Robert Horne
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Everything posted by Robert Horne
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The MC is a 1975 Mustang II. I used the original push rod from the 48, with an addition hollow rod from something in my workshop. The L shaped bracket is just a piece of angle iron. I drilled a hole into the original 48 bracket , added a couple of washers for spacers.
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Thanks Don. I will give it a test drive soon, see if I will be happy with it.
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Have been working to add a little more modern master cylinder. It is working good. The MC is a rebuilt Mustang II, $16 from Advance Auto. I left the original MC in place, and added a longer push rod through it.
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The Dodge I bought this summer is titled 1949. Has the body style of the 48.
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All right, now I know where to get 2 more wheels.
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Wanted to see how low my Plymouth could go.
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Don, you should check your lawn tractor to see if you still have wheels. Dirt road use,,,,,,slow speed,,,,,,
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Found 12 inch wheels that will fit my 37/38 Replica Dirt Track Car. Looks very small compared to a 14 inch wheel.
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I won an auction for a 37 four door part car, $300. I paid about that much for two rear fiberglass fenders, a few years ago for my 38. Now I can have metal fenders on my 38, and put the fiberglass fenders on the 37. What I see on ebay now is one part can cost as much as what I paid for a whole car...
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On my 48, the passenger side seems too tight or too loose. I tried switching bearings, and drums around, but end up with same situation. I believe the passenger side was drilled out just a little different.
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I had a 50 Fastback just before I went to Vietnam. One of my favorite cars. The guy should put on the "wheel skirts". If I did not have 5 projects going, I would buy this car. I have a 56 Flathead that would be very nice sitting in it.
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I replaced the rubber on my Coupe's windshield and other glass also, several years ago with Steel Rubber company products. I did not buy the Vulcanized. I used Urethane windshiel/glass sealer to join the ends together. Still looks very good today..
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I have never applied body filler over primer. I use a MIG welder for patch panels, always grind metal surface to a good clean, rough finish, apply bondo-glass, then filler. My theory is warm filler, warm metal, applied on a warm day.
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This is my last addition, 1948/49 Dodge, bought this summer. Runs very quiet.
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I have used the Duraglas brand of filler for years. The shelf life of this is alot longer than 6 months. I recommend only using a thin coat of this as a base layer. This type material is more difficult to work with than regular filler. I have a little left in a can that is 7 years old, still usable. I just just bought a quart of Bondo brand of "Bondo-Glass", $13. Fibrous Glass strands suppose to give it more strength than "light" bondo.
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Try a 3rd row seat in a Chevy Surburban, about 50 inches wide, not so deep. Have one in my 38 Coupe, looks real nice.
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Tire age and identification of this bias ply tire.
Robert Horne replied to fedoragent's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I bought a couple of new tires a few years ago. After 1 year the tires showed some cracking. Checking the date code, the tires were over 3 years old when I bought them. Maybe a good idea to check out the manufacture dates when purchasing "new" tires. -
Years ago I bought a moped for my kids that would get alot of MPG. I do not know what the newer mopeds MPGs are. Weight and design are as important as the engine with MPG. Look at the the soapbox derby units, very sleek. Are you limited to what type fuel to use?? Too much power does not always mean more MPG, same goes for not enough power. Good Luck............
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The video says it is an oil base, what would one use to clear coat it?
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I did not see one Plymouth or Dodge. The guy in the blue shorts needs to see a doctor, he sure scratchs his self alot.
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I salvaged seats from a 1994 full size Bronco. Power buckets in front, very comfortable, and the rear seat fits perfect. Not sure which car I will put them in.
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I applied a couple drops of transmission fluid each week for several months. Came off ok then.
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What was the purpose of bringing the top back up since you were going to remove it anyway?. I would have just used a saw and cut it off.
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Working on my brakes on my 48, I bought new axle/wheel seals from Napa, but they only had one. I found the Napa supplier, and the supplier that supplys them. The seal came from Zhiengang, China. I ordered more seals from the company in China through another company in China. The China seals are stamped, "USA".
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The rubber mounts on my 38 were very hard and brittle. I used rubber from a boat trailer to make new engine mounts. They look very close to original, and let the engine move a little.