Sam Buchanan

Follow-up; problem solved with new sender. Note; As of this writing, the price shown in the Kanter catalog is for the one-wire sender, the two-wire is considerably more ($97). However, Kanter send a replacement sender for the one-wire version that was sent in error.

Here are the guide pins that I found very useful for installing the pan. They are made from 5/16" bolts and one on each side of the pan was enough to get all the holes aligned so the bolts could be started. Slip the pan over the pins, then hold the pan up with one hand while starting a couple of bolts. Of course, a jack could be used to hold the pan in place.....but that would be too practical....

Rear lower crank seal (rope) and oil pan gasket replaced. Man....this would be so much easier if the car was on a lift......I'm getting (gotten!) too old to be wallowing around under an old car on jack stands with oil dripping in my face. I'l be able to raise my arms above my shoulders in a couple of weeks..... ? Many thanks to the forum member who suggested making guide pins to assist with reinstalling the pan, that really helped align the pan until a few bolts were in place. Very messy job but glad I now know what was in the bottom end, in my case, very little, am blessed with a clean engine. I just hope my gasket/seals don't leak, don't want a redo! Five quarts of Walmart's 10W-30 detergent oil is now in the sump---Wix oil filter mount and bypass filter is on the way from Rock Auto.

Yes, you have some aviation background. We appreciate your service...enjoy retirement.....and your P15!

Update; Below is the oil pan from the P15, very clean with only a thin layer of sludge in the very bottom of the pan. The bottom end of the engine is likewise clean and appears much as I would expect from an engine that has been running modern oil. I'll be refilling with multigrade detergent oil....and probably a bypass filter.

Joe, are you in aviation? One of your posts in another thread looks like that may be the case. I've been building aircraft for nearly thirty years, here are a couple: The RV-6 The Fokker D.VII My brother in Florence is also a pilot and flies a Cessna. Just to keep this P15 related, I found the broken-off tip of the dipstick in the oil pan, no telling how long it had been there. It has now been rejoined with the surviving portion of the stick.

Done. Do the side gaskets get trimmed up against the end gaskets? There're still a little long now overlapping the excess end gaskets.

Joe, Walmart's finest is what I put in the car when I returned it to the road. I'm going back again with detergent since the engine looks so clean. The bearing cap I took off looks really good along with the crank journal. The cam and bottom of the cylinder bores are nice--the 43K on the odometer may be actual unless the engine has been rebuilt. I'm in Athens 45 miles east of your family.....and my brother.

After being prompted by the previous thread about bypass filters and types of oil, I pulled the oil pan on the '48 P15 to replace the gasket, the lower crank seal, and see what sort of mayhem resided in the bottom of the pan. Not sure how the gasket and seal replacement will go, but the interior of the pan was a pleasant discovery. I have no idea what kind of oil has been the in the car for the past few decades but the pan looked just like what I would expect to see in a well-maintained car that has been running modern detergent oil. Connoisseurs of Fine Oils, please inspect this photo and offer your advice as to whether or not this engine is good to go with detergent oil: The only sludge is a thin layer (1/32") in the very bottom of the pan. The remainder of the pan and the engine bottom end look clean. The engine presently has no oil filter but I will probably add a bypass filter. Also, after pulling the clutch cover I found a gasket that I didn't expect to see: Is this standard or something someone added along the way? Thanks in advance for comments.

A beautiful summer evening in a small town in the South.....there is only one proper way to fetch a chocolate dipped cone......

This puller made quick work of pulling the drums on my P15.

Excellent. I ran across the 24755 but the site I was using didn't provide enough specs to determine what it would fit. Thanks for the info, now I need to decide whether or not to install an original-style filter or an after-market spin-on setup....or remain filterless. By the way, there are four Wix filters, all bypass type, that will fit the 24755 mount, each just varies in length: 51050, 51051, 51320, and 51704. As of this writing all the filters and the mount are in stock at Rock Auto.

Ok.....found a ton of remote oil filter adapters......but where did you find one with 5/8" nipple threads for the Wix and NAPA filters mentioned above? What I'm finding are 3/4" and 13/16" filter threads. Maybe an adapter stud like this?

You guys with the spin-on filters, do you pre-fill the filter prior to installation? Lots of great info here, thanks!

Found them. I'll take this under consideration, thanks!

That's good info, Tod, thank you. I'll probably get a couple of 1/8" NPT plugs and remove the shunt.

I can't answer that question because I have no clue what kind of oil has been in this engine for the past twenty years. I put detergent 10W-30 in it when returning the car to service after a 5-year hibernation. I may pull the pan at the next oil change to replace the lower crank seal, we'll see what is in the bottom of the pan then.

True, and the reason I prefer not having the shunt. But I'm trying to determine whether or not removing the shunt will prevent oil from going where it should in the engine. Studying the oil schematic leads me to believe that won't be a problem.....but some of you guys have been working with these engines far longer than I so I'm hoping to hear from someone who runs an engine with both ports plugged.

Thank you for the clarification. Now, please educate me....why would plugging the ports be better than the shunt?

Andy, the bypass loop appears to be connected properly, one end at the oil galley on the block and the other at the fitting on the oil pressure relief valve. Studying the oil schematic it seems to me the pressure relief valve is only for regulating oil flow into the filter. Is this correct?

Ok, better wait for a reply from one of the forum experts, I haven't personally seen that fitting. But the brake fittings I've seen have a reverse flair that mates with the double flair on the tubing.

I realize this may be a topic that belongs in the "Never Ending Debate" section since most folks will have an opinion based on their particular experience. But the 218 in my P15 didn't have a filter when I purchased it and I don't know if a filter was removed or it never had one, it just has a length of tubing connecting two ports on the crankcase. For a car that receives careful maintenance and frequent oil changes and isn't a daily driver, is it advisable to go to the expense and effort to install and maintain a filter? Associated with this inquiry, if the decision is made to continue to drive the car without the filter, is the tubing loop needed or can those ports be plugged? I'm looking at the oil system schematic in the Service Manual but can't determine if oil flow is essential between those two ports. Update: I decided to install a spin-on bypass oil filter, details are in this thread.

Brake lines and fittings at your local auto parts emporium.

Here is the thread where I described how to make a brake adjustment tool and how to use it: http://p15-d24.com/topic/50182-brake-adjustment-tool-updated/

Just for grins I ran searches for the parts listed in the invoice above. They are readily available and listed below are some (not necessarily the least expensive) of the links I found (in same order as listed on invoice): https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-2-2-349.html https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-5-1310X.html https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-2-3-8001kx?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0Jnjv8qK4wIVkp-fCh34jQYOEAQYASABEgIxHvD_BwE https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-2-28-437.html https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-2-40-1521 $318.83 + tubing + labor The tubing should be a stock item at any driveshaft shop: https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/NDT-24-30-42.html