1954 - C1F, C1FL, C1FS 1ton, 1-1/2ton Light Duty 230-6cyl 3-1/4 129wb, 153wb 16x2-1/2 1956 - C3GL 1ton, 1-1/2ton Light Duty 230.2-6cyl 129wb, 153wb, 171wb 16x2-1/2 1956 - C3GNL 1ton, 1-1/2ton Light duty Forward Control 230.2-6cyl, 259.2-V8 108wb, 126wb

Call them. I'm sure they can re-line your originals.

http://hagensautoparts.com/dodge-truck/9-brake/249/

This company rebuilds fuel sending units: http://tristarrradiator.com/

Nope. Any '48-'53 Dodge truck. Corner cab windows were an option. See, it was worth getting out of bed today, ya learned somethin'.

I see 4. Welcome!

Now lets see them in the dash!

Thanks for thinking of me Mark!

I've got one (or two).

Welcome! Looks like you've got a great truck to start with.

I know in CA they use the date of sale for year of registration. My folks bought a '74 Colt that had sat on the lot for a year and the registration said it was a '75. LOL

Nice! Another resource for parts.

'50 Plymouth I think?

Car.

Welcome! I have a '49 B1B and I'm doing the wiring myself. Just cut the original tape loose and replace one wire at a time. Here's a great source for wire: http://enginebarn.myshopify.com/ Here's a great diagram if you need it: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/wiring_harness/wiring.htm Keven

I would recommend Clesters for the door seal kit, not the rear window seals though. It took a shop almost two hours to install my corner windows.

Merle, Don't they have 5 3/4" between the mounting holes?

I believe the arm rests Roberts sells are correct for the '51-'53 trucks. However, you can find MoPar arm rests on e-Bay that will work. The pair I have in my truck came out of a '53 Desoto.

When it stops, give it a little turn back to the right and start again. They're a PITA!!!

Wow!! That's a nice truck. More importantly, someone stayed true to the brand and used MoPar parts for the conversion. Well done!!! Welcome.

I did. Looks like I'll have to bust out the drill.

Thanks Mark. PM me a price for both + shipping.

Cheers!

What's the fix Tom? I'm in the same boat.