John Mulders Posted April 26, 2008 Report Posted April 26, 2008 Hi, got some stuff for the work ahead and then saw a leakspot on the floor. This is from the differential and the car has been jacked up for a couple of weeks. Normally I don't have that much but there is some oil seeping. Questions: 1) is this bad looking or something I should think of repairing "some time". 2) could it be from the car beeing jacked up? I haven't checked the fluid level. 3) I have a fill spot in the back but I see also one on the front. Are there two spots? I do have the one at the bottom for draining. I think that there probably is not enough oil if this leak only shows when the car is jacked up.... What oil would be best for this purpose? If I need to fix this, anyone can tell me whether this is a difficult thing to do? Any parts (like gaskets, throwaway bearings) that I need for sure? Thanks John Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 26, 2008 Report Posted April 26, 2008 Check your oil level and top it off if necessary. Clean the floor and check it again in a month or so. Might be a whole lot cheaper and less troublesome to top it off once every couple of months. Where is your rear shock absorber? Quote
John Mulders Posted April 26, 2008 Author Report Posted April 26, 2008 well spotted Don. That was the small thing I started with a couple of weeks ago, got them off, saw the brake cylinder leak, got them off and ordered new ones and that was my today's job.. Then I saw a new leak.. What oil should I use? Guess I could best drain the old stuff and put new in. John Quote
Merle Coggins Posted April 26, 2008 Report Posted April 26, 2008 Pinion seals aren't too difficult to change, provided you have the proper tools. You'll most likely need a puller to remove the drive flange. Then drill a couple of small holes in the metal ring of the seal, screw in some sheet metal screws, grip the screws with Vice Grips and pry the seal out. Knock in the new seal, reinstall the flange, get the nut Gut-en-tite, reattach the driveshaft, and you're done. Wheather you tackle that project now or not, I still reccomend removing the axle breather (hollow bolt that holds the brake line "T" to the axle). If it's plugged the leak may get worse. As long as the axle can breath the leak may be tolorable for now. Merle Quote
John Mulders Posted April 26, 2008 Author Report Posted April 26, 2008 Thanks, seems like not to difficult, of course I need to order the parts first.. I checked the level, at least an inch below the filler opening. So what would be correct oil? the book say SEA90? John Quote
John Mulders Posted April 26, 2008 Author Report Posted April 26, 2008 Checked that one. The top was stuck and I wiggled it loose. Can turn it around but not take off. Seems like just below that part is the real bolt? If the top moves now would that indicate it is ok or should I take the bolt out to check? John Quote
Merle Coggins Posted April 26, 2008 Report Posted April 26, 2008 If the top cap wiggles that's good, but for piece of mind I'd pull the whole bolt out to be sure it's open. Merle Quote
Guest rockabillybassman Posted April 26, 2008 Report Posted April 26, 2008 My manual states the flange nut is between 250 and 300 lbs! You're gonna need a serious socket set to shift that. Also, is'nt there a crush sleeve in there? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted April 27, 2008 Report Posted April 27, 2008 John, I see your car has those "Rare rock guards" underneath the leaf springs! Also the min. torque on the drive pinion flange nut is 180 ft.lbs. Be careful to prick punch the pinion nut in relation to the pinion shaft. I always mark all three- the nut/the flange and the pinion shaft so they go back exactly as they were. Also if you don`t have a torque wrench that goes to 250-300 Ft lbs you will know the nut is where it was originally then torque additionally to min 180 ft. lbs or some what more to compensate for bearing wear- but not much! Bob Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 27, 2008 Report Posted April 27, 2008 Also, is'nt there a crush sleeve in there? Believe the crush sleeve came into play later. My 1974 differential has a crush sleeve. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted April 27, 2008 Report Posted April 27, 2008 Just shims on the pinion for bearing preload. Quote
John Mulders Posted April 27, 2008 Author Report Posted April 27, 2008 Thanks, I will first fill it up and see what the result is if she is back on her wheels, if it leaks too much I may have to decide for some work. Just want to avoid a major problem just because I added some oil while an easy fix was available. The rockguards must have been odered for the location, I don't think there were many asphalt road here in 48. I also don't have any heater. Could use an airco John Quote
Brendan D25 Posted April 27, 2008 Report Posted April 27, 2008 In my younger days when I worked in a service station the usual way to check a differential for fluid level was to insert your finger to the first knuckle and if you touched fluid it was ok. If not add some until you could feel it. Too much gear oil will cause leaks on the pinoin seal and possibly side axle seals. Mine leaks a little and over the winter it marks it's territory. I might have added a pint in the last five years. Quote
Guest rockabillybassman Posted April 27, 2008 Report Posted April 27, 2008 I bought a new pinion seal for mine but have put off putting it in. Now the cars done a few miles the leak seems to be getting less and less. Maybe I wont bother! Quote
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