51 Fargo Posted February 26, 2008 Report Share Posted February 26, 2008 well I been working away on the old girl and here is what I got done . I am making a mild street rod out of the truck mainly keeping the body all stock but running up dated engine and suspention . I changed the rear end to a 70s B body 8 3/4 and mounted the rear end on top of the springs , C notched the rear frame and it had a volare clip in it . The chassic has dropped 6 1/2 inches from stock hight. I hope that when I get it all together I don,t end up to low or I may have to put a blade on the front and go out and cut grass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatS.... Posted February 26, 2008 Report Share Posted February 26, 2008 Looks really good to me. Keep us posted on your progress!! Looks like a very nice big well-lit shop, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 You know the guy is committed when he has a bed in the garage!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 I dig that orange and black combo ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 I'd like to see more photos also. Particularly how you measured and cut the frame. What pedal assembly are you using? What motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Fargo Posted March 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 Here is a pic of the frame now that I boxed the front in Now the brake set up is from KMS tools Uni Mount set up and uses a Corvette booster and mastercylinder. I bought the chassic with the clip in it But changed out and modified the rear end. I also had to make a trany mount from 3 inch channel and had to put a larger arch in the center cross member for the tail shaft of the transmission but still looks stock . I also C notched the rear and then boxed it in as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Fargo Posted March 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 Oh I forgot the motor that will be going in is a 360 interceptor with 727 trans the rear end is 8 3/4 with 355 posi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Fargo Posted March 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Some more up dates Motor trany in Idea as to how low it will sit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatS.... Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Looks like some good progress. I hope you don't mind, I brightened up the shots to see them better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck U&R Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 I'm not try to be an a@@ but is that rear suspension gonna work ? Doesn't look like much room to travel and the shock is laid way over ??? Bad camera angle ? Not setup completely yet ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Fargo Posted March 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 I'm not try to be an a@@ but is that rear suspension gonna work ?Doesn't look like much room to travel and the shock is laid way over ??? Bad camera angle ? Not setup completely yet ? BAD camera angle for sure there is over 4 inches of travel from the rear diff to the C notch and the angle of the shocks has only changed by one inch I can jump on the frame at the back and the shock move freely... It,s all do to bad camera angle;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony WestOZ Posted March 12, 2008 Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 Gee you guys are lucky over there. If you cut the chassis like that here you would never pass inspection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck U&R Posted March 13, 2008 Report Share Posted March 13, 2008 I really like the way your chassis is coming along ! Good on ya for using a Chrysler drive train ! Was the 'C' notch something you bought or could you use a section of steel or steel pipe ? Looks like a good alternative to 'Z-ing' when you don't need a lot of travel room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Fargo Posted March 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2008 I really like the way your chassis is coming along !Good on ya for using a Chrysler drive train ! Was the 'C' notch something you bought or could you use a section of steel or steel pipe ? Looks like a good alternative to 'Z-ing' when you don't need a lot of travel room. I used a 5 inch pipe and cut a section out of it for the C notch and welded it to the frame then cut out the section of the C then boxed in the back side of the frame this is the best way to do the C notch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted March 15, 2008 Report Share Posted March 15, 2008 I used a 5 inch pipe and cut a section out of it for the C notch and welded it to the frame then cut out the section of the C then boxed in the back side of the frame this is the best way to do the C notch I used the pipe trick when I modified my front cross member to accept the longer Desoto engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Fargo Posted March 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2008 yup just shows ya that pipe is used for lots of things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Fargo Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 ok I have the brakes all done and now you can see how this power brake set up will work .... here is a pic of the mastercylinder....... Here is the proportining valve I used from a 89 chevy van And here are the new rotors and calipers also I also used DOT 5 fluid because it never vaporates or allows condensation to happen in your brake parts , do to it being silicone formula... Cost a bit more but will last longer than DOT 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dave Claussen Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 51Fargo- Just curious, but where did you get that manifold that your lines from the booster run to? And while we're on the subject, and forgive me if this sounds like a stupid question, are the two lines coming from the booster an "out" line and an "return" line for the brake fluid? I have a place for two lines on my booster and I thought one was for the front and was for the back. Maybe I'm on the wrong track here and now's a good time to learn how this thing really works. It didn't come with any instructions so I'm pretty much on my own here. I got a booster that looks almost exactly like yours but with a different bracket from Fatman's when I bought my front end kit. That bracket isn't going to work because the mounting flange is at a goofy angle and I need a 90 degree bend like you have. I'll either have to find or fabricate one to make that setup work. Buying one would be easier. I'm going to contact the manufacturer and see if they have something available. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Fargo Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 51Fargo- Just curious, but where did you get that manifold that your lines from the booster run to? And while we're on the subject, and forgive me if this sounds like a stupid question, are the two lines coming from the booster an "out" line and an "return" line for the brake fluid? I have a place for two lines on my booster and I thought one was for the front and was for the back. Maybe I'm on the wrong track here and now's a good time to learn how this thing really works. It didn't come with any instructions so I'm pretty much on my own here. I got a booster that looks almost exactly like yours but with a different bracket from Fatman's when I bought my front end kit. That bracket isn't going to work because the mounting flange is at a goofy angle and I need a 90 degree bend like you have. I'll either have to find or fabricate one to make that setup work. Buying one would be easier. I'm going to contact the manufacturer and see if they have something available. Dave Hi Dave ok to answer your questions the manifold that the lines are going into is a proportioning valve and I got it from a 89 chevy van, because the master cylinder is a GM product I went with GM valve , Just easier to plumb the lines to . Now on the master cylinder the lines coming out are for "front" and "back" brakes. which go to the proportioning Valve , as you see in my pics. The Valve has 2 lines coming out for the front brakes and only 1 for the back which goes to the "T" on the rear end . The rule of thumb on master cylinders is the larger one of the 2 bowls is for the front brakes and the smaller one is for the rears. hope this was a help to you Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dave Claussen Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Yes, it does answer my question. Thanks for clearing that up me. I think I should be on the right track now. I'm going with a disc/front and drum/rear setup so I'll need to plumb in the proportioning valves too. Progess is slow right now but I am moving forward. Thanks again. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Fargo Posted April 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2008 OK THE CAB IS BACK ON ..... My Buddy Paul over to give a helping hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrag777 Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 hey there, fellow canadian here but i'm from the other side. nova scotia. seen your truck on the net and have many pictures saved on my computer. I just ove it..esp the burnout vid on youtube. haha. 'm building my own 51 Fargo. only i starting mounting the body on a 93 dodge dakota chassis with a 5.2 magnum and keeping the efi. i was wondering if you could do me a favor. I have the mount holes on the cab squared up and even measurements away from the frame rails ,heels very close to center on the fenders but the rear of the cab is throwing me off. where the cab sits over the frame the cab corner bottom is a half an inch difference between each side from the frame rail. can you measure yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Very cool truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 25, 2012 Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 hey there, fellow canadian here but i'm from the other side. nova scotia. seen your truck on the net and have many pictures saved on my computer. I just ove it..esp the burnout vid on youtube. haha. 'm building my own 51 Fargo. only i starting mounting the body on a 93 dodge dakota chassis with a 5.2 magnum and keeping the efi. i was wondering if you could do me a favor. I have the mount holes on the cab squared up and even measurements away from the frame rails ,heels very close to center on the fenders but the rear of the cab is throwing me off. where the cab sits over the frame the cab corner bottom is a half an inch difference between each side from the frame rail. can you measure yours? Have you done the diagonal measurments on the frame to be sure it's square and the diagonals on the mount pads? How do your measurements work out when based off a centerline? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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