Frank Blackstone

I just bought a rear main seal that was rubber in 2 half circle and 2 plastic conectors for each side.

I don't know why but I always pictured Coatney using a creeper with a cup holder and a food tray attached.

I pulled the leaking rear main seal that has a rubber National 6405 number and now can not find an exact replacement. The configuration of the engine dictates that a rubber seal be used.I could not find a part number in the old Forum list. The parts houses do not have a direct Fel-Pro ,or any another brand ,substitute for tha National number. Is there a different size seal for the 218 and 230 size engines? Anyone have any replacement numbers that are available.?

Tim Is that paint stripper the chemical type that heats up like Aircraft Paint Stipper or the electrical type that heats up like a Heat Gun? I have both to use but would not want to cook the exposed paint on the top of the fender with a heat gun?

Corruptissima re publica plurimae leges." ................."The more corrupt the state, the more numerous the laws." Cornelius Tacitus 55-117 A.D.

Rodney I sure do like those Fuzzy Dice especially since they are purple. Be careful that ride might attract women.

The check is more than the purchase price. You deposit the check in your bank and send a money order for the excess. They cahs you money order then in a couple of weeks your bank tells you the original money order was no good. Then your bank takes the money from your account to cover the original bad money order.

Thanks for the info guys. I think I found one and only 50 miles away. Seems the yards around here scrap anything older than 10 or 15 years. Tim, I'll check with ECI Monday. Frank

I need to replace a leaking proportioning/combination valve for a 1986 Plymouth Voyager minivan. None available from any supplier so I figure to use an adjustable aftermarket. Will the adjustable valve handle all ranges of pressure that could be needed between the disk and drum brakes? Any other considerations in selecting this aftermarket valve. Thanks, Frank

Good thoughts for your recovery Ruth. I believe that you having a goal of wrenching again will help your recovery. I just had to take it slow so I didn't bust a stich after my hernia operation. Thanks for sharing, Frank

I meet a non forum neighbor who is in need of a gas tank for his 48 Dodge since his leaks. If anyone has one or a source for him getting a new one please respond here to me. He drives his ride almost as much as Coatney so he will get good use from a reliable gas tank that he can fill more than 1/2 full. Thanks, Frank

Well another end of Summer has rolled around and Carol and I want to send you greetings from the heartland here in Ohio. We only had to take a short road trip to find this sign. You can see I am off to work and Carol kisses me goodbye. Then it's her turn to carry the lunch bucket. Hope you all had a pleasant holiday as we did. Carol and Frank http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fky5dy3qZOFs4ynTfygi3Q?feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/t-FODyLN0UNNHH7TPE6qxA?feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/d8P42lUB17bmVCR8V71jcA?feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DimuIMLdMcp2ptP93FnrLQ?feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jtUEvlRz2ZgAFJ4j2IaZDw?feat=directlink

It seems Tucker was ahead of his time but I did not know how much. Local designer Reed Viemister, worked for Lippincott design, named his son Tucker who now is a automotive designer in Manhattan. http://www.laubly.com/1948tucker.htm

I got a lesson in not applying too many coats of primer. As Doc says too many can cause cracking of chipping. About 1 mm per coat of wet primer is an estimate. I hear about 4 coats is plenty and finish up with 400 grit wet sandpaper. Too fine of grit will not give the tooth the paint needs to adhere. Do not put to much catayst activater in as that can over catalze the primer and also cause it to crack.

Hey Reg You de'Man. I'm envious. Try the link above again and it will show you full article. Frank

Yes Greg That was in last Sunday in the NY Times. Good article. I could not figure out how to send the link to the Forum. This week Carol showed me how so see my latest post.

Cool boats to match your finned rides from the 50's http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/16/automobiles/collectibles/16finboat.html?hpw

My electrical automotive expert says alternators and generator get hotter if painted black. He does not recommend painting them black. The original color was silver I believe.

for my house's back up battery supply. Soldered lug ends with propane torch. Then used NAPA 727622 Heavy walled , ADHESIVE lined , HST(heat shrink tubing) to seal them up tight. Adhesive makes a nice bead around cable and lug so you know no moisture or air will get in. I made a video of the process since I spent so much time doing them. It's unedited but if anyone wants a copy PM me. When edited it will be on You Tube. I'll be famous. Frank

Yes I have done a lot of block sanding of the first and second thin primer coats that were guide coated. I have used, by hand, the long board with 180 grit as per Rubber Seal instructions with no burn through. I understand your explanation of use of heavy build as giving me more primer to sand off to get the surface smooth without burn through. Sounds to me like I can continue priming with thin, spray able coats to get same result as one high fill coat. Yes I will be using Medallion sealer activator 777-8 . Glad you in California know about Rubber Seal made right here in Dayton, Ohio. Must be good stuff. Thanks, Frank

I spent a lot of time block sanding the body but thought I get a better paint finish if I put on a high build primer as the first coat. The high build is difficult to spray on wet even with a No. 2 HVLP gun at 45psi going in to the gun. I am using Rubber Seal 790 with 5% slow reducer. Temp is 78 F. If I reduce it more then it goes on wet but I feel like I am losing my high build even with 3 coats. Do I really need the high build as a leveler since the body is smooth?

Thanks for the info. Nice to know as all my ride are 15 inch tires so that is half the matchup required.

On rust that appeared after sandblasting and before conditions got good enough to prime I used Rust Treatment(encapsulater) by Permatex. It's rumored that Walmart has a generic.

He's from OHIO where gearheads have grease on hands and clothes, naturally. Honest hard working people.

Now you have your priorities right,John. Work less , drive more . Life is too short. Maybe sail more too. Frank