OUTFXD

2-3% mileage increase may not seam like much, but on a vehicle that gets 50-100 MPG 2-3% increase is actually pretty significant! (Replying to the video)

I love that video! My favorite part is at the end where he is all quite and contemplative "I could release a bitchin Ytube video, but I might get disappeared by the CIA"

Well said! Well said...

Not the "fish system" but it is what I was thinking of, Cant remember what the system was called but Ill keep looking and update when I find out. Keep me informed as to what you find out. After my stroke in 2012 I shifted from modifying cars for horsepower to modifying cars for milage. I had a 93 Geo Metro with 200,000 miles tjat got 56 MPG standard and a one time best of 62 mpg. Mainly through Streamlining and driving practices

I think he is reffering to the "fish" carberator system, that allegedly got 30-60 % fuel mileage increase on a v-8 before the inventor got a visit from the government and the carberator vanished ovbernight.

Trying to figure out the "why" of it all. the brakes started going soft so I added some DoT3 brake fluid. Then They failed. I rebuilt the master cylinder, with NoS components, cleaned it out with Brakeclean and added fresh DoT3, the new components failed nearly immediately . I wouldnt think brakeclean would dissolve components. is it possible this was caused by a "pool" of brakeclean in the master cylinder? Also... DoT3? Not interested in repeating this issue again.

so... Took the Master cylinder apart for the third time. Please remember that this is a NOS item, with less than 10 miles on it. and honestly, it failed in about 2. This is the seal that goes around the outside edge of the piston.

Pulled the master cylinder, tried turning the return valve over but it wouldnt lay flat, returned it to its previous position and it fit perfectly, The brake fluid is full of little black particles and the seal on the piston is WAAAAAY more pliable than it was when I started. is this normal? Using dot3 brake fluid FYI

okay. new problem. I put all the new parts in the master cylinder, ran new brake lines. Pressure built emediately and I had a firm brake petal. Took her out for a test run. I made it 2 or so miles and suddenly the brake petal went to the floor. Total loss of all brake petal pressure. I figured I had failed to tighten one of the new brake lines. Went out this morning. took a look and the master cylinder was low on brake fluid, but didnt appear to be leaking at any of the lines. I refilled and pumped up the brakes. It took some doing, but it built pressure. ass soon as I let off the petal all the pressure went away. Scratching my head I went to top up the master cylinder again and I noticed the whole top of the brake cylinder was wet with brake fluid. I pumped up the brakes. Held them. and nothing happened. But when I released the brake petal, a stream of brake fluid appeared out from under the master cylinder cap. Quite a feat for a not-topped-up master cylinder. I did some observations and it appears to be building pressure INSIDE The brake fluid reservoir, then releasing it out the cylinder cap when I release the petal. What in the world is going on here? HELP!!!

The Cylinder bore looked okay, Felt around with my finger and it was absolutely smooth, No scoring or pitting.

(sorry for the blurry photos, my camera didnt want to focus on the piston) Everything LOOKED alright, seals where soft with no tears, Looked new...ish. On closer inspection of the piston, the leading edge had a chip out of it and it (the chip) was lodged in the seal.

Finally got everything appart. Clean up the parts and what do I have? Looks like it has been recently rebuilt. The Piston is alluminum interestingly, stamped "Built in USA" and "Wagner". My "new" one (a NOS piece) has Brass color but not quite that heavy, Coated steal?

I notice Jacquiline acting fuel starved in hot weather. That corn syrup gas boils at a lower temperature that 1946 gas. The engine works good till it gets warnn then begins to act fuel starved. I have actually seen fuel bubbling in the fuel filter. When the gas boils it gets pushed back through the fuel system so when you shut off and goto re-start, you have to crank for a good 15 seconds before fuel hits the fuel bowl. Make sure your heat shield is in place, Check your fuel filter to make sure it isnt flooded, and yes, check the pin in the fuel pump.

still working on the master cylinder. Got the floor pan out, Cut the hoses, Got the pedals removed. cleaned off all the muck and now the flathead screws that hold the dust boot collar in place wont come loose. Used an impact hammer until the the heads started to deform, sprayed down the threads with PB blaster. sadly the collar prevents me from getting a good grip on the screws with vicegrips. Short of cutting off the heads and drill and taping the master cylinder, what can I do? Just kinda looking for tips and advice while I let my head decompress.

Time to rebuild the master cylinder! Got all the bolts loose except the actual brake lines. as soon as I put a wrench to them, I could see the jaws on the wrench flex rater than the bolt showing any sign of moving. I went to town and got a 3/8 f;arenut wrench. Put it on. same result. a little more pressure and it starts rounding the nut. Having just soaked everything down with brakeclean, I was a leeeeetle hesitant to put the torch to it. I figured give it a day or two to dry off so I dont burn down my car and put it to the experts. How would YOU go about loosening the nuts? and on that topic I am not interested in putting damaged nuts back on the car. and while I am at THAT, might as well replace all the hard lines sooo... anyone got a good source for brake line kits for our cars? (1946 Plymouth Special-Deluxe with the 218ci engine and a three speed)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174544617217 For my 1946 P15. Wont fit yours, just throwing my hat in the ring.

Sorry. I just assumed at this point everyone knows what my car is LOL. I promise to do better

Does anyone have a parts number for a master cylinder rebuild kit from a reputable company? Like Standard or Raybestos?

Make sure to oil the Speed-o-meter as well. it could be that the speed-o-meter was binding up with the trans pushing the cable causing it to twist and break. I just shoot some dry silicone into the cable port on the back of the speed-o . I have heard there is a pair of wicks that need to be oiled as a part of maintenance. But I am not sure where they are.

No no no. You dont want to install that raido! You want to give it to me! I kid! I kid! That is a beautiful radio though In my car (Key word, car). there is an L shaped braket the bolts to the stud on the back of the radio, the rest bolts to a cross brace that goes from the dash to the firewall.

Lately, I noticed Jacquilines Brake pedal doesnt want to come up from where I push it to brake. I would use my toe to bring the pedal back up, and it was quite stiff. The Zirk fitting for the brake pedal was filled with 70 year old grease and wouldnt accept new grease. I took it off and soaked it in solvent, the cleaned it out with a drill bit (No drill attached just a drill bit). I got it cleaned out and put it back on. Put fresh grease in the pedal pivot. It loosened up the pedal, but it was still staying on the floor. I opened up the master cylinder and found it empty even though I filled it last weekend. I checked all four corners and found no traces of leaky bake fluid. I have a leaky front main bearing seal so the master cylinder is soaked in oil so I cant see any obvious signs of a leak. I filled the brake master cylinder and drove to the corner store (four point four miles each way). On the way down the breaks worked properly most of the way, getting squishy near the end of the run. On the drive home it was back to the pedal near the floor and not wanting to return. I havent checked but I feel it is safe to assume the master cylinder is empty again. So one of two things is happening. 1) the master cylinder is leaking and it being soaked in oil is hiding the evidence. or b) the wheel cylinders are leaking inside the brake drum. My question is this. If the wheel cylinders where leaking, wouldnt there be tell tale signs of the leak at the bottom of the break drum and on the wheel/ tire. Or would it hold the fluid until someone pulled the drum off? Ive never heard of such a thing, but it has been decades since I worked on drum breaks.

That is certainly ONE way to annoy the neighbors!

On closer inspection I can see where the spokes for the top where cut off and polished to fit so you are correct!

Congratulations! Now get out there and enjoy you car!

Mine doesnt have a top half and doesnt look like it was broken off or anything. I have to assume its a difference in... year? Trime level? Model? not sure.