55 Fargo

Others have run the gas and temp gauges with 12 volts and no drop resistor, with no issues. I am wondering too, if it is really necessary to add the runtz into the circuit. I do have a super heavy duty drop resistor in line from heater fan switch to heater, that is a must, as the 6 volt blower motor, draws a lot of amps while on 12 volts, especially on start-up...

What year of Desoto, with a 3.54 diff, and 265 engine could cruise all day long at 65 mph. By the late 50s and early 60s, 6 cylinder engines, with automatic trans and higher geared rearends, you could drive much faster at lower rpms, big heavy cars too. I had a 60 Chevy car, 2 spd powerglide, 235 6, cruise all day at 60-70 mph, same thing with other similar cars. I plan to continue to drive my 47 Chrysler with 3.73 diff, at 55mph, it seems most comfortable at that speed, and I can get away with it hee on the smaller highways. The only thing up here is this, a lot of these smaller 2 lane highways, are the only roads to a few beachtown locations near Winnipeg, and other bedroom communities, and they have bumper to bumper traffic on weekends, so a bit of a pain....

Wow, Tom that's pretty intense......but love it....

Hey Tim, I have a 3.73 rearend in the 47 Chrysler, and do not feel comfortable at 70 mph, she just floats along at 60, no problem. This could be for a few reasons, front end is decent but could be better, the car is much heavier that your 54, so greater amounty of thrust is perhaps required to push it along. Now the truck, heck she has 3.23 gears in the back, and even with the 4 spd, no problem getting to 60 mph, and probably a whole lot faster, but with this solid axle truck front end, and in need of outer tie rod ends not happening for me. At 45 mph, with the 3.23 gears she is barely hummin. 1 car with 3.73, and another with 3.90, was there that much difference, albeit 1 is AT and the other 3 on the tree, wouldn't think the 3.90s would hummin all that much more than the 3.73s....... 70 mph 27.5 inch aspect tire size 3.23 gears=2762 RPMs 3.54 gears=3027 3.73 gears=3190 3.90 gears=3335 4.10 gears=3506 specs just for fun tire size is based ona P215 75 15

Tim, what diff gearing do you have in the 54, doing 70 mph, with a 3.54 dif should be no problem, it's the 3.9-4.30 that things get busy. That car is a whole heap lighter than say my 47 Chrysler, I know those drive the 46-48 Chryslers with 3.54 diffs, at 70 mph all day, no problems, the 8s would be even more so. In my 47s case, it gets a bit scary at speeds over 60 mph, for braking reasons, and I have the little tired 218, not sure what she can handle. Up here I can get away with 55 mph, in most instances. Yes that would make for a scary scenario

I take it you have a 218 canadian built long block, I have this very engine(1951 D40 218) in my 47 Chrysler, 251 was pulled out years before I go the car. Is your engine rebuilt, or a more mature variety? I like the idea of the /6, diz and electronic ignition in a flathead 6.

Gotta love it, set-up for modern day cruising, good on yah.....

Hey bob, because my truck was inside garage at 34 f, she go to operating temp rather fast, its the lack of insulation, a fiew voids like removable floor plate has no weather strip, hand brake hole has no boot, once i have all that sealed, it should be a whole lot better. However it is 10 below, once you get temps below 15-20, things get cold fast. I have used the cardboard a lot in the past, do not use it at all with modern cars, even if it gets to -30... Hi Paul, hmmm, 38 chebby no heat, not much fun, upgrade to the 50 chevy, lots of heat in that old stovebolt 216. yes once this cab is insulated and all drafts dealt with she be much better, Lot of people up here used to install winter t/stats too, usually a 180 for winter 160 for summer, if using ethylene glycol, if alcohol based they used a the lower t/stat no doubt.

hey Wally willing to try either your approach or the other, I have the top ring,gasket and plate, all in good shape, will get braver closer to warm spring weather. I am going to buy a sender soon, to bench test gauge, i am running 12 volts on a 55/56 Fargo, but figure the gauge itself may need a voltage dropper...

Hey all, just got back from a Fargo truck ride, it is 10 below with the sun going down, truck runs excellent, but without any insulation in the cab on floors walls and ceiling, and some voids, it is chilly in there. The heater box is blowing decent heat, engine temp was 165, I would think with more cab insulation it would be much improved, but at 10 below out, I would imagine it would not be anything like my modern vehicle which can get stifling hot inside at 20 below. Were the heaters in the cars nd trucks of the 40s and 50s, really all that wrm, when the mercury went below 0. I remember having some beater 60s cars and trucks, and they were super warm either by today's standards.....just havin fun

Okay here is what I did, fired up ole 55 Fargo truck 251, 4 spd, 3.23 diff, mileage unknown. It is 10 below outside, engine ran excellent with used points, used plug wires, used coil, used resistor, new spark plugs new rotor and cap, condenser is used. Drove for 7 miles, froze butt off, actually my feet, heater works fine, but no cab insulation on floor or ceiling, some open voids. Drove down frozen gravel roads at 50 mph, thought of you Guys, especially those down south, had a moment of clarity, and drove home as the sun is going down, and it ain't no fun if this baby dies at 10 below and getting colder for tonight. These really are great little engines, love how they sound and run....

Nope, I don't, maybe someone on here has an extra they could send you. You may have to either buy a repop, ready to install unit from Roberts or make 1 up, as Wallytoo has done. Have you got the hold down rig at least???

Your car is well equipped Don, rebuilt big block, dual carbs/exhaust, dual point diz, front disc brakes, dual mc. So why not cruise at 70 mph, but the poster has a stock P15, and the stock brakes, he may best at 60mph and lower, until He does the upgrades you have. I know others have rebuilt engines, and drive there cars at high RPM, but on an older engine, might be better off to either do what you have done, or take it easy....

Yup, and why not keep spare parts on the glove box, like I also do, an ignition coil resistor. I have not had points juts up and fail in any car, had wrong or points out of spec etc leading to hard start, poor running, but not down right failure. A lot of my beater cars as a youth all had points. I also know some who have converted to electronic and are happy about it, I would try a slant 6 electronic ignition conversion, those parts should be readily available in many parts store. Hey Unc, stoppin is the problem at the higher speeds, hope your binders are in good shape, hey yall have accurate speedos by chance.....LOL

1 other issue, is braking, and steering, you better have excellent braking and steering doing 60 mph plus on a loaded freeway, seat belts would not be a bad idea either. Tod F mentioned a P15, should cruise at 60 mph, provided the engine is in good internal condition, cooling system, oiling etc. Engines with high mileage, and/or tired, your risk, and the higher the rpm, the hotter the engine temp= possibility for problems. You are in FLA, Charlie lives near Orlndo, and has front disc conversion kits for you car, might be a good idea...

Okay yes, very good question you are asking. What rear gearing do yall have, if 3.90 or 4.11, you are gonna rev, and in the Florida summer humid heat things are gonna get warm, quick, especially on a freeway doing 60 mph plus. Options, install mopar 81/4 diff with 3.23 gears, install R10 OD trans, convert to 5 speed trans, with OD. The tallest tires on the rear, can help a bit, bring down RPMs down few hunnert. Things to consider, ensure engine is up to the task, they don't like sustained high rpm, and super hot temps, espcially if old and tired. I would keep a tired engine below 2500 rpm, which translates to 55-60 mph, not 65-70 mph. Please provide more info, your diff gear ratio, rear tire size, and state of your engine.....

Oh BTW, who is the vendor, if JC Whitney, they have gone up in price a lot as of this year.. today it is $46, plus shipping

Thanx Hank, did not think a sender cared about voltage, am I wrong, though it was gauge that needed a voltage dropper

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I like your sender suggestion, all except fabbing float arm rod lengths. Not that it is a bad idea or anything, but it takes bit of skill and time. With the stock Jeep unit, how far off the bottom of the tank, was it, before you modified the float arm? I have 3 choices, buy a Roberts re-pop to the tune of 100 buck$, buy a universal, and switch top plates, or do as you did. Have not decided which way to go yet, but your idea is a good option......

Here is a pic I just acquired from the Guy that owned this car just before me.My 1972 Duster 340 4spd 4.11 rearend. I had it from 1979-1981, it was super fast lil machine, sure would be nice to have it now, wonder what became of it....

Thanx Moose, hey how much more jam do yall get with a set of headers and double or triple carbs. I would like to do this in my 55 Fargo pickup with 251 engine, it runs well, has good oil pressure, but have not idea how many miles, and it does not use oil...