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Posted

well I been working away on the old girl and here is what I got done . I am making a mild street rod out of the truck mainly keeping the body all stock but running up dated engine and suspention . I changed the rear end to a 70s B body 8 3/4 and mounted the rear end on top of the springs , C notched the rear frame and it had a volare clip in it . The chassic has dropped 6 1/2 inches from stock hight. I hope that when I get it all together I don,t end up to low or I may have to put a blade on the front and go out and cut grass

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Posted

Here is a pic of the frame now that I boxed the front in

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Now the brake set up is from KMS tools Uni Mount set up and uses a Corvette booster and mastercylinder. I bought the chassic with the clip in it But changed out and modified the rear end. I also had to make a trany mount from 3 inch channel and had to put a larger arch in the center cross member for the tail shaft of the transmission but still looks stock . I also C notched the rear and then boxed it in as well

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm not try to be an a@@ but is that rear suspension gonna work ?

Doesn't look like much room to travel and the shock is laid way over ???

Bad camera angle ? Not setup completely yet ?

Posted
I'm not try to be an a@@ but is that rear suspension gonna work ?

Doesn't look like much room to travel and the shock is laid way over ???

Bad camera angle ? Not setup completely yet ?

BAD camera angle for sure there is over 4 inches of travel from the rear diff to the C notch and the angle of the shocks has only changed by one inch I can jump on the frame at the back and the shock move freely... It,s all do to bad camera angle;)

Posted

I really like the way your chassis is coming along !

Good on ya for using a Chrysler drive train !

Was the 'C' notch something you bought or could you use a section of steel or steel pipe ?

Looks like a good alternative to 'Z-ing' when you don't need a lot of travel room.

Posted
I really like the way your chassis is coming along !

Good on ya for using a Chrysler drive train !

Was the 'C' notch something you bought or could you use a section of steel or steel pipe ?

Looks like a good alternative to 'Z-ing' when you don't need a lot of travel room.

I used a 5 inch pipe and cut a section out of it for the C notch and welded it to the frame then cut out the section of the C then boxed in the back side of the frame this is the best way to do the C notch

Posted
I used a 5 inch pipe and cut a section out of it for the C notch and welded it to the frame then cut out the section of the C then boxed in the back side of the frame this is the best way to do the C notch

I used the pipe trick when I modified my front cross member to accept the longer Desoto engine.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

ok I have the brakes all done and now you can see how this power brake set up will work .... here is a pic of the mastercylinder.......

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Here is the proportining valve I used from a 89 chevy van

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And here are the new rotors and calipers also

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I also used DOT 5 fluid because it never vaporates or allows condensation to happen in your brake parts , do to it being silicone formula... Cost a bit more but will last longer than DOT 3

Guest Dave Claussen
Posted

51Fargo- Just curious, but where did you get that manifold that your lines from the booster run to? And while we're on the subject, and forgive me if this sounds like a stupid question, are the two lines coming from the booster an "out" line and an "return" line for the brake fluid? I have a place for two lines on my booster and I thought one was for the front and was for the back. Maybe I'm on the wrong track here and now's a good time to learn how this thing really works. It didn't come with any instructions so I'm pretty much on my own here.

I got a booster that looks almost exactly like yours but with a different bracket from Fatman's when I bought my front end kit. That bracket isn't going to work because the mounting flange is at a goofy angle and I need a 90 degree bend like you have. I'll either have to find or fabricate one to make that setup work. Buying one would be easier. I'm going to contact the manufacturer and see if they have something available. Dave

Posted
51Fargo- Just curious, but where did you get that manifold that your lines from the booster run to? And while we're on the subject, and forgive me if this sounds like a stupid question, are the two lines coming from the booster an "out" line and an "return" line for the brake fluid? I have a place for two lines on my booster and I thought one was for the front and was for the back. Maybe I'm on the wrong track here and now's a good time to learn how this thing really works. It didn't come with any instructions so I'm pretty much on my own here.

I got a booster that looks almost exactly like yours but with a different bracket from Fatman's when I bought my front end kit. That bracket isn't going to work because the mounting flange is at a goofy angle and I need a 90 degree bend like you have. I'll either have to find or fabricate one to make that setup work. Buying one would be easier. I'm going to contact the manufacturer and see if they have something available. Dave

Hi Dave

ok to answer your questions the manifold that the lines are going into is a proportioning valve and I got it from a 89 chevy van, because the master cylinder is a GM product I went with GM valve , Just easier to plumb the lines to . Now on the master cylinder the lines coming out are for "front" and "back" brakes. which go to the proportioning Valve , as you see in my pics. The Valve has 2 lines coming out for the front brakes and only 1 for the back which goes to the "T" on the rear end . The rule of thumb on master cylinders is the larger one of the 2 bowls is for the front brakes and the smaller one is for the rears. hope this was a help to you Dave

Guest Dave Claussen
Posted

Yes, it does answer my question. Thanks for clearing that up me. I think I should be on the right track now. I'm going with a disc/front and drum/rear setup so I'll need to plumb in the proportioning valves too. Progess is slow right now but I am moving forward. Thanks again. Dave

  • 4 years later...
Posted

hey there, fellow canadian here but i'm from the other side. nova scotia. seen your truck on the net and have many pictures saved on my computer. I just ove it..esp the burnout vid on youtube. haha. 'm building my own 51 Fargo. only i starting mounting the body on a 93 dodge dakota chassis with a 5.2 magnum and keeping the efi. i was wondering if you could do me a favor. I have the mount holes on the cab squared up and even measurements away from the frame rails ,heels very close to center on the fenders but the rear of the cab is throwing me off. where the cab sits over the frame the cab corner bottom is a half an inch difference between each side from the frame rail. can you measure yours?

Posted
hey there, fellow canadian here but i'm from the other side. nova scotia. seen your truck on the net and have many pictures saved on my computer. I just ove it..esp the burnout vid on youtube. haha. 'm building my own 51 Fargo. only i starting mounting the body on a 93 dodge dakota chassis with a 5.2 magnum and keeping the efi. i was wondering if you could do me a favor. I have the mount holes on the cab squared up and even measurements away from the frame rails ,heels very close to center on the fenders but the rear of the cab is throwing me off. where the cab sits over the frame the cab corner bottom is a half an inch difference between each side from the frame rail. can you measure yours?

Have you done the diagonal measurments on the frame to be sure it's square and the diagonals on the mount pads? How do your measurements work out when based off a centerline?

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