55 Fargo

You can purchase a custom fit or universal cowl vent seal, use 3m weatherstrip adhesive. These are available from Roberts, Bernbaums, or Steele Rubber. The cowl lacing, for the hood edge is also available from these sources, as is the ever dry sparkplug boot kits, to keep the plugs and there galleys dry. Once you get a good seal on the cowl vent, you should be okay, make sure the drain is open and free of any obstruction. getting the hood completely sealed against rain water leaking by, may be a bit of a challenge......Fred

Roberts, Bernbaums, Steele rubber to name a few. Google search these suppliers, they have on-line catalogues with pricing.........

The stuff I bought is a lighter density, and comes in a 54 inch roll I believe, nice stuff, easy to work with.......Fred

Another testimony for great Mopar engineering and longevity. A used car of 13 years old in 1962, and driving till 1970, a 21 year old car, was probably still in good shape too.......

John, nice car, what years did you own it.......Fred

Hey Michael, why don't you really tell us, what you think? I agree the P 15s are sharp looking cars,and maybe better looking than a Chrysler or Desoto, I am very partial too them myself. I have a C38 Chrysler Coupe, and I am very partial to it too. Now the Desoto in my opinion, "like your's Michael", unique to me, but not everyone else, the Desoto grille in my idea, is absolutely fantastic. Now the lines are similar on all 4 cars PDDC, the P15 is the most compact, the quitsee younger sibbling so to speak. All of the Mopar lines have there pluses and minuses, strong and weak point with respect to style and build. Hey Michahel have you ever had the priviledge to see a 46 to 48 Chrysler T & C Ragtop or sedan up close and personal, or a minty 46 to 48 Chrysler Biz Coupe, those machines are absolutely stunning. Now maybe not according to you Michael, as your opinion is different then mine. Sometimes I think it's best we keep our opinions to ourselves, especially in writing, sometimes has the effect we did not mean to produce. But there again, maybe you just like to have your opinion, and to be recognzed, as you made evident in another thread yesterday..LOL

Get that engine running, she is ready for a defibralation, and fired back to life..........LOL, glad things are coming together Joe, if I were closer, I would have been over there nosin around the past few days...

Yah, prime your carb, once she fires up the pump will do it's job........Fred

1/4 inch foam is an excellent chioce for door,kick panels,and package tray, at leastit worked well for me.........Fred

Hey Ed, watched it on the Speed Cahnnel, as I have Bell sattelite here in the sticks, nice show, hope I can make it.

Looks great Mackster, the color is really gonna fit the theme of your car..........

By-pass the tank, and rig a portable gas can thats clean to start your engine, then deal with the tank. I actually drove my car for a short time with a portable 5 gallon gas can for a tank, before intalling a brand new gas tank. Come on Joe, we want to read about you firing this baby -up, and that she is running great...............Fred PS hope all is coming together for you

I have a 1947 Chrsler Royal Coupe, it has a dry clutch 3 speed trans and 3.73 rear end. The fluid drive was removed, and was replaced with what I mentioned, in 1 way I wish that had not been done, but on the other hand, I like driving the car as it is now, lots of gett up and go compared with a fluid drive set-up, regardless of the trans. In order to convert yours to regular clutch and 3 speed trans you need the bell housng, trans or shorter input shaft. The rear engine mounts need to be moved forward, the clutch throw out rod needs to be shorteed, and not a whole lot more to it. The driveshaft you have may work, but not 100% sure. As has been mentioned, the fluid drive is a very tough piece of equipment, and most likely you have the 3 spd trans, so you are not worrying about the electrcial and mecahnical itmes on an M5 or M6 semi-auto trans............Fred

Hey like the sill mat with the Pentastar........

Hey Greg, enjoying all the pics, any 46 to 48 Chryslers you can find and post.............Fred

Here Joe, here is a pic of how my switch is fastened to the dash of a C38, should be the same as a P15 or D24, but not sure about your P18. It is a little machine screw that goes through a hole on the under side of the dash, and attaches to the switch body to secure it in place..............Fred PS ran ou to take this pic for you, hope you start the engine soo

Ye Old "Plumbers Butt". Used to have a Supervisor at the Pen, he would have more Plumbers butt, pants hanging the more Crazy or stressed he got, was pretty funnny to say the least.........

If all is in good condition, your correct, larger battery cables allow more current to flow, so faster spins on starter motor. Think of it like a water hose, the larger the inside diameter, the more volume of of water per foot, will flow. A 6 volt system does better with larger wire gauge, allows more current flow. This is one reason manufacturers switched to 12 volt, this would allow smaller gauge wiring throughout a car/truck, saving the industry millions of dollars, and maximizing profits, well it sounds good in theory at least................Fred

1 Gauge will suffice, but I had 2/0 welding cable made into Battery Cables, much nicer for starting, combine this with a 6 volt battery with 900 cold cranking amps, and away you go...........fred

Joe, take about 1/2 an hour, drain down coolant, not all, but enough to be below the head. Then wrap bolt with teflon tape and re-install, add coolant, and fire this baby up. I am dying to read that it's running for you, and all is well.................fred

Hey Fireball were heading there next spring for a little family vacation, hope to pick a brake kit from Old daddy same time. -34 c, heck that is unreal, even here it is -5 c or 22 f, in Manitoba Canada, where it is really cold in winter.....

P12 tommy, I installed spark plugs 1 time, slightly too long, it bent them up slightly to close gap some, and run bad immediately. I ws lucky no damage, and pulled plugs, and saw what happened. I have done a compression test, with a fitting the right depth so no problem. But from here on in, will use a tester like Grumpy Coatney's ( Hey Don related to Grumpy Jenkins by chance)..........Fred, PS we could all fit the Grumpy handle every now and then...LOL

That is strange, since you usd a tester to confirm you have power to the light sockets, all else confirms to be okay. I would try a different sealed beam, just to confirm......

The law's gotta do, what the law's gotta do, nothing like a good donut and a steamin cup of coffee, with double cream........

Nah, this is just outside Memphis, roadside security as the King, is rolling back into to town....... thank you, thank you very much