OUTFXD

I have to admit I am unsure why the brake piston/pedal is not returning fully, I didnt have this problem before I replaced the master cylinder.

Yup! Return spring is in place!

UPDATE !!! JAN 2024!!! MORON FIXES BRAKES!!! Loosened the Brake pedal adjustment and pulled the brake pedal up, Got a stream of bubbles and the level in the master cylinder dropped to about 1/2 way up. Brakes pumped up good. Blead the rear brakes, Got a big cough of air out of the rear gunner side. Pilot side Just blew fluid. a bit concerned that I have to pull the pedal up to feed fluid to the brake system, and the pedal dosent want to stay to stay there.

The temp has warmed up and the rain has returned to wash the snow away. So of to work I go. I bought a new master cylinder, promptly siezed the old Brake pedal pin trying to install it. Ordered a new brake pedal pin but couldnt get the old one out. installed all the interior bits in the old master cylinder after removing all the old parts and honing the cylinder sleeve<?> and the Break Pedal Pin hole. Installed all the bits from the new master cylinder and installed it in Jacquiline. Now it wont build pressure. At all. I checked the technical archives. I found a thread about installing a master cylinder on a Desoto. It referenced "Bench Bleeding" the master cylinder and gave a quick description of how to do it. Me being me, I didnt understand it. Anyone have a indepth description of the process? Can it be done on the car or do i need to remove the master cylinder? any other tips of advice? Jacquiline, 1946 Plymouth Special Deluxe, 218 flathead 6 with a manual shift three speed. Thanks in advance!

Are you sure it is oil smoke? Rule of thumb, Black is Fuel, White is steam, Blue is Oil. Just putting in my 2 cents

"Engine stalls as I approach a stop around 15 mph." Shift down! <jk>

Thats a good think! I will have to check into it tomorrow!

Good suggestion, however some of the edges have cracked, If I where to grind them down I would still have cracks where the C clips are inserted. and I wouldnt feel safe driving her like that.

Break master cylinder on Jaquiline failed... again. Decided to get a new one rather than attempt another rebuild. Problem is the new one did NOT come with a pedal pin shaft. Mushroomed the heck out of the pin trying to get it out of the old master cylinder. I am already tapping into next months funds, just to purchase the master cylinder. The pin is another 125 dollars. Anyone have a cheap short term fix so I can hobble through January? My buddy suggested a grade 8 bolt, would have to get kinda creative with that. Thanks in advance!

I asked before and seem to remember dot 4 Being ok to use. When My breaks Where low I switched to Dot4. In short order my Breaks Failed, I rebuilt the master cylinder with a NOS kit and filled it with the Remaining Dot4. The breaks failed nearly immediately, The Fluid in the master cylinder was a murky black. I rebuild again with a "modern" rebuild kit. Being out of fluid I bought some DoT3/ Breaks worked great, But I had a slow leak somewhere. fast forward till last week. Breaks where again low, I swung by a stab-n-shop. All they had was Dot3/4m0. Potato Tomato. I topped up with dot3/4 and my breaks again failed nearly immediately leaving the fluid in the master cylinder murky black. This time I ordered a NOS master Cylinder. While I am waiting on it to arrive I decided to check the sight. I see references to Dot3 and Dot5, but nothing on Dot4. Should I be avoiding Dot4? What is the Proper Fluid for our cars? (Driving a 1946 Plymouth P-15 with manual breaks) Thanks in advance!

Merry Christmas and a happy new year!

Okay. got time to take a closer look today. tghe L shapped piece is held in place with a spring.

You are correct. Sorry, I just needed to vent.

Took my kid to a dr appointment. He took me out to dinner. By the time I got headed home it was well passed dark. I get out of the city onto a properly dark country road. and I get some jerk riding my tail with those bright white headlights on High Beam and his driving lights on. the glare in my rearview is so bright that I can barely see my instruments, much less the road ahead of me. But I can see the shadow of my car in the trees that line the road, from the light cast by his lights. "Maybe he doesnt realize his high beams are on" I think to my self. An on coming car rounds the bend in front of us and the guy following me dims his lights and turns off the road lights. Car passes us and the High beams come right back on. At this point I realize the guy is just being an A&^ and pull over , letting him bye. I think to myself how easy it would be to run up on his rear bumper and shine my spot through his rear window. I sit back in my seat and relax as his taillights disappear knowing that I am the better man.

Well the bar fell out and I have apparently misplaced it. the little chrome bit on the dash just threads out. what are you wanting pics of?

Jacquiline's windshield wiper knob has always been loose on the little metal bit that pokes up through the dash. Like REAL loose. Like would fall off if gravity wasnt holding it down loose. I bent the little metal tensioner that is inside the knob to try to add tension. but when I tried to put it on, the little metal bit pushed into the dash and fell completely through. Tried to put it back in, but there is nothing to hold it in place. like the only thing holding it there was resting atop the lever on the wiper motor. Am I missing something or is this the way it is supposed to be? 46 Plymouth Special Deluxe 218 CiD flathead six with a three speed manual transmission and a little low on air in the back driver side tire.

was taped up between two other wires, which is why I didnt find it when I was looking at connections. Up graded it to 8g /w shrink wrapped connections.

Perhaps the extra Power drain from the headlights prevents the starter Solenoid from reaching appropriate voltage to switch on and give power to the starter? Also. if you do replace the starter solenoid, be sure it is with a 6v solenoid. I went through three solenoids as the parts number kept being superseded with a parts number for a generic 12v solenoid, which wont work in a 6v system.

Indeed! Jacquiline is like a portable car show. I have had a guy ask me to wait at a gas station so he could go home and get his classic (Pre 70s Chevelle). For the record, she is in way better condition than when I found her, and she will only continue to improve under my ownership. (If not on the way to a concourse restoration, that was never in the cards)

I have thin gauge plastic and "tar rope" to use as a moisture barrier. but I am waiting till I have time and finances to remove the doors, strip and paint them in and out.

Financial issues. I am broke in a big way. I already had the cards and sound deadener. just drop $7 for a plastic table cloth and my interior can pass as complete until I am in a better situation. This is a great idea! Thanks!

The Door cards where ordered as new Items from Ecrater. I looked for a link, but the shop I bought from is no longer there.

Got tired of looking at naked door cards but couldnt afford real upholstery, Wrapped the door card in a $7 wallmart tablecloth and wrapped the door handle in a shop towel.

In my case, not a permanent solution, but one that looks better than a naked door until I can get real upholstery.