55 Fargo

Today I pulled the driveshaft, it was apparent immediately I had the correct u-joint( Precision 369) for replacement. I brought the driveshaft and u-joint to a heavy duty mechanic shop, they installed the new u-joint, I used a Precision 369 on the front, and a Precision super heavy duty #280 on the rear, they are the same u-joint , one is super heavy duty, and has the grease nipple on the end of the cap. The rear Spicer u-joint had serious wear, and some broken needle bearings, the front u-joint was not too bad, but replaced anywway. The Spicer replacement is a #1320 series Spicer U-joint. I saved a lot of cash by not buying a set of NOS U-joints from an NOS supplier, this is a common joint, and is for 46-48 Canadian Mopar 6 cyl Cars. I will post some pics later..........Fred Total Price, $60.00 Cdn for the U-joints, and $75 Cdn labor (1 hour) for shop to install on the driveshaft, I did the R&R on the car, remember this si Canada, prices are higher here

My 1947 Chrysler 251 engine, has the crank ears on the damper pulley too.......Fred

Very Nice car and pics love those early 40s Dodge Biz Coupes.........Fred

Here is a pic of the rear right engine mount, there is a crack on the side of it, not sure if it is right through or not.

How do like this story, 3 years ago a rear freeze plug blows out, it was brass, but not seated. I pull trans, and support engine, pull flywheel, and then clutch housing, I saw the motor mounts were terrible, but did not buy new ones, should have been done right there and then.........Fred

Don, you better not put these on:rolleyes:, your drivin way too fast for these 1950s ad-dons:cool:...........LOL

Hi Rodney mine are tight, and very worn out, I will replace them when they arrive, and am not going to remove the floor panel, seems to be plenty of clearance without having to do that. I hope it turns out well, I do not have vibration, a slight vibration on take off sometime, my clutch is new, the flywheel machined,and no oil is leaking in there, just figure new mounts are in order...........

Happy Halloween to you to Bob, tonight the eve before Halloween, used to be known as Gate Night, when I was a youth in Winnipeg, lots of pranks, and egg throwing in those days

Hiall, orderweda few things from Roberts yesterday, 1 being new rear motor mounts. The mounts on my engine, are pretty mushy, I plan to swap the new ones in ASAP, and will use new grade 8 bolts/nuts. Have any of you recently changed rear motr mounts, and what difference did it make on vibration, sound or anything?..............Thanx Fred

Thanx everyone for their input. It has come to my attention, that these Porta Wall WW, work best on Bias ply tires, because there outside edges are flat compared to modern radial tires. I ain't gonna go with Bias ply tires anytime soon...........Fred

Thanx Jon, I have read they don't install well on radials, guess the glue is what helps in your case. I know I won't be buying Cokers for a long time, I do need tires, but am going with cheaper tires, that will be blackwall.........Fred

This u-joint Part number is for Canadian 46-48 6 cyl Mopar Cars, the TRW # is 20049, Neapco 1-0153, Precision #369, Spicer 5-153X, and this u-joint is in common use in Chevrolet. I do not have Chrysler Corp parts #, but if anyone has the Canadian 40s Mopar parts listing book it should be in there. Just keep in mind, I have not installed these u-joints yet, and still need to drop the driveshaft to be absolutely sure this is the right animal.........Fred

Hi, is anyone currently using porta wall white walls on there tires, if so are they decent, and how do they install...Thanx Fred

Hi Rob, I bought Precision heavy duty, USA made u-joints, $21.00 each here in Canada. They measure as per correct, this took me 2 years to get to the bottom of this. I should have pulled a u-joint and measured it a long time ago.....Fred

low beam headlights =black(14 gauge) high beam headlights =red ( 12 gauge) park lights = yellow (16 gauge) left turn signal lamp=green(16 gauge) right turn signal lamp=brown(16 gauge) horn wire =green(10 gauge) I used 14 gauge on my park and signal, tail lights, stop lamp, but factory called for 16 gauge........Fred

Just got off the phone with 2 Vintage parts suppliers, both confirm my u-joint application, to be a spicer type, outside clips, overall measurement from outsdie of caps, is 3.218 or 3 7/32, and the bearing cup, is 1.062 or 1 1/16. This appears to be a correct measurement to my u-joints, but still do not have the driveshaft right off, where I can absolutely verify measurement. The good part is this, this U-joint is a Precision part#369, readily available, for about $15.00 each for NAPA brand, or $30.00 each for NOS from 1 supplier, and $75.00 from another supplier. I will be pulling driveshaft soon, and will make sure of the correct part, and will probably buy from NAPA..........Thanx Fred

I did a rough measurement on the u-joints on my car, end of cup to end of cup 3 inches, could be slightly less, and the cups are 1 1/16, should be able to find replacements based on size, these are a spicer type with outside style c clips.

All the best to you and the family Bob, and welcoming your new addition to the family. The next if a Girl can be "Allison".......

I have 2 schematics, 1 from a Forum Member, and 1 from a local Gent, will share them both with you.

Thats what I have been thinking, just got off the phone woth Collectors Auto Supply, they have some at $30.00 a piece, which is more like it. I figure by measuring, I probably will be able to buy tham at some local parts house. Thanx Tim

Last spring I bought the wrong u-joints for my Canadian 1947 Chrysler C38 6 cyl car. I was sold the USA spec U-joints, which is a cross and roller type with 2 regular caps, and 2 bolt down wing caps.These are what are used on US built 46-48 Chrysler cars. On my car, and it is OEM from the Windsor Ontario plant, I have a cross and roller, Spicer u-joint, with 4 plain ordinary caps, the same as modern types. Now I have yet to find a Canadian parts reference part # for these U-joints. I am about to pull a u-joint, take to a parts Guy, measure, and see if I can get some modern equivalent to fit. Any ideas, I was surprised I have "Spicer" u-joints, with outside clips, but may be lucky, if they are a common size being used on some application in the last 20 years. Any ideas or suggestions welcomed.......Fred

Or you can wire into the circuit 2 6/12 V DC-DPDT relays, to incorporate, the rear tail lights as brake lights as well. The relays will allow the signal lights to power on the the indicated side, while at the same time it cancels the brake light to that side. This circuit gives the rear of the car, all 3 lights as brake lights, and allows the signal circuit to work, when needed. You can also wire in an additional relay to create 4 way flashers.......Fred

Hi Neil, my exact sentiments. One thing on this donor door latch/lock, the handle no longer sags, the door shut much better, and the door is actually aliigned to the B pillar a bit better. Go figure, I am thinking the passenger door on the parts coupe was not used as much as on my car, infact both latch lock assemblies had to be swapped in for the parts car, as the locks on my car would not hold........Fred

Both of those cliches are common in this part of Canada, especially with the older folks.

Happened this past Sunday, the Guy who bought my old parts car, was supposed to pick up some of the parts, and did not show, or phone, I wasn't going anywhere, so it was no big deal, and he has done this a few times...