FarmerJon

When installing my clutch, I measured the 4 bolt 217 flywheel and the 6 bolt 230 flywheel, and can confirm that the 230 flywheel is around .065 deeper. This means that a 217 flywheel would be that much further from the starter drive. It could be fine, but also could cause problems. I chose to harvest a 3rd flywheel from a spare 217, that was in much nicer shape than my original. Now, the 217 flywheel on a 230 could be machined deeper, or as others have done, the bellhousing could be machined. A 230 fw could (in theory) be used on a 217, but a shim would need to be made up to push the ring gear away from the starter.

You may want to make a hole where I made the blue circle. I believe the shift rail protrudes through the case slightly when in its forward most position, i would worry the gasket covering the hole might keep it from fully going into gear. Yes, the lower 1" is only supported by the trans, it is not touching the bellhousing. You could certainly remove it for a cleaner look.

Rich, This is incorrect. 11.10 is 11 inches, one hundred thousandths. Thousandths are 3 places. 0.001" equals one thousandth. 0.010 equals ten thousandths. Not trying to be rude, but it is important to get the measurements right. 11.10 is a LOT different than 11.010. If you persue this endevor, I would worry that this will be a reoccurring issue. You will be dependent on your customers to get the drum measurement, and more difficult, correctly convey it to you. I think you would have better luck if you offer a complete service. IE customer sends you their old drums and shoes, and you clean, turn, measure, reline, and arc. Maybe offer paint and pressing in bearing races+seals at an extra cost. But this is MUCH more shop set up, and sourcing friction material. I am glad you are willing to invest in keeping this hobby, and these old cars, alive and well.

I believe the gasket is made so that it doesn't matter which side you put against the bellhousing. If you are making your own, you could get rid of one of the red circle holes, and cut out the blue scallop opposite it. The yellow holes match holes in the transmission, but nothing goes through them. Maybe you could route the speedo or parking brake cable through one of them, but they are unused on my car. I am also not sure what purpose the bottom split serves, it makes no sense to me... If you use brown paper bag, I would use a anaerobic gasket dressing on it.

Looks good! Make sure you don't forget to install the trans to bell gasket. The front of the transmission will puke all over your new clutch otherwise. Do your rear motor mounts have a metal plate on top? Mine was not installed, and the rear mounts were drastically sagged, even though they were only 10 or 15 years old. Of course I am missing the factory item, so I just substituted a 2" body washer. See part picture 9-71-12

The truck bells must have a touch more space in em or have the clutch fork windows laid out differently. I was able to use my die grinder and a burr to cut the clearance I needed to install everything. I forgot to take a victory picture with the transmission in. I used ARP SBC pressure plate bolts (3/8-16, 1" under head length) part number 130-2201. They were almost perfectly flush with the back of the flywheel when installed. Yes, my flywheel was already drilled for the 10" pattern. Very convenient. Looking at factory American (Chevy) diaphragm clutch set ups, i see flat throwout bearings getting used. I wont stress about it, especially since the trans is already in. I used a nos "Green" USA made bearing that i cleaned and repacked. I will get all the linkages (and OD wiring harness) installed tomorrow.

Scott, I assume you installed this clutch in your truck? I am having trouble installing it on my passenger car bellhousing. The pressure plate will fit with no clutch disk installed, but with the disk in place the PP hits the clutch fork windows, and cannot be lined up. Anyone else had this issue?

I was hopingto help, but the clutch I am pulling is stamped 1669

It seems that the housing market is dead for the year, we are going to survive here till spring and try again. So in the meantime, it is back to working on the Plymouth. Besides, its my only car now! It has been running sweet ever since I replaced the spark plugs. So naturally, I had to go and make it inoperable right away! Yesterday I started on installing the BW Overdrive I rebuilt last spring, and a fresh clutch. I got the old transmission out with little fuss, other than I had to sacrifice a section of my exhaust that ran across the tail of the trans. I will also be installing a fresh clutch linkage and less worn out shifter linkage. Found why the transmission leaked from the front: whoever installed the trans last did not put the gasket between it and the bellhousing. Today I am going to get the clutch out and maybe the flywheel. I am also going to replace the rear motor mounts and start cleaning and repairing all the wornout linkage bits.

I started with zero interest in stock cars, wanted to hotrod the world. As I saw and owned more cars, I became interested in traditional hot rodding, which I feel better preserves the charm of the old cars, instead of turning them into a 1990s minivan. Even looking at '70s+ '80s vehicles, I like upholstery and accessories that match the style and age of the car. Of course they need to be faster, but only to the point to make them fun to drive, because no matter what, they will never actually be fast. If a guy wants a fast car, with all the modern amenities, just go get a mortgage on a new Challenger/Mustang/camaro etc with the performance package, it will be cheaper in the long run and you will actually get to drive it, instead of it languishing in the garage for decades being built.

I expected them to suck it up and not act like little bit ches.

I may need to do this mod, as my lowered front has already killed my stock shocks. They lasted less than 5000 miles, 3 years.

I am sympathetic, FB is an absolutely garbage website, that somehow brings out the worst of everyoneyou know. Also, marketplace barely functions.

Well, it is nearly time for me to wrap this thing up. My wife and I have decided to make some big life changes: I have quit my job and we are selling everything and moving our two young boys and us to southeast Asia, for the foreseeable future. Unfortunately the Plymouth cannot come along, so I am going to tidy up all the loose ends I can, and get it sold. Luckily, the area we are going has a big vintage car scene, and mechanics, paint and upholstery are affordable. Unfortunately, it is a slim chance that the Plymouth replacement will be even a distant relative of anything this forum is about. Over the next couple weeks, I will try to keep this updated because I habe a lot of work to do! SO! All that out of the way: What have I gotten done the last six months? A few things. I got the dual point distributor and Mallory "best" coil installed and working. After some trouble with the battery, and a reckless 12v to 6v jumpstart or two, I installed a new, larger 6V battery, a NOS autolite solinoid, and a set of custom 00 gauge battery and starter cables. A new battery hold down, some stickers and some red paint has it looking right at home. It spins over faster than ever, so I am very pleased. I swapped back on a fresh B&B carter, because I could not tune out the off idle stumble. It had been built by a self proclaimed expert, but is a total mess. So after a few months of poor running, leaking and being a jet too rich, I finally found the time to sit down the the 413s WA-1 again. Poking around I found that I had mistakenly put the accelerator check ball in the wrong spot (under the vacuum piston is NOT where it goes) Unsurprisingly, the off idle stumble is gone, and am happy to be rid of the Ball & Ball once again. I have been chasing a misfire since installing the B&B, I assumed that it was loading up the plugs, but after going back to the WA-1, the miss is still there, although better. I pulled and examined all the spark plugs, and found that 5 looked good (although a little rich) but one had a small crack in the insulator, right by the electrorode. A fresh set of plugs, and she is back to running like a top.

I have hunted old catalogs and current parts suppliers, and can't find a replacement for the "hook" side of the trunk latch. It is broken on one side, and cracked on the other. It doesn't have much left to give. Anyone know a part number for this piece, or a place that might have one? I guess I should call French Lake....