jd52cranbrook

Good to hear areo Did I miss something, was the original author's problem fixed? I'd like to know what caused it.

Thanks, Two days, about 75 miles, no leaks. Think I may have it.

Dang bridge is 5 bucks now, and going up again soon. The Bay, Dumbarton and San Rafale are 4,, and going up,, sucks,,, I hardly use them anymore.

Cool beans,,, looks overcast,, cold still?

Thanks, I hope it does too. Sent Earl a email this past week about it. No reply as yet but he could be busy. With this stock head on I am in no rush. I want the head right before it goes back on. I had to drain the water today. I have had terrible luck with water neck leaks. Only a drip or two, but it bugs me. I have put the base of the water neck on a belt sander for flatness, but the area on the head is rough with pits. I have tried several methods, this time I am just using RTV with a loose fit at first to let it harden. After that I tightened it down snug. Just now filled it and warmed it till the thermostat opened. So far so good. (fingers crossed) If this doesn't work I am thinking of making a rubber gasket.

56? I googled one

What year is that red plymouth/dodge/desoto????? I am getting to be a fan of those cars. They have a nice style to them,, at least the two door hardtops do.

Are you sure its empty? my bet is its not,, when full,, you will see no fluid in the bowl, a optical illusion. Opps, sorrry,, I just re read the post above

I have no issue with you being a lawyer or not, makes no difference to me. What I object to is your constant use of having someone else do your work for you on here.. I have yet to see you use the search option on this board. But even that is not my concern, it is other who chip in to help you, yet, to me at least, you are pretty ungrateful, and use none of it. This is not harassment,,,, at least I don't think it is,, I'm just a lowly contractor. Usually I just stay away from your threads,, which I will start practicing again.

Now that was some great reserch.

How bout you ActionGrant? Any news on the low oil pressure?

Drive one what? I have driven or owned the cars you mention, they are not the best made cars in the world. Look it up. And this time everybody, lets let Mickey do some of his OWN research for once.

For a attorney you seem to have a lot of misinformation.

Pretty slick

Just wondered if you have found a solution as yet?

The gauge of the wire connector does not designate the size of the bullet connector. That's what you need to pay attention too. On the front carb you may find it helpful to take off the cover of the connector, so you can bend the connector 90 degrees so you will clear the rear carb.

I remember when a kid, I was mad about smoothing, probably a ride or a game my parents would not let me play. I was crying and stomping my feet, My dad made me stand in front of the mechanical laughing clown for 60 seconds, betting I would smile and laugh before the minute was up. I lost the bet.

will do, thanks.

I put the stock head back on, with a used head gasket. Someone once told me if you heat the copper of the gasket with a torch before putting it on it would be reusable. At any rate I used a different one from the Edgy head, I didn't want to spend the money for a new one just to try a theory. No more bubbles after about 50 miles. And no water loss after initial 2-3 warm ups. Going to drive it awhile to verify, then sending the head, (with it's gasket for kicks) back to have it magnafluxed and go from there. I'm happy to have no water loss. Now I can get my AC re charged and enjoy the summer even more,, Thanks to Rustyzman for all the help. Along with everyone on here.

If this engine is rebuilt, I would think the 10/40 is unnecessary, and would raise the pressure. 5/30 or 10/30 seems more appropriate. Other than that,,,,,, drive it.

That is very, very nice,,,,,, engine compartment as clean as the outside,, I really like it.

Thanks Rustyzman Good info, I have the head off already unfortunately, but I can certainly test the stock head once I get it on. I will have to find someone with a better nose than me. Thanks very much for all of it.

Thanks, luckily all I am spending now is my time. If the head is bad, I think Earl will stand behind it. I am also replacing front glass this weekend, so it would be down anyway.

Being that I still have a stock head, I am going to put that back on and see what happens. I will try to view the weep hole on the pump for water stain. When I talked to Earl a few weeks ago he said if I have any further issues with the head to send it back and he will look into it. I may have to take him up on that offer. If the problem persists then I guess I am either up a creek and the block is bad, or there must be hose or pump leak that I cannot see. (crossing my fingers)

No Leaking either by feel or site. I do not rule out the head. Carpet is dry, but will look further. It is a Vintage Air set up. No boil over that I see. I have a tester from Napa, looks to be about the same thing. It did not turn yellow as it was suppose too, but it did go off the original blue color some. They say if a leak is found, at least on a inline engine, that I can isolate it by pulling a plug wire at a time and testing. I may need more fluid, but I can try that. I guess. I have had spark plug thread trouble on this head in the past. I have fixed that, but I think this head is haunting me. I will check the water pump weep hole and see what I find. Damm,,,, or dang,,,