NickPickToo

Beautiful. Can I drive mine up for a fresh coat of paint? The color is almost identical to the Charlotte Ivory from the P-15 charts. My paint wont look that ridiculous this time around. Perhaps when I'm older and wiser.

I was chasing down a knock on my p-15 a few weeks ago and it turned out to be clutch related. In my case the clutch peddle adjustment wouldn't release enough to allow the clutch to fully disengage. When I fully pressed the clutch the knock would go away. From over the engine it sounded like a knock coming from the front to center of the engine, but inside the cab it sounded like it could be the clutch. I modified the clutch adjustments to allow more slack to be taken out and I added a stronger return spring on the clutch throughout lever. This fixed the knock.

Yea, but... this one is very close to the motor used in the Voyagers I and II. How can I in good conscience switch it out?

Looks cool, but completely a pain to get under the hood.

We tested the resistor with a load and it's resisting for sure. Just a little too well. Voltage drops to 2.9V. Dad's trading emails with YnZ to figure out what's up. For the record, we purchased the full wiring harness, alternator, horn relay and this resistor from YnZ and they have been supper helpful anytime we've had questions. I have no doubt we will get this working here soon. Not sure if there is a trick to adjusting the resistance this unit gives or if we just got one with too much resistance.

Dad just corrected me. He tested the switch directly without the reducer and it worked well but with too much power. 12v at full and then closer to 9v at the first setting.

I do not see an amp rating on the fan. Its a Redmond and marked '1605' on the outside near the baring and shaft. There is a faded 72 in yellowish green script on the side. Again it runs like new in a bench test and is very quite other than the wind noise, so I really want to keep it rather than switching to a 12 motor. The switch we are using only has two settings. Its vintage 6v, with the spark reduction '?stone?', but its not original to the car. I have the switch wired after the reducer/resistor. I have tried the fan straight off the reducer without the switch but I get the same results, very slow fan, so I strongly suspect its the reducer. I have not tried the switch without the reducer. I'll give that a try. I have the reducer mounted on the fire wall with a finned cage over it that I made from the regulator housing that is no longer needed with the 12 volt conversion. It looks kind of cool, so I was hoping it would work. The heater core is original and when we took it out of the the housing so we could powder coat the housing we checked the flow(good) and checked for leaks under pressure (couldn't see or hear any), but again its pretty old. Any suggested treatments prior to putting the core back into service?

This was the day I was going to be street legal. Completed the front seat belts and connected all the lights. Everything is working too. Except the brake lights. The electrical part of the brake lights works well when I bypass the brake light unit. Close the circuit and the brake lights light up. It's not working properly through the unit. Maybe we'll figure it out before the end of the weekend.

I'm trying to wire the heater fan. I’ve bench tested the fan directly to a 6 v battery and it works well. I purchased a 12 to 6 v reducer (5 amp) from YnZ that indicates use for heater fans etc. However when I connect to the reducer the fan turns, but very slowly almost like it’s not pulling enough power. I've tested it from the fan straight to the reducer as well as from the reducer through the dash switch to the fan and it's still the same. The fan just barely turns. Is 5 amps enough on these old heater fans or could there be an issue with how we have set up the reducer?

The issue we are having is getting the back of the hood to line up at the cowl even before we try to line it up to the finders, so I am pretty sure it is an issue with the hinge or where the hinge connects. I can get it pretty close, but then it still needs to go back onto the cowl about 3/4 to an inch then.

This is the best alignment we get...without the hinges attached. I am guessing that either the hinges are bent or the front hinge attachment brackets are bent (I did use those a few times to lift the body). Likely the hinge as the passenger side hinge is way out of shape. A 'good' pair of hinges on E-Pay would be $600 so that's out. If we can't fix our pair, I'm thinking hot rod studs and jeep style hold downs, but it would be a shame to break those lines. If I get the funds or find a good pair of hinges at a later date, I could just fill the holes I'd make with the off-model hold downs.

We got the lace tacks out and then put the lace in place. Still cant get the hood quite right. Seems like the passenger side hinge is not working correctly.

Mom shot this when we went for a joy/test ride today. Tried a different return spring on the clutch linkage and had to try it out. Much better. IMG_3619.3gp

This was very helpful. Along with digging out the original bolts with the special washers. Now its just about as perfect as I was expecting. Any tips on getting the screws out of the cowl that hold down the lacing? Are these ones that just need to be cut out?

The backup camera works

Ha. Mom just figured out you can pair a second camera to the monitor so I have to put one of these ugly plate frames on the front too. ?

Backup Camera from Costco. Solar powered camera and 12v powered monitor suction cups on the windshield. I think it's ugly, but mom thinks is beautiful. Dad wanted to put one on the front too. I'd have two of these tentacles hanging from the wind shield and no room to look out. Now I need to figure out the wiring to the lighter so I have a power source for this thing. Could have been worse. They were talking about drilling holes in both bumpers and all the fenders for a sensor system. No positive comments please. It only encourages them.

Sent the car out to Harold's Truck Frame (Novi MI) to double check my front suspension and do a complete alignment. They know these types of suspensions well. It was only away for a day. Alignment is great and they said they only had to redo the side my dad worked on. Now back to putting it back together.

Okay. That makes sense then. I hadn't noticed it in the rear so much before I put on the heat shield. Now more of the air flow from the fan is diverting down and to the rear on that side and may be creating the negative pressure that is drawing the vapors out while it's running but at a stand still.

So, Just how much and what color smoke should be coming out of the engine breather tubes. The one with the breather cap on the right side near the front by the alternator / generator doesn't hav emuch, but every now and then I can see some. The one on the left near the rear of the engine that angles down and slightly back has a slow but steady stream of white-ish smoke coming out. How normal is that?

This worked well. Dont go for all fat washers, it takes a mix of thick and thin washers to fit. If the springs are not on the car, hook one end to a cherry picker and the other end to a bar under the legs of the cherry picker. I couldnt stop thinking that the washers were about to shoot out at any moment, but they held well.

That's the approach we took. There is a truck frame shop near us that understands these types of front suspensions. Just got it back from them today. The alignment is sharp and they said I wasn't too far off with my assembly. They had to redo the side my dad worked on (Ha)

Felt like we went backwards today, but this needed to get done. Also have a small leak from the exhaust manifold I need to fix where the pivot post use to be.

Thanks all. I'll keep an eye on it. Mr.Pete, I'm running with a dual carb set up that uses air filters.

This picture was while the car was in idle and after I had raised the RPMS a bit. There is no visible smoke, but you can see a little black in the splatter. I assume it may be a little oil making it into the combustion chamber. Is this normal for these engines or should I be worrying right now? Idle and rev sounds fine otherwise.