What's easiest way to run turn signal wires back to the rear?

[oldmopar]

I do not think there is that much difference in the size of the bulb for the single or dual filament but what I know is based on p15's and newer so can not say for your car. adding lights would work but that depends on how original your car is or you want it to be. I have a P15 project car actually had it for a while it seems to keep getting pushed back but thats another story.

The po added lights for directionals to it but as you can see in the photo it was not done well.

[Normspeed]

..., my friend decided to make future changes a little easier on his. He installed conduit in the roof so that fishing new wire in the future will be a snap.

David, was it a pvc conduit or metal? And did he do anything special to limit rattles? I'm interested because I'm currently running no headliner, car is due for new body wiring, and I do have a NIB headliner for future use...

[central52]

I noticed that OldMopar's diagram shows wires leading from the flasher to other places. (L and the P),but mine go back into the signal unit itself. What do these do?

So, how can I determine if power is getting to the signal unit on the steering column. I know it's getting power to the flasher. I checked with a probe lite. Ed P.

[oldmopar]

You should use the instructions that came with your unit. The diagram I posted is out of the Plymouth manual. In the one I posted L is connected to the horn relay which is connected to the key switch so the signals only worked when the key is on. P is to a light a bulb on the dash to show the directional is in use. The wire that is connected to the flasher from the brake light switch should also be bringing power to the directional unit.

For what is worth what I did once everything was wired was just put the bulbs in to see what did and did not work.

Ed

[central52]

Thanks, OldMopar. Should I connect that seventh wire to the hot brake switch wire, or the other one that works only when the brakes are applied? Another forum member said to connect it to the one that only works when brakes are applied. Ed P.

[Don Coatney]

Once again here is a 7 wire schematic.

[oldmopar]

Thanks, OldMopar. Should I connect that seventh wire to the hot brake switch wire, or the other one that works only when the brakes are applied? Another forum member said to connect it to the one that only works when brakes are applied. Ed P.

I would hook it up as shown in the 7 wire diagram posted and put the bulbs and and see what works and does not and then trouble shoot the problem area

[central52]

Thanks Don. It shows that the seventh wire goes to the brake switch wire that is not hot.

Well, I've made progress. The front signals work. However, I just hooked them up with the same bulb for the parking lite. Single filament bulb with the single filament original socket.

The rear still does not go on. Now, these I put in the double filament socket and bulb.

Also, when I clicked on the emergency flasher, the front ones were blinking, and the center trunk brake lite was blinking. But not the tail lites.

So, I'm sort of half way there. What next to resolve this? Ed P.

[james curl]

When everything is hooked up properly the center tail light will not flash, it should go directly from the brake light switch to the center tail light, not through the turn signals.

[Don Coatney]

What did I think I was going to do with a 2 filament bulb in the front:confused: :confused:

Shel;

When I do my turn signals I will convert the parking lights to a two filiment bulb. I will use the bright side for turn siganls and the dim side for parking lights and I will wire it so the dim parking lights are lit when the headlights are lit both bright and dim.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Don now has the best turn signals out there..sticks his hand out and signals two ways..first his intentions to turn and the next. look at the size of this hand..want a piece of me?

[Don Coatney]

Don now has the best turn signals out there..sticks his hand out and signals two ways..first his intentions to turn and the next. look at the size of this hand..want a piece of me?

Tim;

I also use hand signals and point in the direction I want my tailgaiters to go and I use (naturally) my longest finger:D

[james curl]

I replaced the entire socket in my front parking lights with some sockets from the help section at the auto parts store. Had to modify the buckets to accept the new sockets but was not much work after removing them from the car. I have had 7-wire turn signal in my car for over ten years with no problems. Have dual filament bulbs in both parking and taillights.

[David Maxwell]

...and haven't seen it first hand. I'll have to ask him more details although I believe he said that he used pvc conduit and put insulation material around the conduit. Couldn't be too thick though, because there's not much room where the original wires ran through the clips. I suppose he could have moved it futher up where there is more room between the headliner and the roof. I'll just have to talk with him when he returns from his road trip (trucker).

David, was it a pvc conduit or metal? And did he do anything special to limit rattles? I'm interested because I'm currently running no headliner, car is due for new body wiring, and I do have a NIB headliner for future use...

[central52]

I think the dual filament bulb and socket are not working right for me. I couldn't get the signal lite flashing in the rear, fronts were working fine. For fun, I disconnected the tail lite wire with just the turn signal wire hooked up and put the old single filament bulb back in ( with the dual filament socket still in), and I got both sides flashing properly.

I bought the sockets and bulbs from PepBoys. The only 6 volt bulb they had was a 6.4 volt bulb. Would that cause my signals to not flash?

Well, back to my original problem. With the dual socket and dual filament bulb, the tail lites did work. The signals did not. How can I be sure those two little nibs on each are properly lined up with each other?

I plan to drive car only during the day, so I don't need tail lites. With the signals working without them, maybe I'll just do it that way. But, I realize that's not the right way to do things. Ed P.

[Plymouthy Adams]

are the sockets dual indexed..? (4 holes) all the one I have bought for upgrade I have had to re-index the wires to the opposite holes...

[james curl]

Take the light bulb out, now look where the upper and lower pin end up in the socket. Look at the end of the bulb as it would be in the socket. Now does it appear that both contacts on the bulb will be in contract with the contacts on the indexed socket plate? If not, that is your problem. Now you need to move the contacts in the socket. If the index plate does not have four holes in it then you will need to drill new holes for the contacts so that when the bulb is installed all of the contacts line up.

[Normspeed]

James, we recently went through that with 47Heaven's coupe. Darin's old fiber inserts were not "pegged" in place, no protrusion, so they would turn when you put a bulb in. First we picked up some auto store sockets with the 2 button fiber insert and with a protrusion on one spot that rides in a groove in the bulb socket.

When we tried the new fiber inserts, they worked and were solidly pegged, but the two buttons were 90 degrees off. Instead of just drilling two new holes in the fiber insert which was thin, read Taiwan, we carefully cleaned and glued the original fiber part to the new one with the protrusion, at 90 degrees offset. Then used the holes in the original as markers and drilled through the new one too. Easier to do than describe, and I remember at the time thinking I should have been taking a few photos. It came out great, fiber piece is double thick.

[james curl]

I ran into this problem about ten years ago on my P-15 when I first installed tail lights and on my 55 Cheverlot pick up even before that. At one time on my pick up I even rivited another light socket to the side of the tail light housing for brake lights. The pick up uses the round bucket type of tail lights and therefore there was enough room to add another socket inside of the bucket. On my P-15 I modified my existing lights to adapt dual filiment sockets from the Help Section at the auto parts store.

[central52]

Success. I finally got the directional signals to work. The key point were the dual contact sockets. Instead of drilling two extra holes in the sockets I have, I thought I'd try my local CarQuest auto parts store to see if they sell the indexed four hole ones. Yep, they have them, and I put them in and moved the wires around to the proper holes and voila, it worked. The CarQuest part no. is S24, a little pricey at $3.70. Hmmm. maybe I should have drilled those two holes in the other ones.

However, I noticed that when the signals were flashing, the license plate light was also flashing. I can live with that, but is this normal? Ed P.

[james curl]

NO, all of your lights should work just like a new car. The third brake light, AKA the original brake light and the license plate light both should work like they do on a modern car.

[Don St Peter]

After the 50+ posts on this subject, here's a problem no one else has reportedly encountered. This is what I am experiencing in my ongoing installation attempt and can't for the life of me figure out!

I installed a standard 7 wire turn signal switch ( everlasting Model HL-101 ) on my 6V original 40 Ply P-9. I used a new 6 Volt flasher ( Model 535 from NAPA ) and wired per the signal switch instructions; which, by the way matches schematics previously posted on the fourm.

I ran 2 new and seperate wires from the turn signal switch to the back and spliced into the existing L & R stop light wires just before the existing dual filiment tail/brake light bulbs. I spliced into each of my existing single filiment front park light wires with two new and seperate wires, since I've chosen to use the park lights as my front turn signals. I spliced into the stop light switch ( non hot wire ) and ran to the turn signal switch. I wired the flasher in per the schematic using L, P terminals to turn signal switch and taking the X to the hot horn relay terminal. Have Good grounds and results are.

1. When I turn on left turn signal, BOTH rear stop lights flash. The front left turn signal flashes correctly and the Left turn signal indicator light in the turn signal switch flashes correctly.

2. When I turn on right turn signal, again BOTH stop lights flash. The front right turn signal light flashes correctly and the right turn signal indicator light in the turn signal switch flashes correctly.

When I turn on the emergency flasher feature both stop lights and front lights flash. All turn signal indicator lights OK.(as advertized).

When I switch the L and P wires around on the flasher nothing works, but the turn signal indicator lights burn steady. (understandable ).

When I disconnect the Rt. rear stop light wire going into turn signal switch ( brown in my case ) both stop lights still flash regardless of whether I select right or left turn. Front signals work OK. Turn signal Indicator lights work OK.

When I reconnect the Rt rear stop light wire and DISCONNECT the left rear wire ( orange in my case ) at the turn signal, BOTH L & R stop lights still flash when I select right turn. Right front turn lights flash correctly and turn signal indicator lights flash correctly.

When I select left turn signal, however, I get no stop light(s) at all and the left front turn signal light glows steady dim. I also note that if I select the flasher position in this configuration, it immediately deselects itself.

A lot of words here, but does anyone in the world know what is happening and what I might do , or try, to get there?

Intent viewer and sometimes contributor.

Don

[40deluxe]

I ran 2 new and seperate wires from the turn signal switch to the back and spliced into the existing L & R stop light wires just before the existing dual filiment tail/brake light bulbs.

Did you cut the existing wires or just splice into them ?

The original wires from the stop light switch must be cut off or they would cause both rear lights to light together.

[cwcars88]

One thing I didn't see posted, if you have your signals wired to a ignition switch so they will turn off with the key if you forget to turn them off. If you want to have your 4-way flasher on you also have to leave your key on, which would be ok if you also want to leave your motor runnig. Not good if you have a break down or have to leave your car.