OUTFXD

Doing a new oil pan gasket to try and fix the leak I created last time I did an oil pan gasket. Noticed a slim wirerope wrapped around the base of the crank pulley. I am guessing it is from my last V-belt failure. I am now worried about the integrity of the front main seal gasket. The local parts hause doesnt even have a listing. I tried looking online. Anyone have a Parts number I can search?

Well. I have revisited this. I spontaneously tried the "Push the clutch in" test. a couple experiments in and I found Clutch in no vibration. clutch out Vibration, but only in third gear. I am currently playing with the adjuster and have managed to lessen the vibration. Not entirely but an acceptable amount.

Okay, I am almost through Gathering parts. Question hit me. I know "Electricity doesnt care which way its going" What about Relays and H-4 Bulbs? Do I need to wire things backwards (Positive Hot Negative Ground) or is just matching red to red and black to black sufficient?

Okay, Got my Toyota endorsed headlight kit, Got my 6v H-4 bulbs. All sorts of ready to start installing. A thought occurred to me BEFORE I wv as neck deep in the project (A rarity for sure, but it DOES happen from time to time). I am Pro Relaying the headlights, especially as EVERYTHING (Horn, headlights, brake lights, EEVVEERRYTTHIHNNGG) goes through the ignition switch and I am keen to get some amperage AWAY from the switch. Will the relays that come with the kit work on a 6v system, would relaying the system require 6v special relays, or am I totally safe Plug and playing the existing the new bulbs into my existing harness? Edit : Read further down the thread posted by Sniper and read about relay issues caused to Sam Buchanan and ended up ordering the Bosch 6V relays.

I also noticed that in item specifics the required voltage is listed as 12v ... That is one heck of a good deal! Thanks!

Anyone have any experience with these? Last I heard 6V LEDs where junk. https://www.ebay.com/itm/176062383163?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m161799.l174484&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3015&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=44780323931&trkId=953f5779-c352-369d-be48-2cee33ce92e3&cnvId=700003&recoId=176062383163&recoPos=1

The other day I noticed a fair amount of corrosion on my battery terminals. I tore everything down. Cleaned the terminals with a wire-brush terminal thing. Painted them with Baking soda water. cleaned everything off and put it back together. The starter spun like gang busters! Couple of days later(Literally like three), Starter is dragging again. Out of curiosity I took the battery cables back off and had a good look. There was rust stain on the parts and the battery cable ends where glazed. I cleaned everything up and put it back together. Starter turns like gang busters again. What am I doing wrong and how can I prevent Corrosion and the like in the future?

I ended up using this dipstick, It fit like a glove! One thing. I guess it goes without saying but put four quarts in, then run the engine to fill the oil filter THEN mark the dipstick(mark as low then add 1 quart and mark as full)? Just want to make sure I am doing things correctly!

I'm learning already! I had one of the shorter ones. Do you happen to know what the difference in length is? (How long is one of the long ones vs how long is one of the short ones?) edit Let me rephrase. How long is a short one AND how long is a longer one?

So it finally happened. I have made a habit out of checking the oil. I put the dipstick on top of the engine as I pour oil into the engine. The other day I added oil. and failed to replace the dipstick, leaving it on top of the engine. I then drove off. At some point the dipstick vibrated off the engine and ended up in some ditch some where. Sadly my Google-fu is weak and I am not finding a replacement. Soooo, time to call in the experts! Anyone have a line on replacement oil dipsticks for our cars? Specifically looking for one for a 218 flathead 6 (Not sure if there is a difference between that and a 230). Thanks in advance!

so i finally happened. the hood release cable got free and shorted against the battery and got burned in half. so I ordered a new cable and let the hood down to the safety release. The cable came in. I went out to the car and sure enough, the hood was entirely closed. I messed with it a bit but there doesnt seem to be an easy way to pop the hood with the release being enitirely enclosed between the hood, the radiator, the grill, splash gaurd, and the inner fenders. Does anyone have tips/advice on how to get her hood open again? ps 1946 Plymouth Special Deluxe

Our cars have an issue. After driving the car to operating temperature, especially on a hot day, Turn the car off, walk away for a while. Come back and try to start the car. Guess what? No fuel in the carb. Means you need to crank the engine for quite a bit before the carb sees fuel and will start. This is a common enough problem that many will put an electric fuel pump in simply to "prime" the carb. But why? What causes this condition? Corn syrup fuel (read Ethanol) having a lower boiling point? Surely our cars did not come off the assembly line like this! So. Is there any other work around other than installing a "prime" pump?(I no do electric good) E.G. Heat shields etc Just looking to expand my infoz.

So, not long ago I squished the needle bearings in the rear Universal on my 1946 Plymouth Super Deluxe. It took some doing but I got a rebuild kit, pulled the driveline, and replaced the needles, balls, and caps. when I dropped the driveline I noted that the rear universal didnt have a cap and only the rear had a spring. I was told that I needed to beware of over greasing the universal and that I should only put in an ounce of grease. having no idea how much grease made up and ounce, I coated each ball with a liberal amount of grease. after retightening and retightening the bolts holding the driveline in. she drives SMOOTH, upto about 40. Then a constant vibration builds to distracting levels. I replaced the cap on the rear universal with one provided in the rebuild kit. I replaced the rear spring with one from the kit but did NOT put one in the front universal. I decided before jumping back into it, id consult with the experts. Anyone see something I did wrong? Suggestions? Advice? All welcome!

1946 Plymouth Special Deluxe. I have a "Bypass" style Oil filter. I want to swap/mod/hack etc a full filtration system in. How hard is it to do and what is the best route to go? All advice/suggestions appritiated! Dave

Okay, Turns our the balls where to close together to fit through the opening of the flange. I pushed each out a little bit and it slid right together! Thanks all who provided help!

So... put the new needle bearings and "ball"s on. They didnt want to slide into the slots on the yoke. Seems like the new balls are to big for the slots. compared the new balls to the old ones and they seem to be the same size (I dont have a micrometer). I watched a video on rebuilding a ball&trunion Ujoint and it looked like the assembly just slipped together nice and easy. I cleaned as much of the old grease out as I could. put some fresh high pressure grease in. Not sure where to look next. Haaalp!

So... I found the source of my driveline rattle. Just what I thought it was. the universal sits for several decades, the grease dries up, the needle bearings get dry and brittle. then just driving the car powders the needle bearings. The Front Universal joint looks like it has already been gone through. the back.... the grease is brown and the needle bearings unlubed, When my foot slipped off the peddle the needle bearings just gave way.

Wwlp. Went to put Jacquiline in gear. my foot slipped off the clutch, the engine stalled and there was a notable CRUNCH. Now I get bad U-joint sounds when starting off and at low speed. I talked with my friend and he agreed it was U-joint rattle. I looked online and there where two choices. standard u-joints, or Ball and Trunion u-joints. I climbed under her and sure enough, a Ball and Trunion joint was prominent on the front of the drive shaft. Having never dealt with a ball and trunion type before, I figured I better quiz the experts first! So. any and all advise or tips would be greatly apritiated!

Does it need to be operational for the car to run and do its job? no. However. this is old school tech. The cowl area of the hood is an atmospheric high pressure area. Air flows across the hood at about the speed of the vehicle. Then it meets the windshield. the air them must slow down and change direction to move up the windshield. In the meantime more air is rushing into the area as the car continues to move forward. The cowl vent gives the high pressure air some where to go. As it enters the passenger cab, the air expands. as it expands it throws off heat and becomes cool air. Viola, old tech air conditioning. Its not fantastic air conditioning. but its is better than none. Not important to the mechanical function of the car, but a boost in the comfort and livability, especially in warmer climates. p.s. moar pictures!

Greets and welcomes to you and your car! Absolute beauty by the way!

Pull the breaker plate off and soak the bearing in White Vinegar to free it up again.

I use my 46 Special Deluxe as a driver. Not QUITE a daily driver. I figure the chance of my getting into an accident is greater than zero. My plans to increase the safety of my old car are thus. Convert to disk breaks. 15 MPH bumpers, the hydrolics can be attached to the original bumpers and hidden benieth the Valance so the external view stays the same. and. three point seat belts. To this end I have procured the seat out of a 1975 charger sport (Thats Cordoba to you). I plan to reinforce the frame and seat latch. Bolt the seat to the frame. and run the third strap over the back of the seat. through a metal loop to hold it in position. and bolt the seat belt ends to the 3/8 tube steel that I med my three inch seat risers out of. I figure its enough to keep me out of trouble in any 35mph mishaps I might be in. As my car only sees freeway speed once or twice a year. I figure its enough.

Paint is effectively Solids dissolved in Pain thinner. You spread it out, The thinner evaporates, and when the solids dry you have a solid coating. Back in the day we had paint thinners that would (Literally) dissolve the Blood-brain barrier if inhaled. It made for a fabulously hard coating. Not so great on the safety front. When Worker safety became a thing, limits where put on "Harmfull" thinners meaning that paint had to evolve in a different direction. p.s. Not intending as a "Your wrong" statement. more of a "as well as" thing.

I remember doing the exact same thing (finger tightening lug nuts) on my first car. Got out of the driveway and the tail gave a little wiggle, which I thought was odd. made it another 300 yards and the rear gunner side of the car suddenly dropped. I softly applied the breaks while looking over my shoulder twords the trouble area to see my right rear tire bounce passed me, over q guardrail and into a blackberry bush. After an adventure extracting the tire. I could find nothing broken and realized I had not tightened the lug nuts. I ended up buying a new set of lug nuts to replace the ones that fell off. So dont feel like you have a monopoly on dumb mistakes. We all do it!

Out of idle curiosity, do you know what the spring rate for stock springs are? (1946 Plymouth P-15 or other applicable vehicles)