Jump to content

Allan Faust

Members
  • Posts

    973
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Allan Faust

  1. This might be an off the wall possibility, but could it be an optional "hanger" for suits, etc... like we find in our cars nowadays? It looks like it would be held down with a screw somewhere and that you could hang a coat hanger or something off of it.... Allan
  2. What is the difference between the front and back that would make it "needed"? I'll be checking everything anyways to make sure, I just want to try and see what may be "normal" or not..... like the grease seal leak that was mentioned earlier. Allan
  3. That is one nice truck.... you can be sure that if I'd seen it, you'd know... but I know I haven't. What year is it? Allan
  4. And as for the anchor pins... where are they while you are at it.... Allan
  5. Merle.... you see, I don't know if they were working or not.... one of the previous owners drove the car, but the "next" owner was taking the car apart, and had it sitting for 4-5 years... so I don't really know. As for the grease seal... what is it...?? I know when I got it apart, I got grease everywhere, so it might be my fault....
  6. Hi all... Since I still am a "newbie" at all of this (first time I've seen a lot of things), I never know what to expect and I don't know what is normal or not. I was told in the past that the brakes had been "redone", however, wasn't told when, where, how, or told what was done on them..... My main worry was the good ol hub puller (which I don't have), so I just loosened up the rear "adjustments" pulled the cap, removed the castle nut and cotter pin, and pulled a bit, and the hub pulled right off.... Now, with the pictures shown, does it look "decent" or not? The linings look thick, and on the center shaft, bearings etc... it looks like it was greased real well, and the grease even seems fresh...... what do you think? Need opinions.... Allan
  7. Norm, If my latest driveway joke offended, I apologize... it is never my intention to do so.... that being said... since you've had your car, you have had the chance to drive your car a lot, and I can't even get out of my driveway..... (and if you can find something to chide me with... like undercoatney , or something else) go right ahead... I expect the same in return..... As for the information you offer on this site, its always been a help..... Allan
  8. Also note the long driveable driveway!!! (couldn't resist) Allan
  9. Hi, Welcome aboard... hope you enjoy it here and will post more often. As James mentioned, if you want to look at more details with an engine, take a look at Blueskies site http://www.50plymouth.com/ . Pete detailed his entire buildup... and shows the engine in detail.... As for 12V, there is more detail on 6-12v conversion on the main site, and you can get step up converters on the net. For paint, if you are looking for stuff on "period correct" hot rodding, do some searches on George Barris, Gene Winfield, Von Dutch etc... and you should find lots to choose from.... Allan
  10. Howard, Well I for one, even though it is off topic, and a chebby to boot... want to hear the whole story, right here... and see pictures.... again, right here..... You've piqued my interest... especially on how your handprints got around your ankles!!! Allan
  11. I can't wait..... BTW what did you use for paint on your chassis and on the suspension parts? Allan
  12. It really makes you feel like a dunce when you fret over something that ends up being so simple.... I was so worried about separating the tie rod ends because I didn't have any forks, and my buddies didn't either..... when I got help from my buddy to put the front end, ie control arms (still with wheels on), steering... all tied together, he said just get a bfh?? I tried hitting on the bolt, with no results... he said... no, like this, and he gave a quick whack on the SIDE of the ring holding the tie rod end.... and it popped right out.... I did the other side lickety split (and since my buddy had an impact wrench handy, which is why I didn't remove the wheels... off came the wheels.... so now I'm left with pieces that'll be easier to work with and now for more dismantling, blasting, checking the brakes etc.... Allan
  13. Thanx Pat, that sure should help lots.... its appreciated.... Allan
  14. Well, I finally got around to doing something today (finally some sun), so I took the entire front suspension off....from wheel to wheel..... now how do I get the separate pieces apart?? (Can't see anything through the gunk) and I know that i need the forks to separate the tie rods, but how do I get the upper and lower control arms off, etc..... Pat, I think you did this recently and wonder if you still have pics?? Allan
  15. No comment about you and the BIG back seat Don, no comment..... I wanted to, but I just can't..... Allan
  16. I agree with you on that one..... I know with me, if I get to do what I want to, the paint will look like a 15,000 paint job.... however, it will definitely be getting its battle scars after.... I can appreciate the looks and the money and the "possible damage" that can occur and the fact that some want to keep them pristine, and that is fine, but it is not for me either.... Just like I'd salivate at driving a new SRT-8, or an old original AC Cobra.... I'll repair em afterwards and keep them in pristine shape anyways..... how you enjoy them is your business.... Allan
  17. Bill, Just got your book today, and I love it..... wish it could be bought in Canada though..... Allan
  18. Geez, don't make me feel old... I'm going to be 41 this year... and I thought I was young.... darn.... seems like I'm gettin' old now!!! Allan
  19. My 1950 4 door dodge is a plymouth body... ie a P20, however, since it is in Canada, I "officially" have a D36C. Allan
  20. I started doing mine (read not done yet) and if you weld it from the outside, you still have to get rid of the lip that is there (larger top then bottom two pieces). I removed the spot welds, and filled in the seam, now I have to do some hammer and dolly work to try and raise the seam area to get the curve of the body line... once its brought up to a certain point, I'll be using lead to fill in the differences and give the right curve completely... but in my opinion, the spot welds have to come out due to the lip on the fender itself. Allan
  21. Looks like you did a beautiful job... congrats... and thanx for the how to..... Allan
  22. To me its a coin toss because verts are usually higher priced, but the 36 coupe is probably "rarer".... Allan
  23. The note is in the brackets in my description... ie std transmission. Allan
  24. You mean everyone was sick???? And you wished that on poor Steve??? Allan
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use