Rear brake drum removal

[bob1949b]

I am in the process of doing my rear brakes on my b1d 1-ton ,and removed the axle shafts, my question is how do you remove the large nut inside the hub so I can take off the drum? Is there a special tool or socket to remove this nut? Does anyone know the size of the socket it takes?

Thanks!

[MBF]

I don't know what size socket fits the outer nut, but whatever it is I don't have one. I carefully use a prick punch and a small hammer to loosen the outer nuts. Once these are off, there is a lockring with holes in it that is slid off, and then you are at the inner nut that adjusts bearing preload. This you should be able to pry loose at (screwdriver or similar tool) as it shouldn't be on that tight. Mike

[Dodgeb4ya]

Believe it`s a 2-9/16" 8 point socket.

[bob1949b]

Thanks for the quick response! Our local auto parts store lends out tools, so I'll stop by there tomorrow and get that socket. Thanks again.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I went out to the shop and measured a extra 1 ton axle rear spindle nut off a 52 1-ton and it measures 2.583" across the flat sides of the 8 sided nut. Thats a bit larger than 2-9/16". I cannot find my socket for my Dodge 1 ton so I can only give you the measurements.

Bob

[grey beard]

While it is true that these nuts can be removed in a pinch with a cold chisel or punch when you don't have the correct socket, I am inclined to advise against reinstalling your hubs in this manner. Unlike front wheel bearings on automotive applications, one ton rear axles should have some torque preload on the axle bearings. Check your specs. This preload is impossible to get right if you are using the "heat 'n beat" method of installation. Actually, the correct socket and a torque wrench are desirable. JMHO

[bob1949b]

After going to every auto store in town, not to mention every tool store, I finally found the right tool. Dodgeb4ya was right. It was a 8 point 2 9/16 " socket. I found it at Hoosier Tool in Indiana. He had a board on the wall that had every size from 1" to 6" and everything in between. It was 22.50 but worth every penny. The job is always easier with the right tool! It got up to 77 degrees up here in michigan today, so I blew off work and got my frame painted, rims painted, and put the front axle together. Here is a couple of pics. Once again this forum has been a great help. Thanks all.

[MBF]

That is a classy chassis! Keep the pics coming. Mike

[motorheadTX]

I cant get the rear drums off of a 1951 Pilot house 1- ton.  I have successfully removes the axles but now have nothing to push on with the big puller suggested in  other posts.  The 1 ton removal procedure must be different.  If anyone can offer suggestions and or pictures  on removing 1 ton rear drums,  it would be greatly appreciated.

 

thanks

paul in Austin Tx

[Dave72dt]

That should be a full floating axle with a brg setup similar to the front spindles. Should be a double nut and locking ring of some sort inside the exposed end of the hub. Remove them and the hub should come off if the brake components aren't holding them on. Back the shoes off. Worn drums can have a lip on the inside that keeps them from sliding past the shoes. Don't damage the drums. They are hard to find.

[P15-D24]

Don't need a puller to pull the drum on the 1 tons. Pull the axle, remove the nut and they should slide off. If they are binding you need to retract the shoes. 

[4852dodge]

Once the two nuts and lock ring are removed the hub and drum are removed as an assembly.  Make sure the brake shoes are retracted as they may not let you remove the drum.  The inner bearing might fight it but they do come off as an assembly.  To separate the hub and drum you have to remove the wheel studs.  This is for the 1 ton 6 lug.

[Dodgeb4ya]

You really should read the factory service manual for the way to service this Dodge 1 ton rear axle. It's risky to R&R the drums and hubs in the wrong manner. No drum puller is needed as this is a full floater rear end. You will need a 2-9/16" eight point socket to properly remove and install the double locking nuts that hold and adjust the wheel bearings that retain the rear drums and hubs- just like in a regular front brake drum.. You might also find you need inner and outer hub seals too to prvent oil leakage onto the brake shoes.

Bob

Edited October 18, 2017 by Dodgeb4ya

[ranchracer]

To separate the hub and drum you have to remove the wheel studs.

Just curious, what's the procedure for this? The last joker to tighten the lugs on my left rear over tightened them so badly that each and every wheel nut was stripped and just spinning on its stud. Our last resort was to cut them off, ruining the studs in the process, so now I need to replace the studs and nuts once I get my rear brakes rebuilt and am ready to put everything back together.

[MBF]

You can press the broken studs out with a press, or you can beat them out with a hammer and punch as a last resort.   Finding new studs was a challenge for me.  On these vehicles the driver's side is left hand threaded, and the passenger side are right handed.  In any event-make sure that you support the inside of the drum around the stud with a pipe or other blocking that will allow the stud to be forced out of the hub.  Failure to do that may result in a damaged or collapsed drum.

[1952gary]

Been awhile since I have visited the website.  I have a similar situation working on my currant project a 1941 Firetruck.  Front brakes are done and I just removed the rear wheels.  Seeing the post from Zen Master explains what I need to look for in removing the drum.  The front drums just need sandblasted and inspected.  I installed new wheel cylinders and brake lines.  I assume the rear will require the same.   

[Dodgeb4ya]

I drove your fire truck years ago.

You must have bought it from the Mopar Morgue...

Rodney Fowler?