wagoneer

This is a most impressive build and showcase of your skills even in your part time side project. I know there are many on this forum with such skills, and honestly would love to aspire to these kind of builds, and to “know” the right math to determine the panhard rod length. I am continually impressed and return to read these technical posts. thank you and thanks to all on this forum.

https://houston.craigslist.org/atq/d/houston-1948-chrysler-new-yorker-price/7778009785.html

As an aficionado (and owner of a truck with a plymouth engine in it), I can't get over this motor! It's so exciting. Due to some conflicting circumstances, buying this right now is not possible for me, but oh it's number 1 on my Christmas and birthday wish list. There is something about having an original zero mile engine from 60 years ago. Like going back in time and experiencing it as-was in the day. I posted to this site thinking someone here would really appreciate it appropriately before this guy parts it out completely. I love the original color (we've had many threads on that), the original stickers, the parts. I've seen one other such crate engine on this list in the last four years, and maybe there are more somewhere in warehouses awaiting some government surplus sale.

Original still in crate NOS 230 nominally for a truck but would work and fit into your Plymouth as a 230. https://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/d/trenton-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-230/7780693251.html

https://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/d/trenton-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-230/7780693251.html

https://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/d/belen-1951-dodge/7780970432.html

Can a 1953 b3b starter fit onto a 51 b2b engine? I'd like to convert to the electric solenoid starter?

I was just looking for the same . I have NOT used either but offer below for consideration and stirring debate. uremco reman I found this one Remanufactured b&b that looks the most promising: https://www.jegs.com/i/UREMCO/396/6-611/10002/-1 this Chinese one - Sherryberg seems to be a copy of a Chevy Rochester but looks promising for brand new though the linkage may be off. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832603442934.html

this video is amazing! He really shows well the struggles we go through in a very relatable vehicle to ours. it occurred to me though while I was going through my own stuck valve issue - why bother going through weeks of trouble for a valve when it’s easy enough (using the right set of compressors) to just remove them and give them a good physical scrub ? sometimes they are set in through a bit of age and loosened them up with fluids is a great start - but wouldn’t also be the answer to just take out the problematic valve and clean it up, put it back in?

Would it be acceptable to re-hone the visible portions of the cylinder walls with the pistons in the car?

My B2B 230 engine seems to have been rebuilt prior to my acquisition but it's been sitting for a spell. I'm concerned about the stain marks on the cylinder walls, and worse worried it might be rust spots. Some are black and some have a little rusty look to them. How to treat them properly to get rid of them? I have wiped away some minor ones. I can see the proper hatching marks on the rest of the cylinders. Help and advice please.

Today this post became very useful! My b2b has been sitting for 3 years awaiting my time. I took off the head and inspected the valves, and found that piston 5 exhaust valve was stuck open but would pop down with a tap of the rubber mallet. After soaking with PB Blaster for a while, and not getting anywhere, I found this thread again (where I had posted even!). I funneled in brake fluid and let it soak in for a few hours with some improvement. It was only stuck on a small portion of the valve anyway, so I thought to also scrub it with a whittled down toothbrush around the valve stem both from above AND from below when the valve was tapped down. I put a shop vac hose on top of the valve to suck up any debris, and after a few rotations and taps... SUCCESS! #5 Exhaust now follows the OTTO cycle as it should!!

Hello, I am looking for a new distributor for my Chrysler with 25" block, and I've come up with an interesting theory that I would like your experienced input. I would like to posit that a Jeep willy's IAT-4012 (some used IAY-4012) distributor (see this NOS one) could be converted for use in my 1948 Chrysler 25" block if I replace the cam & stop plate + cap + rotor with one from a spare IGS distributor. Many sites say the Jeeps used IAT-4012 in certain models too, which got me thinking about reusing it my Chrysler 6 flathead. Advantages: - Tons of quality parts for jeep distributors including rebuild parts and NOS parts makes this easy to maintain moving forward. - works at 6v Disadvantages: Need to cannibalize one older distributor. The 1952 Autolite catalog lists IGS-4208A-1 for my 1948 C38, but lists the IAT-4012 for the 1951-52 C51. Q1) Are the IGS-4208A-1 and IAT-4012 inter-changeable? I am positing that they are interchangeable as the straight 6 was so near to the end. The Jeep Willy's / Kaiser uses IAY-4012 and several places online say you can interchange IAT and IAD versions, and the shaft looks very similar to the Chrysler/Dodge flathead shaft found in the Chrysler 6. Q2) Is the shaft of the IAY-4012 the same length as the Chrysler shaft? Is it the same "keyed" shaft? I could swap the shaft out too. I can't find any information on how long the This thread shows the it to be 5 1/2 inches.

https://www.vendio.com/stores/bobsclassicautoglass/product/__template=iphone/lid=34213124 The one 53 says : IT DOES NOT FIT THE 2 DOOR HARDTOP, CONVERTIBLE, STATION WAGON OR THE 8 PASSENGER LIMOUSINE. But then goes on to say contact them and they may have something for you.

have a custom one made - https://www.curvedglasscreations.com/custom-auto-glass