dmulhall

There was a new reproduction on ebay a few weeks ago...probably search and find out if it is still there

hard to criticize such a beautiful truck.. but if I were to make one, he could have cleaned up the engine compartment a little (considering it has had some miles on it and it gets used) not a big deal..but looks a little messy

Awesome job! And even better looking unit! Great to see our trucks represented so well! Thanks very much!

When looking at the main jet, which number am I suppose to be looking at? Both carbs have a 270 along the edge, then a 4 or 5 digit number above it...does that make them 270 jet sizes? Stupid question, just didn't know if they were part numbers or jet size...?? If so, does 270 sound right for a 251 engine?

I did measure it, and they were both the same 1 9/16" I think? Sound right?

curtousy of google maps haha someday I'll make it! Suggested routes 2,745 km, 29 hours Prince Albert, Saskatchewan to 20800 Brandt Rd, Lodi, CA 95240, USA 3D2D 2,997 km, 32 hours SK-4 S and I-80 W Driving directions to 20800 Brandt Rd, Lodi, CA 95240, USA 3D2D

So I'm running a IND 251 in my b2b I had a 218 and transferred everything over to the 251 not knowing and looking at them, the carbs looked almost identical but the bigger engine seems to always be starving for fuel in the higher RPM's the model number on the carbs are (from 218 that I'm running now) DTF1 6-629 (from 251 that the bigger engine came with) D6K1 6-429 from having them both apart and on the bench, I cant tell a difference in any of the sizing. Bolt pattern is a little different going from carb to throttle body, but other than that I think they are the same. Even have the same rebuild kit part number.... The reason I'm running the carb from the smaller engine is because it was recently rebuilt and was in much better condition. But if the engine is suppose to have the other carb, I can always rebuild that one... Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance (as always)

its about half and half haha the guy I bought it off of 8 years ago, painted it with (what I'm thinking was rattle can tremclad) and alot of it is flaking off. It has kind of a satin finish now with the top of the hood and fenders down to the old paint. I kind of like it that way, call me patina paul haha

:Dmy first car show with Old Blue.. it was a beautiful evening, 28 degrees (celcius of course, 84 fahrenheit for my american friends) only dodge truck out of about 140 vehicles...not only the only pilothouse, but only dodge truck period... good night had by all

I'm running ac delco plugs currently *holding my head in shame* only because napa had to specail order the autolite plugs

took this pic while visiting my mom's grave of all places haha

well, I was on my way home from picking up my son from school today. I came to a red light to make a right hand turn, went to shift from second to first and it felt like the shifter was jammed in neutral. Right away I thought a linkage came loose or off, or was stuck on something but then let out the clutch and it was in first..so I limped it to a side road, played with it a bit, didnt get anywhere so I drove it about 8 blocks home in first... I have a 50 b2b, converted to a 251 ind, 3 on the tree... I'm getting better mechanically as time goes by (getting older) but I've never had a transmission apart. I tried everything I can think of; rocking truck back and forth, lots of wiggling the column shifter, unhooking the linkages and trying to shift it manually from under the truck, but its jammed... The transmission always shifted flawlessly, no signs of any trouble, always shifted into gear without grinding, always drove nice... I'm a little stumped, so a little help would be greatly appreciated.. as always, thanks in advance guys!

Could be just a minor flaw in the casting?? No expert of course, just my opinion, I have seen somewhat of the same thing on old tractor blocks... Wire brush on drill or side grinder, clean with brake clean, jb weld it and forget about it (in my opinion)

In the few minutes I had to "play" last night I marked the pulley With a felt marker, then tried to line up #1 wire on the cap...the points are closed however and aways from being open So I'm going to have to play some more...maybe tomorrow when I'm home again Thanks

So when I did the engine swap I changed the crank pulleys (thin belt to thick) and when I removed the head today to check the valve's (again) I noticed that when it is at TDC on the pulley, the piston isn't right to the top yet Then when #1 is at TDC the mark is about 2 or 3 inches out...?? Is that because the crank pulley is from a different (218) crank? So then when it is at TDC this throws my timing way off... No sticking valves that I can see..?? I'm going to try and figure out how to post pics from my blackberry

Thanks to everyone for your input and suggestions. Ya, when I had the head off to check the valves I should have pulled the pan and popped out a piston. I can always still do that again, but when I had it off the cylinders looked good, no carbon on top of the pistons, except for a slight bit on #4, but the spark plug was clean. I also fogged the engine with seafoam so that probably took care of a lot of the carbon (if there was any). There isn't really any ridge to speak of. There is a little discoloration where the ridge would be, but nothing that I can feel or pick at with a fingernail. Do you think if I do have a few stuck rings (low compression) it would cause the stumbling, bogging out and exhaust noise through the carb? Thanks again Dave

I'm young and dumb If it did have, where would they put it? I don't think it does, I think its valve timing because it bogs out so bad if you step on it, you can't floor it or it will probably sputter and stall...if you give it gas lightly it still has the exhaust noise through the carb If I had sticky valve guides, would I have noticed it when I was watching the tappets? Would the valves not be really noisy? I'm a truck driver so I have too much time to think haha Most of the time I way over think these things One guy also told me that the rotor might be shorting out down the shaft? He said mopars are famous for this? I don't know...never heard of that, but like I said...young and dumb or "inexperienced" haha

Yes, it has vacuum advance...checked that yesterday...I don't really know what to check for, orher than being dirty, stuck, or grimy...it moves freely seems to working good...clean I briefly checked the tappet valve clearance..if anything they had too much clearance... I have a feeling that the cam isn't timed properly...maybe a few notices out..but I'll have to find a friend with a puller to pull the cover off... With the exhaust noise in the carb it has to be something like that...I guess its the most logical place to start...???

I forgot to mention, it has 40+ pounds of oil pressure on a consistent basis, even hot =o)

Here's the story... 6 years after my original 218 spun 2 rod bearings I found a re-built (so called) industrial 251 out of a Massey combine for it. This engine looked pretty good (other than being repainted with a brush and it has been sitting outside under a tarp for the past 8? years. With a limited budget (young family) I brought this engine home, pulled the oil pan (clean), switched over everything from my old engine (flywheel, carb, both manifolds, dissy, coil, cap (new), wires (new), put brand new plugs in it, and plopped it in. When I first started it, it was blowing out the carb (enough to get the pass side windshield dirty), running rough, and I thought to myself stuck intake valve. So I pulled the covers (clean inside) and found a stuck intake valve on number 1, stuck a big screwdriver in there and PING, down it came. I then let it run and watched all the springs and tappets, all were working well. I had a old friend of mine come over and set the points with a "dwell" meter? (Kinda over my head) and we set the timing to 2 degrees btdc. It was still idling rough and will not rev above around 2,000 rpm. We also did a compression test and found #1-32 #2-37 #3-62 #4-57 #5-65 #6-55 My old mechanic friend thought I might have a few stuck rings, and maybe some rust on the cylinder walls. He said dump some seafoam in the crank case and drive it for awhile and it will probably straighten out. I've put 54 miles on it now (idling around town basically) and it has improved some what, but it has a exhaust sound out the carb when you rev it up a bit. It stumbles under load, bogs out, and doesn't do over 35 miles an hour. It is starting pretty good, idles better than it did (still misses and vibrates a bit. Could this be from the cylinders with low compression? Why would it have the exhaust noise out the carb when you rev it up? Intake valve? I had the head off thinking it was a burnt valve and they all look good, and are seating properly when it turns over with the starter, cylinders look good (no ridge to feel),. If I do order rings for it, do I get .010 over and trim them to fit need be? It doesn't have any oversized piston numbers stamped in them? I did not pull the pistons out yet to look at the rings yet. I'm kind of pulling my hair out... Timing chain off one notch? The only thing not new in the ignition is the coil, but does it sound like a faulty coil? I also noticed that when its idling, the ammeter needle will bounce a little bit back and forth when it stumbles, is this normal? Sorry for the book, just a little frustrated...I love this truck so much and havnt been able to touch it since we've had kids... Thanks guys in advance for your past help and much more in the future (as I foresee)

Did you have any end results? I'm having the exact same problems Thanks

Thanks for your time guys

B2B my apologies...2 small cylinders...1 1/8th, if my memory serves me correct??

anyone have a napa part number handy for rear wheel cylinder rebuild kits? I've tried to order these before but always end up using bits and pieces from them all to make complete kits.. Thanks in advance Dave