Build Thread : Volare front end Experiment...

[48Dodger]

I could have done a Fatman cross member. I could have done a Mustang II front end. I could have done any number of after market x-members, but I decided to experience the Volare for myself.

The front end is in. The final steps are being carried out this week, so I thought I'd share some of the "not so covered points" in putting one of these guys in.

I leveled the frame according to the build sheet. 2 feet.

I not trying to "slam" the truck down, but excepting the normal drop by virtue of notching the frame for the cross member. The frame height is based on 29" tires according to the build sheet on the DPETCA Knowledge page.

Then we checked the frame for cracks, etc. I measured the frame 35" 29/32 from the rear to the rear axle centerline. From there, 108" to the front centerline. At this point we used the frame guage to check for squareness.

That's me double checking the junior hot rodders.

I leveled the frontend using three differnet refererence points. I noticed in a Ford build, the store bought template had an angle build into the design. The Ford build doesn't use the original motor mounts and seems to assume the engine is level to the front end. The original Volare motor mounts have roughly a 2 deg downward angle buildt in. I haven't measured this yet, but with that in mind, I put the crossmember in level to the frame.

The centerline for the the front end can be referenced to the zerk fitting on the upper control arm.

After stripping down the front end, leaving the UCA on, I scribed a dozen or so marks on it til I established the centerline of the crossmember.

[48Dodger]

I used several marks to find the center, and then tranfered the info to the towers.

From this point I was able to center the front end to the frame and the mark for the front axle centerline.

This of course is my personal experience, and hope everyone can enjoy it that way.

48D

[48Dodger]

Stripping the front end of the frame. If you're determined, you'll figure it out. If your wondering what it can look like, here you go. The removal of the front hanger and original crossmember.

For me, a plasma cutter, a grinder, a pick hammer, a hammer, a small sledge hammer, a chisel, and a crowbar. Pictures are worth a whole lotta typing.

I flipped the frame over after grinding the sides. Remeber to check the driver's side of the frame for the "VIN" number, it might be stamped on it, or it might not. My frame is a 1950 and had no markings. the removal of the hangers involves grinding in areas where the numbers may reside. The numbers may not be important to you, just thought I'd warn ya.

[48Dodger]

At this point, we (me and my son) welded a support for the frame, and the removed the crossmember.

Quick story. That hole you see is a perfect critter hole. Remember, that's the bottom of the truck.

As I was grinding I smelled a "grass like" smell. Turned out to be a huge mouse nest.

I forgot about it, until I turned the frame back over and set the nest on fire with the plasma cutter. Wehoo!

[48Dodger]

The rivets are stubburned evil little b*stards. I sent serveral flying across the shop, and I'm sure some are in orbit around the sun. I had to really bang the crossmember out of the frame rails even after it was cut free. Like i said, this is my experience. I'm sure there's a few ways to rip those buggers out, but in the end it was a fun sweat, considering the direction my frame is going.

48D

[Tim Brown]

Thanks for sharing Dodger, I'm getting ready to do the same with my frame in preperation for the C4 front end. Keep the pic's coming on your Volare install.

[Guest Dave Claussen]

The rivets come out easier if you drill through the center of them with a drill a little smaller than the diameter of the small part of the rivet. The rivets are set in the holes with a tool that swells the body of the rivet into the hole. When you drill the hole through it relieves the pressure and they pop out a lot easier. Just a something I discovered when I removed the front spring shackles. Dave

[48Dodger]

From this point, I started leveling the crossmember to the bottom of the frame.

The two cross bars are helping me center the crossmember. the rear bar is over the wheel centerline, and the front bar over the "floor" of the cross member.

Once I was close, I had to do math. The towers are toe'd out. The frame is toe'd in. I measured and re-measured to get the space down between the frame and the tower. I carefully cut 2 "identical" wedges to act as spacers to hold the crossmember in place. I have since had these blocks cnc'd into aluminum for future use. I would like to thank my 5th grade math teacher.

I then clamped everything down so I could begin making my templates.

It was important to do this so I could create a template following the right profile of the crossmember.

This isn't the actual paper template I used, it took a few tries. But this is how I made the steel templates, taping the paper down and cutting away.

[48Dodger]

This the first template in place. I then made the otherside, checked all my measurements and welded the 2 together for an easy drop in stituation for the Dodge frames.

This silly looking thing represents a lot of work on my part, but I had a blast. To test my "jig", I pulled everything off, and use it alone to map the cuts I wanted. It worked awesome.

[48Dodger]

I didn't strip the frame before all this because I wanted to keep the frames exposure to heat down to a minimum. The idea with the primer paint was to show me where to grind. For the actual cut I used a sharpie pen.

I raised the jig up uniformally to locate my notch. after the cut, I rechecked it with the jig.

I cleaned up the edges with a grinder and high speed sander (24 grit). I was pretty happy with the tightness of the cut.

[48Dodger]

To varify the location of the centerline to the fender, we put the cab and doghouse back on and made a few more measurments.

I apologize, the tape is standing in for me in this picture. There was no one to fire the camera off with all our hands working! So we kinda mocked things up to show what we were doing. I was looking for centerline, not ride height. when the bars are back in, the center of the wheel will be lower.

With everything in place, we all took turns welding it up. My son made a nice ugly tack or two. My nephew took on the lions share, and I had fun bossing everyone around.

So that's my story. I have 3 parts to my "jig", and feel confident I can repeat the job with little problem. The frame will get boxed back to the trans x-member, and the rear will see a 4-link in the near future (i'm working on a custom design for the 50' dodge with a shop that builds Grand American Modifieds) or, I may use a late 80's IRS from a T-bird (it ain't mopar, so i'm not sure yet..lol). I plan on having this truck ready for September. If all goes well...I'll be racing it at Bonneville, with members of this site, looking to join the 130 mph club under the name of DPETCA.

48D

[Bob_Koch]

Jim, You've probably given us the most informed pictures and narrative on doing a volarie front end so far. Thanks for the excellent pics and write up.

[51 Fargo]

you will most likely be putting a notch in the top frame rail for the steering box I had to on mine then I boxed the frame in ........ It,s comin along nicely:)

[48Dodger]

Yes, you are correct. I was trying to show other "moments" in doing a job like this. The steering box notch, boxing of the frame and welding are greatly covered in other articles and posts. Getting the cross member straight seems to be the biggest problem for most. Not to mention ride height. According to tech articles I found, there is only about 1.5 iches of play in T-bar adjustments. Up or down beyond that you may lose more performance than is realized. With my jig, I could have dug deeper into the frame to slam it and keep the torsion spec in line. I placed the X-member so it'll be slightly lowered, nothing radical.

48D

[Jim Gaspard]

Excellent! Pictures are worth a thousand words. Great tutorial! My biggest question is how were you able to post all those great full size color shots that each exceeded the forum's general maximum file size. Was this a copy and paste job? I love GTK's forum and format, but posting large photos have always been a challenge for me. I'm not a fan of thumbnails.

Jim in Dallas

[48Dodger]

Merle's post helped me a few years ago......

This is how I do it.

download your photos to the internet site Photobucket.

Put it in a file/album you're happy with, cuz if you move it after posting it, it will break the link.

Open photobucket and the forum window in seperate windows.

cover the picture you want to post in photobucket

right click the "direct link" code and copy it

go to the Forum/"reply to thread" window

click the yellow box with the mountain and sun in it

you might have to "allow" if your computer blocks it

a small long window will show in the left corner...paste the code in

it will show the code in your "reply to thread" window

click on "preview post" to check the photo before posting

That's what I do.

Thanks for the kind words Jim

48D

[Jim Gaspard]

Wow! Works like a charm! Thanks

Jim in Dallas

[dezeldoc]

One more thing, I noticed you hitting the pick hammer with another hammer, that is a big no no. both are hardned steel and one or the other will fracture and send a fragment into something and most of the time it is you. Their is already a piece missing on the pick hammer to prove my point, that and a lump in my leg from doing the same thing about 25 years ago! On to the job at hand, nice work and lots of it. Me I'm kinda lazy so i just pull the motor and trans and slide it under and start measuring, square it up and weld away! keep the pics coming!

[48Dodger]

LOL. Yes, your right Dezeldoc. I've been quilty of a few "no,no's" in my life. Like grabbing to many piceses of pizza, or cussing in front of my Grandma (wasn't fair really, "crap" shouldn't be classified as a bad word). I like Dave's idea. Next time, I'll grind the tops off and dill the center out and try the punch again.

48D

Hey, great picture Jim!

[48Dodger]

Here' the notch for my power steering.

I've been getting a bunch of emails from guys whose crossmember didn't end up straight. Some have even had the centerline off by an inch or more. I followed two thoughts when doing this build: It isn't a ford, so forget those guys....and, use the Body Builders' Layout in the DPETCA Knowledge section. This was one of my replys to a PM.

"Great letter! My build is done. My centerline is straight, and my tires are centered. I've just begun posting the pictures. I developed 3 jigs to get the front end centered and leveled so i can quickly duplicate the build again without excessive measuring. I followed the measurments on the factory build sheet to place my centerlines. centering the crossmember invovled the "bare" towers more than the zerk fittings. I used several reference points. The final wheelbase is 108". I never used the original axle as a reference. Its not a reliable way to do it because of the wear of the springs and bushings. Unless it had just returned from the alignment shop, why trust it? I didn't. One of the reasons I put the frame at the facotry height, was to establish the truck in its "normal" operating enviroment (ie fully weighted) and deviate from there. The final thing I did was place the cab and fenders on the frame before I welded the crossmember. 48D"

All this is my personal experience and wanted to share it. I hope any of this helps, and I'll keep doing the best I can to answer the PM's. If anyone wants to pay me to put one in thier truck, why not. I already have two on the books. I love these trucks and I hope it shows.

48D

[51 Fargo]

wow almost looks just like mine .... when you put steering back in Flaming river makes a UNI steering joint to go from steering box to DD steering shaft

[51 Fargo]

pic 2 tilt colume is out of 80 dodge van

[48Dodger]

Looks Awesome 51Fargo! I remember asking advice from you and a few of the members. You all said the same thing, get it straight. lol. Not much else, just get it straight. I can't tell if you boxed the frame. The one photo I have of your truck, the frame isn't boxed. Did that change, or are you happy with the result?

48D

[51 Fargo]

the pic of the steering joint I just posted show the frame also Boxed in

[Plymouthy Adams]

I do like your thread...shows the amount of planning and double checking of measurement needed to do this type of mod...