55 Fargo

TODAYS ORDEAL Here is the ending of this problem and the beginning of another. I brought truck over to a Guy I know who runs a small shop 5 miles from home, he is a mopar man and familiar with the beloved flathead 6. Drop truck off, get the bicycle out of the truck and proceed to ride home, 1/2 way home, get call from guy working on manifolds, he broke my shifter, just like that. I get the rest of the way home, go back in Caravan, truck trans shifting into all gears but shifter spins right around and has no tension. So work continues, 2 long bolts and 1 stud break, nothing he tries at first works to get them out, he drills all 3 out, ruining a few cobalt drill bits. Manifolds get installed, lifter covers get cleaned and new gaskets. Carb and the rest are installed, truck will not run right, getting way too much gas. This is now 8 hours later, I go over to see what's going on, he pulls carb top, and sure enough we bot the see at same time, carb bowl jet is not in it's seat, but laying in the bottom of bowl near accelerator pump, slow speed circuit pump is wonky too. We address this, engine fires right up and runs pretty good. After paying him, drive home, with wonky shifter, but trans shifts well into all gears, truck has a lot more umph too. Here is the best part, 1/2 way home run outta gas, now wasn't this fun. Get Wifey to come with gas can, and away I go, all is well . Then 12 yo son, wants to ride bicycle 5 miles to pick my van at Guys place, we do this, I hauled scrap to the shredder today too, I am whooped....now you see Dave my 6th sense told me this job would be a bugger, Chris who did the job, said it was 1 of his most difficult in many years...,.

Great news, glad to read this today Chris....

Yup and nope, had to work these past few days, and for a few more days, timing is a bit off. I do have everything ready, stud nuts, sprayed with PB Blaster. After the weekend, truck is going down the road to well equipped shop, Me and another Mopar man, will do the job there. He has all tools and equipment to deal with any stud bolt breakage.

Very true, done this very job a few times, and the steps are not difficult. The difficulty is when you break studs in the engine block. Most home shops are not equipped well to deal with this situation. As well, most are not that experienced in bolt extraction, oxy/acetylene torch, cobalt bits, etc. This job is right up there with others that can be a real pain.....

Another interesting read........ http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/best/detgoil.html

Here" an interesting read......... http://www.adlersantiqueautos.com/articles/motoroil.html

Yes block this area off, you do not wan a warmed up engine, on a hot day allowing hot exhaust going up under the carb base. I have now had 2 flatties in a row with this problem, and it is a pain in the a$$. Get it blocked off, and you will be much happier on warm days...

Sorry don't need any water wetter, cooling is just fine, drove about 30 miles tonight, temp 170 all the way. Of course if you unthread a manifold stud or unbolt thos 2 long bolts, the coolant will come flowing out, they go into the water jacket............. PS run 50/50 antifreeze, water wetter does best in water, I really have no need for this stuff....

Because the 2 long bolts go into the water jacket, as well as the studs right. So I do not want antifreeze all over, figured Id best drain it. Right or wrong?

No I agree Dave, worry wort I am. Kids soccer tourney all weekend, plan to start tomorrow or Monday, have to drain antifreeze first, then get at her...thanx for the post

Have done undertaken this "job", yet, as i thought I would. Hope to start on Monday. I have been driving the truck a bit, but not overly far from home. A ? for you more seasoned Gurus, should I be driving this truck, with a heat riser seized in the cold position? The carb gets a good and hot in this weather, could this do damage to any exhaust valves or any other part of the engine? I have never been so reluctant making excuses to not start this job, as I do hate dealing with broken studs in an engine block, getting squeamish in my mature years.....

Brad the Gent that sold me my new used set, has another set. I do not. I can ask Him, to send some pics if you like.I would venture to guess, you should be able to get a donor set closer to home though, any 236, 251 or 265 engine manifold set would be work fine. Just be careful, and you should be able to remove your set without incident, good luck...

Closed hot position, what manifold are you looking for a 25 inch engine type? I could get 1 for you up here, be about $50-$100, plus shipping...

Places that do "tombstones", often do custom sandblasting. The guy around Selkirk charges a $1.00 a minute, and gets a lot done in that minute. Very hot for our standards, another home burnt to the ground right nearby, 2nd in less than a week..

My manifolds will get swapped, my truck does not overheat. It of course will run hotter with heat riser in wrong position, making the carb hot. Water Wetter, is best with water, I run 50-50 antifreeze/water. Today around Winnipeg its over 90f, traffic was heavy in the city, lots of road construction, do not make the ole girl drive through that....

Yes you are 100% correct Dave. A 160 t/stat will oepn around 155, and be fully open at 175-180 degrees, as per most specs. I was just wondering how some of you more southerly members were doing in this department. Engine temps has a lot to do with load, rpm etc. Driving at 3000 rpm on hot days with a load, is going to elevate temps a lot more than driving at 45 mph and 2000 rpm. I was driving tonight, ambient temps low 70s, engine ran at 165 the entire time.....

Today, deflated P 235 75 15 tires to 30 psi cold, they were 35 psi cold prior, and when driven they were 40 psi warm. This has softened the ride quite a bit, those WW bias tires, had a much softer ride, but I was all over the place driving with them...

Is this a case of the design of your 33 Tod, rad out in front and easy to dissipate heat and for air flow on the highway?

Yes, have drilled about a 1/16 hole in mine. I figure 170-180f is about a normal temp range in summerwith a 160 or 180 t/stat. Are you running Premium fuel in your part of Manitoba. I am , to avoid any ethanol, is it worth it though. I have never had issues with the regular fuels in the old flattie, have you? Do you ever have hard hot starts, with your flattie? I have a 6 blade fan, and if I ever need a rad, gonna look at the Auto City universal rad, for $199, can't go wrong..

Went for a highway drive today, outside ambient temp 82 f and humid. On the highway engine temps 175-180 f, with a 160 t/stat, cooler weather it runs at about 165-170. My heatriser is seized in the wrong position allowing exhaust gas to be restricted, this has an extra hot effect on the carb and intake. I would venture to guess this would allow engine coolant temps to possibly rise too. For those running 160 t/stats, what temps are your engines running at in hot weather at highway speeds? I hope to fix all issues related to hot weather driving, I love hot summer weather, and do not want my old truck parked in the shade just because it's hot outside..

Thought I would update this thread. This spring installed new outer tie rod ends, steering box is has a small amout of lash, kng pincs tight, shocks newer. I have greased the front end, and all shackles etc. The spring hanger/shackles, are not seized. I am still running stock springs with no leaves removed. I have installed radial tires, mild SUV type. My truck is like a rough old shopping cart on my gravel road at this time, the road is deeply ridged packed rock hard, full of holes. It does give a rougher ride in a modern vehicle too. But my truck is just nasty on this road, going over pavement bumps and train tracks are not bad. I would like to either remove some leafs or improve this rough stiff ride in some way. I want to be clear, that in no way, do I expect a modern IFS type of ride,infact I do enjoy a truck type ride, but the pounding hard ride is not fun. Any proven suggestions are welcomed, I do have about 300 lbs in the back of the truck now..

Had the truck out today, went to the local filling station. Outside ambient temp, was around 82, very humid. The truck runs well, but at this temp, it appears gas gets good and hot in the carb. I had no troubles restarting with a 12 volt battery and post 1956 12 volt starter. The usual ensues, carb needs to clear, and takes a moment for this to occur, then all is well On the highway engines temps did creep up to 175-180 mark, am running a 160 t/stat. In cooler weather,temps below 65, stays at 165-170, even at 10 below. I would guess the restricted exhaust gas flow, would allow engine temps to climb a bit. Will these flatties engine temps rise, if a heat riser is stuck in wrong position, or does that only effect intake and carb base temps. I have read support for both cases.

4mula, I am on your side with the seperating the intake from exhaust, been there, but did it on the bench with some heat and PB Blaster. I did break off 1 of the 2 bolts on the last job I did, it sheared off close to the blcok, so no fun. I am pulling the manifolds very soon, and will see what adventure I will be on in the process. I also used grade 8 bolts, on the last job, and all is well there too.

Hi Ed, they check out really well for trueness. I could remove the 4 long bolts, but would rather not, if possible. How are the 23 inch manifolds diffeent?....

1 question for those who have done a manifold swap. I have a really nice donor set, bead blasted painted, heat riser in good working order. I do not intend to split the intake from exhaust prior to installing. Have any of you done the same thing?