Crazyred

I have ordered from him this year and received parts. You can email him as well about inventory and he should respond. He has a large selection of nos parts.

@Porsche 68 glad to see you found this forum. I've seen your postings on another forum but this one you can learn quite a bit about these great old cars and engines from the wealth of knowledge and experience the members share here.

@TodFitch yeah sorry I didn't reference your site ply33.com but that's were I found the gasket numbers. I can now confirm that this mccord 6085 gasket is for the later 23" blocks which are slightly wider than the 33 and 34 years. I did meet a very nice gentleman who has many nos plymouth parts. The 6085 gaskets are in great condition, so if any one is looking for some he has several for sale. @9 foot boxthanks for sending over the leads I will give them a look. On to the next search...........

The 1934 - 201 i have calls for a 602539 for a cast iron head. It had a Victor 886 i removed that needs replacing but can take a Victor 886, Best Gasket 514C, McCord 5766. I located a mccord 6085 not in person though. Does anyone know if this will work for my block?

@Sniper that makes sense on the nuts, I will track down a couple that i need to replace then. How would I know if the correct jet is in place for the BBR-1 439S carb that I have? When I reassemble I will double check the manual choke adjustments. @keithb7 to my novice eyes, inside the cylinders, there is no ridge at the top that i can feel and I can not see any scoring from the top. When I had the oil pan off before I did not see any scoring from the bottom either. Thanks for telling me the new engine size i didnt know how to figure that one out. As for the cooling system, I will make reassemble it as designed and see what happens. If it begins to run hot (in Houston everything has been hot lately) I will adjust as needed. I will try to locate at original housing with the by pass (anyone here selling one?), if not then I will have to buy a reproduction. Question on finding a new head gasket. The one I removed was a victor 886 double sided copper. Victor is no longer made but found some victors and others on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234405352938?hash=item3693a5d5ea:g:KcwAAOSwYTtiIlzg&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4ITmyCj%2B4ZpaNRIyhUFtem2e8YfsApGjCDivh44LPq%2FLbgR7%2FKFl5OvighXZiScG5qC6JetRFzILu62ztXtVaYWK8wQoXpvC6cy02tZ3WqnFTMCx1oXeFaQU4578w04m9yn0%2F788g5j4hgkrej%2FGgmgiPwAoPQctKT0lk%2BMFOAbNyeFYlqDLjrS152z%2FEFNnT7OR9zdeN9GWM5fPwP6gYjDhpUX7y0K6yrilbBu9lYenUgAPas1B3A8uDWm0gsrRFgL3CXxZQcbh7B5ZILWgjvN93Gteh68xPdpdnma%2FW9j4|tkp%3ABFBMkMLSs9dg I have purchased from ebay before but I am hesitant to purchase a head gasket from ebay. Has anyone bought a head gasket from ebay with success? The 1933 and 34 are not the same as the 35 and later, since one hole is offset on the later models. With this my options are limited since these were made just for the two years, maybe? Now why I'm looking for parts, I will check to make sure the engine timing is set correctly with the timing marks on the crank pulley.

Well after several months and reading and watching @keithb7 videos, I figured I would take the plunge and remove the head to see what lies beneath. The disassembly went easier than I imagined and learned and discovered things as I went. First I found that the engine has no thermostat installed. The temp usually hovered around 140 when driving and in the summer heat in stop and go traffic, would rise to around 180. This explains why it ran cooler than with a thermostat installed. I plan on installing one when I reassemble it. I do have a couple of questions, this engine is a 1934 - 201 and this year Plymouth started using the thermostat with the recirculating feature before it opened fully. Since the water pump has the plumbing for this I thought about buying a thermo housing and thermostat to get it functioning again. Does anyone know of a reason not to use this system? Also found, was this engine has pistons that are marked .060 over. (what would this make the engine size now?) I suspected the engine had been rebuilt but this confirms it. I have read boring an engine to .060 and larger can lead to engine cooling problems by creating excessive heat due to the larger boring and less metal material. Could this be why the thermo was not in place? I was thinking of installing a 160 degree in case this is true. Once I removed the head I noticed the build up in the combustion area. It was extremely black and the plugs were shot as well. I assume this is from running rich and or timing being incorrect. I cleaned the top of the block carefully to remove all that I could. Two center cylinders have not been cleaned. Bought a valve removal tool that is very handy and made the valve removal easy. Doing each cylinder at a time I removed each valve, cleaned all carbon deposits and then lapped the valves. I found 3 or 4 that were sealing or partially sealing, all others were not sealing well. This is the exhaust on the #1 cylinder After lapping all the valves (a first for me) they all cleaned up well and passed the gasoline leak test. At this point I assume they are better off than when I started. I do need to replace the two lower exhaust manifold studs as they are badly rusted. The nuts I removed on all studs are brass and 1 of them was stripped out, being a soft metal and over torqued. Any reason to go back with the brass type or I guess why were they used to begin with? Also flushed the radiator and block as suggested in previous posts and the fluid was surprising very clean. I appreciate any and all suggestions!

bought my 1933 replacement at tanks inc and very pleased with it. I had the filler neck modified but only because I was picky about the length. This is what they offer for your year. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=226/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd226.htm

That's a great story and a nice restoration on the bike.

@desoto1939 thanks for the parts list. If I'm able to find the correct sleeve I'll contact Les if my current spring doesn't work correctly.

Congrats Keith! Glad to see it back on the road again. Thanks for taking us along with you, it's been a pleasure to watch and learn!

@Sniper thanks for that link now I have an idea of what that looks like. I have been searching that same part number from Tod's site with no luck or the search bots are blocking the good results. @TodFitchthanks for confirming the identification of what the part looks like. I had no idea as none of my service books had any close up drawings of it. The link article, someone had mentioned that it looks like a ford part as well. Might go down that rabbit hole to see it anything turns up. Also there is a part number of 601303 embossed in the sleeve. I'll give that a search as well.

So the spring arrived and installed it on the sleeve and it's not going to work with this configuration. As i figured the spring pulls twists the assembly to one side and taking it out of alignment. So the hunt is on for the correct assembly. If i can't find one then i will have to figure out how to attach the spring to the guide bolt to pull straight back. Anyone have a spare assembly for this guide pin set up or know where i could find one?

@SniperThat's a great find! Was able to get the bushing recessed further as the original. Test fit a spare Pinon shaft and found that the bushing end deformed slightly. @desoto1939 that tool you have I'm sure would have prevented that. After some minimal filing was able to get the bushing end corrected and the shaft inserted. Slowly but surely making progress in getting things back together.

@Bryan fortunately I had enough length on the shaft and crank hole to accept a longer bushing. I have extra oilite bushings and one of the lengths is .750 (3/4"). The OD is .94 and ID is .751 Let me know if that would work for your shaft and you're welcome to it.

Hmmm, now I'm wondering if that's why the spring was not on this assembly. @TodFitch your site shows part number 620658 for the assembly. A web search did not pull up any results or pictures for me. Does anyone have a picture or diagram of this part?