55 Fargo

I'll take it, please PM, and let me know how we can arrange this. I will mod this side to fit if possible.......thanx Fred

Oh for crying out loud, dag nammit, I just went out and bought 3.5 inch 7/16 grade 8 bolts, and now I need 4 inch lengths, wish I knew this 2 days ago..............

Your absolutely correct Bill, I recall everything switching, in my first year of driving 1977, that goes for road signs, speed limits, buying a gallon of gas changed to buying by the litre......etc

Bob, he has had this and other methods mentioned but chooses not to do so, everytime Mikey posts a pic, it's gigantic. Michael reduce your pic sizes, so it's easier for others to look at, how many times do you have to be given suggestions, that you ignore. Now go practice this, and post some reduced pics already.........GEESH

Not sure Ed, the old houses, up here have the bigger 2X4s too. Canada went metric in around 1976-77. 2X4 studs are made here 92 5 /8 inches, you add 1 2X4 on the bottom and 1 2X4 on top, for 96 inches, that way 8 foot sheets go right up. Don't forget we export a huge volume of lumber to the US........Fred

Lumber and building materials are sold by inches, feet, ply wood 4 X 8 ft sheets, from 1/8 to 3/4 inch. Lumber 2X4,2X6,2X8,2X10, sold by the linear, and board foot. Nails screws 1 inch, 2inch, bolts 1/4,3/8, not in metric, unless you want metric nuts and bolts. 2X4s being 3.5 X1 1/2 were standardized long before Canada became Metric. My Father was in the lumber business, and also knew the US measurements for nails being Penny Weights. Flooring and carpet is sold by the square yard, off 12 ft rolls, the list goes on and on. Canada does however stick to the liquid measurement ,temperature, road distance/speed limits, in Metric. I was educated in both, and know both, but prefer Imperial Measurement.........Fred

Some of the Chryslers had a fresh air intake, with the dual deluxe heater set-up. You could have the cowl vent open, and the inside vent door open too, this would allow air top circulate with the dual heaters in winter or cold rainy days. The inner fresh air seection would catch water, and would drain out of a hose through the fire wall. Your basic cowl vent will have a drain line too, but if the vent is open too much rain will get into, and drip onto the floor, unlike the Chrysler fresh air system.

The Canadian Dollar is 99.17 cents US at this moment on world money markets, it has been fluctuating at around par for while now. Commodity prices, our economy, and world money values have dictated a strong dollar. When crude oil prices rise, the US greenback generally follows, driving our dollar down on the world money markets.

The nice thing is this, these modern cross u-joints are a Precision 302, easily available at any parts store...

True, but many industries, such as the lumber industry do not, and the US is not the only country in the world using the imperial system at this time.

Roberts Motor Parts, Bernbaum, and Kanters sells the ball and trunnion u-joint kits for your car, to the best of my knowledge

Wishing you a Happy thaksgiving Rodney, enjoy the family. friends. and cars. Your right about the kids, got 1 riight next to me on the PS2 as I write this, and it's a nice snowfall outside, in my day we would have been out playing in it.......Fred

I am 1 Canadian who hates these coins, well maybe for the car wash, but give me folding money anyday. Another move the Canucks did I still despise is the conversion to the metric system, not sure how they got away with that one.......Fred

Here you go, a pic of my 1955 Fargo 251 flattie with vintage block heater...

I think the intended use is for metal that is rusty, not totally corroded with holes. Dan and Fred Kanter, sell you once, buy forever, just kiddin, there slogan is wise. If you need patch panels then use em, weld them in. But on frames solid floors, heavy metal objects, you obviuosly don't need to be welding in patches. The POR 15, even plain old rusto paint, likes a lightly corroded surface, rather than a slick new metal. Lot's of people use rust paints on less than quailty substrates, were not talkng about filling holes with Bondo, and then painting over....

I think your right Dan, they can be sued either side, by the looks of things....Fred

I would not disturb any firm intact undercoating on your car, unless a repair must be done, and that is not your case. You can paint over it with Rustoleum rust paint if you want. I am sure if your car is kept dry, or not allowed to rot to the grass someday, those floors will be in fine shape many years from now. Save your money for more important things like doo-dads, or high perf upgrades for your car.......

True, on POR 15 and it's intended use and performance. I think Don's car is acrylic enamel, not lacquer, it's paint job is not all that old. I have used rusty metal primer on a bare steel substrate, and, have done body work over it, used lacquer primer over it, and have used 2 k urethane primer over it. Metal primed with rusty metal primer, shot on in say 2 to 3 coats, seals very well, maybe not like 2 k epoxy, but still very well. I believe Mopars of the 40s were painted from the factory with synthetic (alkyd) enamel, which was baked on, repairs were quite often either made with the same enamel or for speed possibly lacquer based products. GM used lacquer, and possibly Furd.......

Tim Adams recipe for inner panels, floors, frames etc, sandblast if possible, or sand and wire brush, acid treat, and primer with Rustoleum rusty metal primer, paint with Rustoleum oil based paint, or use rubberized undercoating end of story. POR 15 is another high priced encapsulator, paint over solid rust, not flaky loose scaly rust. The truth be known, if you clean up rusty metal, and paint all sides, and let cure, all is well. No air ( o2), no moisture, no rust process, or at least it is delayed, until some void will allow air, water, salt to penetrate to start the corrosion process. I have painted some itmes, that still had solid rust, and it is still holding up very well, as my car is driven in summer only, and not in sloppy,slushy, salty, winter weather. I would use Tim Adams recipe, or a paint called Zero Rust is pretty good, and 1/2 the price of POR 15. POR 15, can delaminate too, Rustoleum/Tremclad, sticks like $hit to a blanket, once cure, the trick is to get have good prep, and good coverage on all sides, so as not to allow penetration of salt, crud, rust and moisture to attack. How does that sound Don........

Happy Thanksgiving Day to all my American friends. As it is not Thanksgiving in Canada, it will be KFC and all the fixins, we had our Turkey, Meatballs and Ham dinner last month, oh yah the Pumpkin, and/or Sweet Potato Pies...Fred

Hi Dan, I need the left side, inside piece, (it's round, and has 2 screw holes), it holds on the adjustment arm onto the side bracket, whcih I have. I also need 3 of the littles set-screws, for the same............Thanx a bunch Dan

Thanks a lot Bob.........Fred

Oklay Thanx, will pick some up today