FarmerJon

Sure, but he didn't mention doing that when putting it to bed, and I am of the mindset that it is better late than never. The oil that spashes up on cylinder walls is mostly scraped off by the rings, so the remaining film is (relatively) quick to evaporate off. The only downside is that it can be a little messy, smokey and, in theory, an etra cost ( but who here doesnt have an odd quart or two of sacrificial oil, you know, that 0w20 you have nothing to run in?)

If you wanted to be extra diligent, you could pull the spark plugs and put a couple drops of oil in each cylinder before spinning it over. That will give the rings and upper cylinders a little lube. It will smoke a little for the first couple miles, and you may want to spin it over before you put in the plugs back so that they dont foul.

As much as I like engine cleaners and Italian tuneups, I dont think they will get any of the soot out of the tailpipe(s). Some soot is natural, but if the weber is giving a better air/fuel ratio, it should be much slower to build up. I would fashion something that you can swab out the tailpipe with. Think gun brush, but broomstick based. You may be able to find a bottle brush of the correct size at a hardware store or on Amazon, but a rag stapled to a broomstick would also work. I would get the exhaust nice and hot, then stick the wet swab up the pipe a few times. Of course this will only get it clean for the foot or two before it loops over the axle, and you may find that black water from deeper in the system still runs out. Maybe a few cleanings will remove enough of it that it isnt splattering your bumper and garage floor. Good luck!

Sorry if you have already said, but have you put a fresh set of spark plugs in, since it started running rough? Last fall my car picked up a light miss that would clear up at rpm, but power was down. I blamed the carb for loading it up. So I put a rebuilt WA-1 carb on it. Same problem. Pulled a couple spark plugs, they were around a year old, but clean and gap was fine. Problem continued. In frustration, i pulled out ALL the spark plugs, and inspected them with an eye loupe. #5 had a hairline crack in the inner insulator, allowing the plug to ground out. Fresh set of plugs and all better. Have you done a compression test on the engine?

I am moving, and it is time for me to clear out my storage unit. I do my best to accurately describe parts, but please take the time to look at the pictures, as they best reflect the condition. I am happy to ship most parts. I welcome payment from Venmo, Cash app, Zelle, paypal, or USPSMO. Please PM me with any questions, comments or complaints. Open to offers, you won't hurt my feeling. I have more pictures that I can email if you are interested. #4. Compression-milled iron head- 25" Mopar Flathead. Head is from an early '60s industrial engine, milled by George Asche. I don't know how much he cut, but he intended it to be paired with the cam and 3x1 intake. I checked the chambers when I first got this, and recall them being around 86CC, or around 8.5cr on a 251 engine. Head had not been cleaned before milling, I sandblasting it mostly clean, but it could use a bit more clean up before paint. I would like $200 shipped for this. Pic coming soon. #4 Core engine-25" Mopar Flathead six, 251 CID. Bypass oil style block. Early '60s Chrysler industrial engine. Engine turns, but a few valves stick. Stock size bore, clean but worn. Comes with factory rear sump oil pan, and tin valve covers. Block has an industrial style front motor mount truck, it may work with some trucks. I am including a passenger car style "floating power" front mount plate. This should set the front mount up for Desotos and Chryslers. Comes mounted to an engine stand. I would like $200, picked up in Lynchburg VA. Shipping or alternative transport will cost extra and be at buyers expense. Sold pending funds #1. George Asche AOK Triple intake 3x1-Fits 25" mopar flathead six engines. Has complete Truck/early car linkage (passenger side) but I believe that it can be reconfigured for the later car (drivers side, pivot on head). The three D6H1 Ball&Ball carbs were rebuilt by George Asche, and look very nice but a little dusty. I would plan on treating these as very nice cores. I would like $1200 shipped for this setup. SOLD #2 Split exhaust manifold pair- 25" Mopar Flathead. These were made from a factory exhaust manifold with heat riser pad cut out and plated over. These need to have the gasket flanges machined, they are fairly eroded. If needed, I can have my local shop fix them, but it will be an added cost. I would like $125 shipped. If you are also buying the intake, I will take $50 for these and ship together. SOLD SOLD PENDING FUNDS #3 George Asche Reground performance cam- 3/4 Isky style grind, Like new. Here is what Tim Kingsbury described the profile: "we used what many call an Esky 3/4 race cam. " "This is what I today call, a fairly mild cam and we likely sell the most of these. I suspect part of that reason is as I talked about earlier, that people think back to those lumpy, poorly idling v8 engines with wild cams.. The .380 lift cam is going to give Fred 4500 rpm quickly. Its been around a long time and has a quicker rev over stock and was used historically for stock car racing. As you can likely figure out by reading this thread so far, we likely sell the most of these because most guys think they want power..... but..... they want to start it and not hear the engine running or running like a sewing machine. Tons of guys call this cam a race cam.. For me, its far from that. The tech side = 242 degrees of duration and .380 lift" I would like $300 shipped for it. SOLD

I think the part that I highlighted is crucial. It isn't poor workmanship to use sealants on in-spec surfaces. I will often stone a surface flat, then use an appropriate sealant on the (actual gasket material) gasket, especially if it is an assembly that I hope to never open again or is below an oil/fuel/coolant level. Oil pans, transmissions, rear ends. Anaerobic sealant is nice for installing lip seals, to insure oil cannot seep past the outer seal case. I do occasionally wonder how "tight" the original tolerances were on some of these parts. These carb lids probably started out only but so flat, and after being installed and the first few heat cycles, they can get out of hand. There is a reason that many hot rodders (and a few manufacturers) back in the day preferred to build on "seasoned" engine blocks. Foundry technology has greatly improved in the last 100 years, even though the workforce of tradesmen has drastically declined.

Whooo boy, that thing is crusty. Does that advance plate move freely? An ultrasonic cleaner does great getting all the crust out of the ball bearing pivot. Hopefully, fresh wire inside, with everything clean and lubed will fix the issues you are having. If not, at least you will know that the distributor is OK. Manual calls for .008" max play. If you can feel much slop at all, it may be worth setting up an indicator on it to see if you are in spec.

The problem with using sealant is that it makes it difficult to remove the top after applying. Seems like no big deal, but if you ever need to make a float adjustment, prime a dry carb after winter storage, unstick the vacuum piston, or for the hot rodders among us, change jets, It really sucks to replace a lid gasket every time you have it open. It is also possible to bend the lid when prying it off of a sealed surface. Just make the flat parts, that are supposed to be flat, flat. Its no big deal.

Rock Auto lists it as SKF 99226.

I dont see the set on rock auto, but I see just chains, If 251 chains are the same.

Not sure what make carb you have, but all the ball&balls and the Carter WA-1s I have rebuilt have a faint gap around the throttle plate. Even removing the plate and reseating it only gets them so good. I don't think it makes a difference for a single carb set up, I have no problem achieving a 475 rpm idle (manual transmission, maybe you have a different spec) With these old cars, chances are that it isnt just one thing wrong, it can be a little bit of everything. You can check for intake leaks by spraying carb cleaner at the suspected leaks, and if Idle changes, it is leaking. I would check for air leaks and rebuild the carburetor, then reassess.

It is almost easier to pull the whole distributor, than to install points with it in the car. The distributor drive is a tab, so you cannot get it "one tooth off", just right or 180* out. Once out you can get a better idea of whats going on. I would check that the advance plate can freely move, and that your vacuum advance isn't leaking.

My factory dipstick reads full with 6qts. With the filter. Better to be a little too full, than sucking up air.

Sam, I don't think that the factory service manual does a good job showing this area. There is the overcenter spring, but also the clutch pedal pull back spring, and the brake pedal pull back spring. Mine were all wrong, so had to figure them out from scratch. The clutch pull back goes from clutch fork to a bracket on the bellhousing, and the brake pullback went to a small u shaped bracket on frame near the steering box.

The bearing retainer gasket sets the endplay for the input shaft. A home made gasket would be OK as long as the endplay is checked. The "Best" gasket set runs around $30 on ebay, and all the seals are available from Rock Auto. Why not reseal the whole thing while it is out? For the bolt grommets, I suspect that they were molded in when new. For my transmission, I used liquid thread sealant on the threads, and black RTV under the head of each bolt. Everything clean and dry, of course. My transmission also had 2 or 3 of the lower tailshaft housing bolts "sealed" with the bolt grommets too, and I did them the same way. No signs of leaks yet.