NickPickToo

Sorry Mr. Elder. My cross country days are over. Perhaps club running. I'll try to keep active on the forum in college and I will absolutely make it to the PA auto meets. Auto related question. I just burnt out my second solenoid since working on this car. I'm using cheep off brand solenoids from O'Reilly's. Any suggestions on most dependable 12V solenoid?

Dad laid down the motivation. He says if its not street legal before I go off to college then it becomes his.

Throttle linkage all set. I modified a hardware store 10-24 adjustable eyelet to link the old to the new. The left hand thread side links to the arm on the intake manifold. I replaced the right hand thread side with a longer 10-24 bolt that I cut down to a size that fit the adjusting sleeve deeper and still allows for room to make adjustments. I couldn't easily find a way to shift from 10 course to 1/4 fine so I epoxied (3M 420) the original ball joint over the the RH end. The epoxy is rated at higher heat than the engine will run and the springs act to push this point in the linkage together. The carbs want to push the linkage into the engine - full open -- naturally while the linkage spring wants to push the linkage towards the carb - idle. The tensions from the the carb springs against the tension from the throttle springs makes the accelerator action very smooth. When adjusted, the linkage from the fire wall doesn't interfere with the temp sending unit or the canaster oil can (that I took off for now to have room to work). The throttle travel is set from idle to just under full open throttle. Still need to hook up the cruse control, I mean throttle cable. Now that I know where all the linkage is going to fall, I can design a heat shield to go under the carbs. Technically it can drive now even though I still need to put in and wire the exterior lights. May take it for a spin around the subdivision soon. Oh and the blue tooth radio mod works along with the ability to answer calls hands free.

We plumbed the fuel lines this week and connected the electrical (all but exterior lights) and started it up again. Started right up after sitting all winter and still idles nice. Would have taken it out for a test drive except that I haven't connected the throttle yet. I go to connect it, but no hole in the floor for the accelerator arm and the grommet that goes around it. Measured twice and still didn't get the hole in the correct alignment so the arm was sticky and rubbing against the bell housing. We came up with a way to get the alignment right every time. Make the whole in the floor larger than needed then make a whole in a small face plate that fits the rubber grommet perfectly. Adjust the plate until the alignment is perfect and the arm is moving smoothly. Then lock the plate in place.

I knew I'd be redoing it from the fit ? Dad mentioned something about a wire and two handles may make the job easier. Said not to ask where he got the idea. I had no issues with the glass gasket. We used the one-piece continuous (including center) from Steele Rubber. The bolts that hold the center metal trim (inside and out) ended up being shorter than the manual listed. There is also a single glass windshield you can purchase that looks pretty cool, but it was out of budget for me. It may be a future upgrade someday. There is another product available that is not continuous and has a separate center piece. I cant imagine making that set work.

Looks like its smiling at me.

Question on hood springs. I can not locate a good diagram for the springs. Do they hook from the inside facing out or the outside facing in? The answer I would like is outside in or else I have to redo it. It's not easy

lill by lill

Public Service Announcement: Costco has weather tech all vehicle floor mats in stock (at least the one near us does). These are designed to be trimmed to just about ant size and fit the P-15. $25 for a set of four mats.

Thank you!! I was searching the wrong words (trunk handle glass)

Tough break...you know that glass light cover that's part of the the trunk latch assembly...dad just dropped and broke it. Other than some pitting, it was a complete assembly. Can't get too mad as he's been so helpful on this. Anyway, any leads on where to find one? Now I go to cry ?

Look what just showed up....a matched pair with original bolts too

with front seat

Still here, but not much to report. The garage was just too cold last month. I was able to get some more under dash wiring done, but not worth showing.

Question? What size fitting fits into the oil pressure gauge. Also, what type flare is best for that fitting. The parts manual shows inverted flare nut but with two sizes, 3/8" 24 thrd and 3/8" 27 thrd? Also, is there a high pressure nut and hose solution that would work better.

Mr. Pearson, just have to say. This makes me feel really lucky that I have the basic deluxe with only the basic deluxe horn button and ring.

basically the same here. I will make sure the hole in the rubber gasket is large enough so its not Hugging the plastic sleeve too tightly so that it can float when it needs to

Hmm, the whole assembly turns together so the insulator is effectively stationary. The biggest concern I can see is leaving enough slack in the wire down the shaft to allow for the right to left rotation without pulling the wire connections apart over time. ???

Visited the hardware store today and found a better solution for the horn contact point. Keeping the power cylinder seal because it looks good in the cup and improves insulation overall. Found the general purpose sleeve and copper washers at true value and then used one of the contact points from the old light socket. Will it work? Wont know till I put the front clip back on, attach the horns and drop in the battery. Look's good anyway. I know the horns work because we almost blew our ears out testing them on a 12V battery. Not happy about the three bolts holding the ring in place. parts manual shows 10-32 x 1". It's closer to 3/4"

I'll check often and start priming priming my parents, I mean saving my paychecks.

Where are you that it's -11F

Got it -- 6-5/8"

Until I can find a cleaner solution. I'm using a brake cylinder cover and the inside of a general purpose light socket to create the nut insulator and contact point for the horn button. The plastic points sleeve inside the light socket can be ground down to fit the hole in the steering rod perfectly. Probably better if I used a single point light socket so that the point is more centered, but the duel point socket was available.

OMG -- so glad it's been raining so hard. I cant believe all this info on this tread. Almost got my dad to go over budget and get me one of your 23" heads for my project, but they were gone before I could wear him down. Right now I'm just in the "get it done and out of my mom's parking bay before leaving for college" phase, but I plan on tweaking my engine for years to come. Dad's said one of his dream project would be one of your LS conversions. We'd also like to electrify a business coupe. Perhaps someday. Thank you again for joining in on our forum. The experience out hear is amazing. Many have outlasted their expiration dates by a bit ?.