John Mulders Posted March 23, 2008 Report Posted March 23, 2008 Well, got the shocks off but then noticed a wet spot on the left rear brake plate and the tire underneath. Already thought that the brake pedal was loosing heigth at first touch and then was normally high again last time I drove... Did the brakes two and a half year ago. Not too happy about this. Will need to order a kit (the cylinders were new then) and then see if that will fix it. Not too happy about this. John Quote
Niel Hoback Posted March 23, 2008 Report Posted March 23, 2008 John, if that's your biggest problem, you've got it made. Enjoy the time spent playing. You could be at work, you know. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted March 23, 2008 Report Posted March 23, 2008 John, If the wheel cylinders were new, maybe it isn't bad. Before buying a rebuild kit check you connection for the brake line to the cylinder, and also make sure the bleeder screw is not loose. Could be you just need to tighten things up a little. Quote
55 Fargo Posted March 23, 2008 Report Posted March 23, 2008 John did you pull the drum yet, as Norm and Neil have said, maybe there is something loose. What brake fluid are you using DOT 3 or 5. Maybe it was from lack of use, a little shot of brake fluid getting past the boot,a little piece of crud inside, what is the level in the MC is it down much. It doesn't take long for brake fluid to leak out a bad wheel cyl, that is for sure, open her up and investigate..........Fred Quote
John Mulders Posted March 23, 2008 Author Report Posted March 23, 2008 I know, maybe pull the wheel tomorrow. Used dot 3 if I recall correctly. Been spending Easter weekend on the car a lot (finally !). Got things done and had a drawback with the window channel and now this. Part of the game , if everything is fixed I cant do anything! This afternoon a bit of boating, sun , water wind and a cold brewski A man got to do what a man got to do right? John Quote
John Mulders Posted March 23, 2008 Author Report Posted March 23, 2008 you mean Fahrenheit ??? 21 is nice in Celcius Actually the winter here takes too long to end. Watertemperature : 77 Fahrenheit Outside probably 84 normally 89. Windchill factor not calculated in. Sorry guys, you have all the Pep boys, Napa's , Sears and other hardware shops. I only have the weather.... But then again, just drop by and you get a cold beer. John Quote
John Mulders Posted March 24, 2008 Author Report Posted March 24, 2008 Took the drum off, left side shows oily and crud in the dustcap. The rear side of the cylinder was clean but when I lifted the dustcap a watery fluid leaked out (the pic that is not sharp). So I guess I need to remove the cylinder to access the damage. I actually have used dot 4 and basically renewed the brake fluid. Maybe need to do this again (and cleanout with air?)? Seems I will not be driving for a while Unless I can get the cylinder kits with Napa (anyone knows the partno?)? John Quote
John Mulders Posted March 24, 2008 Author Report Posted March 24, 2008 hmm, not so good I think. There was a lot of crud under the dustcap. No idea what causes that, water seems not really an option. Rubber cap seems fine. The inner side of the piston seems fine so I think it is an exterior problem. But the cylinder seems not good, not sure how deep the pitting is. Also not sure whether this can be fixed. 36 $ each a mere two years ago seems not money spent well. Anyone an idea how this happens and how I can avoid it? Thanks John Quote
John Mulders Posted March 24, 2008 Author Report Posted March 24, 2008 right rear some s&^$ I sanded the cylinder with 600 grid, cleaned up but some pitting still remains. Arrghhh John Quote
John Mulders Posted March 25, 2008 Author Report Posted March 25, 2008 did not replace all lines but cleaned it out. as said, the inside of the cylinder doesn't have any crud. Seems like moisture that built up under the dustcaps. I sanded the pitted part with 600 grid, doesn't go away so I guess new cylinders. But how can I avoid the same to happen again? John Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted March 25, 2008 Report Posted March 25, 2008 You should use a honer to clean out and refinish the insides of the cylinders. If you can't get all the dark spots out, then you need new cylinders. You shouldn't have any problems with new cylinders for many years. I've had new cylinders on the rear for several years. Got them from Kanter and no problems with them. When you bought new cylinders before, were they new or new rebuilt. If they were new rebuilt, that could be why you're having a problem now. Quote
John Mulders Posted March 25, 2008 Author Report Posted March 25, 2008 Norm, they were new. Explanation I have is that the car is not driven that much, combined with salt air and moisture could have caused this. Just wonder how I can avoid this. Even when you drive more I think the moisture would buildup anyway. Maybe clean every 6 months or so? John Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted March 25, 2008 Report Posted March 25, 2008 One way to avoid future pitting is to have your old cylinders relined with either brass or stainless and put in a kit . This method would probably be a little more expensive than new wheel cylinders . Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted March 26, 2008 Report Posted March 26, 2008 John, Your theory sounds good about the car not being driven much and the salt air is getting in there. However, I don't think the salt air has anything to do with it. The system is sealed so no salt air or outside moisture should be getting in. If it was the cylinders and calipers on your modern cars would also have a short life span. I think you probably just got a reject in that one cylinder. If thats the case you should be able to just change the one cylinder and be on your way again. Quote
John Mulders Posted March 27, 2008 Author Report Posted March 27, 2008 Norm, I agree (the dustcaps should seal a bit) but have not a real good explanation. Both cylinders are gone bad. I spoke to the guys who maintains my other cars and he said that brake oil will attract water/moisture real bad. Ordered two new cylinders and I probably will just have to decide to keep a better look and clean them more often or just have them go bad and replace them again. John Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 27, 2008 Report Posted March 27, 2008 John, I don't know whether you mentioned where you got your wheel cylinders. I will be buying a set soon and from what I'm hearing, Kanter is dependable. Quote
John Mulders Posted March 27, 2008 Author Report Posted March 27, 2008 I will get them (again) from AB. Got some other items from them and that would be the easiest way. Don't think the quality of the metal of the cylinders are an issue. Any metal will rust/pit when the crud starts building up. John Quote
Young Ed Posted March 27, 2008 Report Posted March 27, 2008 John maybe you should add a little brake bleeding to your maintenence schedule. I would think bleeding about a wheel cylinder full out of each one would keep the system in good order. Quote
55 Fargo Posted March 27, 2008 Report Posted March 27, 2008 I will get them (again) from AB.Got some other items from them and that would be the easiest way. Don't think the quality of the metal of the cylinders are an issue. Any metal will rust/pit when the crud starts building up. John John, where is the crud coming from, what I did was replace all lines and hoses, not a real big deal, with freshly rebuilt MC and wheels cyls, or if you go new cyls, why not use Dot 5 silicone brake fluid, it seems to keep moisture at bay, especially for vehicles with limited use, long storage and high moisture environments. My brakes were redone 3 years ago, no a bit of evidence of moisture or crud, when, the dust caps are pulled back. Yes id have one leaking slightly, but it was rebuilt cyl, so I cheaped out and paid for it..............Fred Quote
John Mulders Posted March 28, 2008 Author Report Posted March 28, 2008 Fred, I am clueless on where the crud is coming from. Dot5 means I will need to flush the lines etc to remove the old oil. John Quote
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