David A.

Well... I may have to eat crow on my above statement and chalk up another mistake. Since Kevin has seen many more build cards than I have, I went back and looked harder at the original copy. It's very difficult to make out and since it seemed everything was a number, I assumed those were zeros. It does appear however that if the state abbreviation NC at the far right were to barely intersect a line on the right hand side, it would make the "c" look like a "0". What about the letter at the top above capacity? Should that be a "c" as we'll, or do you think a "0" is correct there? Thanks for the advice! David A.

I have certainly made my share of mistakes, but in this instance I am pretty sure I got those letters right. I will try to attach a couple pictures of the original copy I got from Chrysler. The transmission is a 3 speed fluid drive. I'm not sure what the circle is above and between the numbers 52 & 52. It seemed out of place so I didn't put it on the build card I reproduced. David Anderson

I would not recommend it, but I ran a 2.76 rear end out of a 1968 Chrysler New Yorker in my 1950 B2B with its original tired 218 for almost 20 years. It had no power, but it did get me where I wanted to go. I even drove it from Greer, SC, to Wachapreague, VA, then through the hills of Pennsylvania to the little town of Millerstown, PA, and back home to SC. It struggled in the mountains, but still did surprisingly well at interstate speeds. As I recall I was running with interstate traffic with my speedometer reading between 35 & 40 MPH! I have been in the process of restoring it for the past 6 years or so and I have put my original rear end back in. I replaced the 4.10 pumpkin with a 3.54 out of a Plymouth. I am looking forward to the day when I can try it out!

Looks real nice! Bet your finger got tired of holding that nozzle down!!! David A.

Both the above posts sound like excellent ideas!!! Wonder if I could talk the wife into it? David A.

Add me to the list of jealous people! I showed your truck picture to my 19 year old twin girls and they both want one! David A.

What a beautiful truck! Thank you for posting the pictures, I know you are going to enjoy driving it. David A.

On mine, the pulley and hub are one piece

Yes that is my add. I had a couple responses but they weren't the right item. I have not had any responses for some time so I assumed the add had run its course and would probably not be getting any more responses. It is the only part I need to be able to start my newly rebuilt engine. I want to do that before I set the newly painted cab back on, in case I need to pull the engine back out of the frame for some unforeseen reason! It has been holding up my progress on reassembling the truck so I thought maybe someone on the forum could point me in the right direction. How can I ask for help looking for something without saying what it is that I am looking for? Thanks, David A.

Is the purpose of this forum not to help its members restore or repair their pilothouse trucks? Why was my plea for help deleted? I made it clear in my post that I followed the proper channels by placing an add in the parts wanted section some time ago. I also looked in the store section for my needs to no avail! All I did was ask for help in locating a part that I need and haven't been able to locate for over a month now. With the wealth of knowledge available on this forum I'm sure someone, who maybe never checks the parts wanted section, could have told me where to find what I needed! Thank You, David A.

Tom, I have a pair of black ones I was going to put on ebay. I think they are the year you are looking for. I'll measure them when I get home to be sure they are the right hole spacing. If your interested, give me your email address and I'll try to send you some pictures. David A.

You are all probably aware of it already, but there are at least two companies that will convert your radio to solid state AM/FM, and add an input jack on the bottom where it can't be seen so you can listen to your iPod or CD player through your radio. The radio still looks and functions just as it did from the factory. I had mine converted, but haven't installed it yet. I'm still trying to get the paint buffed out on the cab! David

Looks like you are doing a great job! Wish I was that far along. David

I think I got mine from Roberts, or it may have been from Andy B. At any rate those were the same way. I was really disappointed at how sloppy everything fit. I'm still in the middle of my restoration, so I haven't addressed that particular problem yet. David A.

I want to say thank you to each of you who took the time to research and reply to my question! The information you provided was exactly what I was looking for. After sitting on jack stands for nearly eight months it will sure be great to see it sitting on all fours again. I did do some research on the speedisleeves. My axles had very deep groves and a lot of deep rust pits near where the seals would ride. From what I read it sounded like the speedisleeves were so thin they would tend to conform to any deep groves in the shaft; hence, some recommended filling the grove with epoxy prior to pressing on the sleeve. That in turn made it very difficult to replace the sleeve when it became necessary to do so. After showing my truck a few times, I hope to enjoy driving it a good deal of the time and I just felt a thicker sleeve might save me some trouble down the road. ....I guess I'm paying for all the trouble up front! Thank you all again, David A.

If no one has an axle they can measure, can someone tell me where I might be able to look for that information? Without the OD measurement of where the seal rides, I have two ruined axles! I took them to the machine shop last June. He took forever getting started on them. In the following months he had health issues including a heart attack. He turned them down to accept sleeves he was going to make, but now he can't find where he wrote down the original dimensions. Would the Chrysler product cars of the same era have the same shaft dimensions? If so maybe I could ask on the car side. I sure could use some help on this! Thank You, David A.

I need the diameter of the rear axle where the seal rides on a 1/2 ton B2B. I took my axles to a machine shop to have them sleeved where the seals had worn a groove in them. The machine shop has had them so long they don't remember what the dimension was before they turned them down for the sleeve. I don't see how some people can stay in business! Any help will be much appreciated. David A.

I just spent $1600.00 to have my B2B radiator recored. $1000 for the original style core, and $600 labor. He said if he used a non original style core, he could do it for $1000. Since I am planning on showing my truck, I had to go with the original. I guess I'll need to find a new hobby pretty soon!

I used Steel rubber exclusively on my 38 Buick I restored about 12 years ago. It has been kept inside, but it still looks as new as when I first installed it. I have used other companies rubber products on previous restorations, and had them deteriorate pretty quickly... Weather checking etc. Steel is kind of expensive, but it seems to be very good quality.

Don, No I don't have a picture or any numbers off the radiator. The shop still has it so they can remove my tanks and put them on the new core. David

Anyone had a radiator recorded lately? I took two radiators in to get checked, and they were both too far gone to repair. Since I am making a show vehicle I had to get the original style core. The price.... $1600.00. I guess my days of show restorations are about over. With three girls in college I just can't afford it any more!

Thank you to everyone for your input and pictures. I saw a picture once of a chrome handle, but I know mine wasn't chrome as there is no trace of it on the handle. It sounds like the majority say red, so I guess red it is! When I get a chance, I'll try to figure out how to post pictures of my restoration. I painted the cab a few weeks ago, and I hope to paint the front fenders and nose today. Thanks again for all the responses. David A.

Are they even reproducing the high box sides? If so, I would be very interested! David A.

Can someone tell me what color the under dash emergency brake handle and bracket is supposed to be on a 1950 B2B? Also, are the rear engine mounts painted silver like the bell housing, or black like the frame? Thanks for the help! David A.

Fantastic job! I have enjoyed following your progress, and I really admire your skill. David A.