55 Fargo

I have sprayed urethane primer, lacquer based primer, you name it, to rusto synthetic (alkyd) based primers, with no issues whatsoever, with compatibility, adhesion issues etc. The alkyd based rusto primers, I have used successfully on bare prepped steel, fillers go over this too, once fully cured has no issues with a 2 k product at all. using some rattle can $hit may be another story. I have shot epoxy primer right over well cured Tremclad/Rustoleum paint with a hardener, with no issues either, as well as some lacquer based stuff. The industry years back needed to speed up production, as well today environmental laws dictate VOC limits etc. In other words no production shop has time to wait for old school synthetic enamel primers to cure.

Gonna heat it red hot , then try vise grips, if that fails, weld on a nut, then try, shouldn't be too big a deal. Today bought new ujoints and strap/bolt kit, so ready to go...

A quality Rusto( alkyd) primer and topcoat, reduced with automotive grade reducer, and hardener added to the topcoat. This isa very economical and decent way to do the job. Tim Adams got me started on this, and it works well, f your not ina hurry, the primer once cured can be topcoated with just about anything, including 2 k urethane products, I know this, as I have done this. Eastwoods, POR15 overpriced marketing hype, like snake oil treatments....

Congrats Ed, another set of hands to help you in the shop....

Hey all, have to change the u-joints, at least the rear on the diff, as it has play. The diff is a Mopar 8 1/4 diff bolts are 1/4 inch fine thread, with 3/8 bolt head. 3 of the 4 unbolted just fine, #4 would not come off , not with heat nor with PB Blaster, now the head is rounded off. I am now going to a Buddy's shop, to use the oxyacetylene torch, what a PITA. This old truck has had it's share of rusted in nuts and bolts...

Here you go, 265 flattie powered dragster, so yes they can build HP. This engine would have a few more ponies than the average flatheads on here. Check out the vid in this link http://p15-d24.com/topic/36223-265-powered-dragster/

Improvising like a tru 50s rodder....thumbs up Bro

You have a few choices, buy another set from possibly a forum member, buy custom built headers and intake , from Manifolds by Moose (forum member), Reds Headers, and other vendors, George Asche Venus Pa, builds split exhaust and multi carb intakes from stock sets...

If I could afford to pay for it. I would build a 265, have a good block, just need the rods and crank. Have the usual, mild /wild cam grind, Edgy head, headers, tri-carb intake, and any other item to allow engine to run at higher RPMs. It may not be a 300 hp engine, but would have plenty of kick, wow factor and sound cool too. Hey just woke up, nice dream anyway.....

Good to hear you all got this problem licked. It isn't 95 here today, but it's about 84 humid, hazy like you wouldn't believe. I would say I would have restart issues today, once the engine was good and heated up. I am going to try your solution....

Ken aka Lumpy, all good ideas, and having a blocking plate between the intake and exhaust would no doubt help. The under hood temp on those 90-100 above days, will be super high, would not the intake and cast iron exhast not heat transfer from 1 to the other inspite of the plate, once the engine is shut off. I can see this working well when an engine is running, but most of us do not have any trouble with the engine running and car driving down the road at 30-60 mph. Wrapping fuel lines, and exhaust manifolds, with a heat deflector plate for the carb, should add a lot of protection, too, especially once the engine is shut down. The modern day fuels, are no doubt the main culprit. But really, what were these same veehicle like, back in the 1940s-60s???

Does anyone have a drawing of a proto type for heat shield. I want to build one and give it a try. Greg I also have lowered trhe float, this helps, but "heatsoak" and super high underhood temps, may be agrravating the situation. I do know that fuel can not only expand but boil, creating air pockets, perhaps. I am 12 volts, so it does make a difference. I also changed oil to 15W40 HD diesel oil, that seems to keep my hot engine quiter too...

While I respect what your saying, and I am sure you have a downright hot summers, and your method works well for your car. I do know others have no trouble, some minor amounts of trouble, and some a whole heap of trouble. I don't think some are being modern day whiners, well maybe some, , this problem can be a real pain, when you are sitting at some store or filling station on a hot Juuulllyy day. Really folks, what were these same engines like way back when, on those hot summer days?????

Good score Bob, so Guys, when these cars/trucks/engines, were new 1940s,50s,60s, was this a part of everyday summer heat driving? I have owned plenty of 60s and 70s vehicles in my yoot, but don't recall much issue with summer heat fuel problems. Is this soul issue of modern gasoline or what?

Hmmm, glad this has worked out, I would have thought, insulated cab, which is a good thing, BTW. But with sun shining through glass, my first guess would be elevated cab temps, and insulation to hold that heat in, but seems the opposite. I know your environment is much hotter than here, but the nice thing about your heat is it is not that sickening, muggy slimy, humid heat you see in the deep south, midwest and even up here in July and August, not sure what is worse, the extreme dry heat or muggy hot weather. Up here if it is hot, it is muggy most of the time too. Your clothing is soaking wet in a short time, with this weather, and breathing is even harder too....

Very good idea(s), now, wonder who on here is clever enough to make a proto type complete with instructions of a carb heatshield? I would venture to guess a lot of members would be interested. Heat soak, underhood temps, cause a lot of issues, call it "vapor lock", most likely in a lot of cases it's fuel boiled out of a carb, and fuel line from fuel pump to carb, and/or percolation. Modern fuels, especially anything remotely associated with ethanol, is a huge factor, with a lower boiling point of modern gasolines perhaps. I would venture to guess the carb base heat shield is doing the most in this situation, the wrapped exhaust is helping too, but on a 95 degree day, the under hood temp, and heatsoak is wickedly high as you have attested..

Don, you would be in the house for 3 months here. Winters can be brutal, suppose your new digs are colder than Ole Tennessee.....

Well, bit the bullet, and drove truck just 7miles each way to Walmart, no issues, U-joints are getting bad, gotta change those this week....

Right on Brother south of the M.D. line, guess our heat is just "junior" compared to yours. But yall gotta remeber, we get down to -35 to -40 sometimes in winter. No issues with that ole engine running hot, or any problem with hot starts after a run???

Had ideas, of going to the Walmart garden center to buy bagged soil for the planters, but have had 2nd thoughts. It is 90 degrees, with a humidex factor of 105, think I am not going driving, the old truck flattie can probably handle it, but not so sure about Me.......LOL So what's your cut-off, not drive temp?????

How about you go first Doug. If I ever go this route, will have a 265 flattie, done up as much as the wallet can handle, right now not so much.....LOL I am actually amazed at how much HP and power, the 265 powered rail George Asche built for Tim Kingsbury, now that is performance...

Thanx for posting Bob, hope you and Adele had a great time. It is wicked hot here today and extremely humid. Not pleasant to be outdoors, and skeeters are real bad too....

There is no reason that 1 of these old trucks can run 65 mph all day long, especially with my 3.23 gears. This of course must be qualified by good engine internals. I have another 251 engine here, she may end up being my rebuild core. I would of course like a more modern smoother trans. I still think it would be cool to have an automatic behind a fresh flattie engine, ina truck. How about a 2 spd powerglide.....just jokin, a 727 would fit the bill nicely...

True, old engine, origin unknown, 1 thing, it does not burn oil, and leaks very little, seems to very peppy too. I will drive it, till something happens, which I hope doesn't for a while. Then she will get the "flattie race engine"........LOL

Thanx Paul and Bob, yes Paul there actually is some nice scenery up here, but other parts of Canada are much more beautiful than here....