Tires and rims for 1949 b-series

[bob1949b]

Hi all. I am new to this forum and I am sure this question has been asked about a bazillion times , but here it is.. I have got a 1949 b-series 1-ton

and would like to know what size tires would fit the rims other than the

7.50 x 16 that are on there now. Also what other rim would fit this bolt pattern. Thanks:D

[grey beard]

Hi Bob,

Depends what you are hoping to accomplish. If you just wanr new rubber, several sources still remain for your original bias ply size tires - Sears, Tractor Supply, Coker, etc. If you want to improve the ride, handling and economy of your truck, you may wish to switfh to radials. Many of us on this forum have done this and are pleased with the results.

My own truck is a B1B half ton. I wanted to lower the final gearing of the truck so it could have a higher top speed on the highway, so I searched for tall radials. What I finally selected were Dunlop 215 x 85.16. These tires are more than 31 inches tall, and improve the top speed almost 20 per cent, IMHO. There was a lot of discussion at the tire shop before they were willing to mount one of their tires on my skinny 4 1/2-inch rims, but once they tried one, every body agreed they would work just fine. I'm pleased with them, and they helped me accomplish my top speed goal without a gear swap in the differential.

The tire size I used is quite common and easy to find at most tire shops. Many of the options they will offer to you have Korean names, and I personally like US names on old iron - just my own hang-up here. The tire is used on most GM dually pickups for many years - it's tall and skinny in profile, sorra' like your original 750x16, and looks nearly sock, only a little taller in diameter.

Let us know what you decide.

[4852dodge]

Ford and International have rims of the same bolt pattern that will fit your truck. My B-1-D has ford rims on the rear at this time. The truck was equipted with 6.00-16 fronts and 6.00 or 6.50- 16 on the rear(duals) according to the gvw ordered.

[bob1949b]

Thanks. What I was trying to accomplish was to improve the ride and handling

and switch to radials. I will look for the size you suggested and let you know how it works out

[greg g]

Check out the post on the car board from Reg Evans. He is looking to sell a pair of 31 inch tall radials.

[Reg Evans]

Thanks for the plug Greg!

They are wide whitewalls....750x16 radials from Diamondback....only a couple hundred miles on them. They still have some of the rubber mold strings on the outside. They are over 31.5 " tall for low rpm's

[MBF]

If you've got the Budd locking ring rims radials won't work (according to my local tire dealer). I'm running bias ply on the steers and drive dual. If you want to go to radials I think you're going to have to find a set of drop center rims that have the 6 hole bolt pattern-like hen's teeth. I know where there is a set, but the owner won't commit to sell them as of yet. If you do find something, make sure that the offset is deep enough to use the rims in a dual configuration. PM me and I'll show you photos of the single and dual rims. Mike

[Guest Kuster13]

Here I was thinking that radial were no problem for my 1 ton. Why is it that radials are a no no with the budd rims?

Tom

[MBF]

Two dealers told me that radials on the 16" Budd rims with the lock rings would walk off the rim as they were never designed for a tubeless tire (I thought a radial tube would fix that), or flexing sidewalls. Both also told me if I could find a similar style drop center rim that they could keep me in 16" radial takeoffs for very little money. I have a line on a set of those, but nothing definite. Ford, IH used these same bolt pattern Budds during the 50's and early 60's on some of their 1 tons. I have new biased plies on the front. Mike

[grey beard]

Mike,

This thread started about a B1B truck, but I've seen many old trucks at the Macungie PA truck show that sported new radials on old bud lock rims - not those old two-ring suicide rims that nobody should ever use, but normal Bud lock ring truck rims. You are right that they need a flap and a tube, but then you can just about forget about them, they're so trouble free.

It took me nearly an hour to convince my tire man to even try installing a new 215 x 85.16 on my 4 1/2 inch rims, but everybody felt better when they saw how they looked mounted. New radials really work very well on old Budds - look nice, give better economy and ride amazingly better.

In another life I drove school bus in Appalachian Ohio for eleven years. The bus garage mechanic kept a list of each bus on the isnide of the main garage door in tire crayon - showed how many flats each unit had running on dirt roads around the county. When the whole fleet switched to radials, he repainted the inside of the door. Almost NO flats anymore. Wow!

[MBF]

Agreed. I used to drive a road tractor that had radials on Dayton rims with a similar lock ring setup. We ran radials on the steer axle, and bias ply luggers on the drives in the winter. I know for a fact that the luggers had far better traction in heavy snow than the new Michelins another owner operator had on his KW. We were heading up a long bypass near Binghamton each w 55K of bagged flower on. I didn't know that the only thing that worked on my power divider that worked was the indicator light! I walked up around and past him driving just on the rear drive, and saw both of his axles spinning when I passed him on the hill. Anyway, yes, the tractor drove and rode a lot nicer w the radials. Since I breakdown and mount my own tires, I figured these dealers knew what they were talking about-wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong! I'm going to make a concerted effort tomorrow to see if I can get those drop center 16" Budds so that I can run tubeless radials on the back of my rack body. Gonna miss them old bias ply snowtires whining though! Mike

[Guest Kuster13]

but what's the verdict? My plan was to purchase 215 85R16's and mount them with radial tudes and flaps on the rims that came with my truck. Do I have to find different rims?

I just want to confirm this. Thank you for any info you can offer.

Tom

[MBF]

Tom: If I were you I'd find a tire guy that has been in the business for a long time and see what he says, or hopefully someone on another forum can talk about his experiences on a 16" Budd w radials.

A couple of other things to consider.

1) There were discussions on the ATHS website about using radials on antique trucks that sit alot. The theory is that on vehicles that sit-the sidewalls start checking long before the tire wears out. Sidewall checking in a bias ply tire isn't as much as a problem as it would be with radials. Make sure that the rims you want to use are in good shape-lock ring groove, lock ring, where center of rim rivets to the rim itself, and runout. If the lock rings are bent or fit on the rim loosely the tire co probably won't mount them for you. I took my fronts apart and cleaned and painted them inside and out, and cleaned up the lock rings and groove really well before I bought my tires. Now that I've cleared that up the choices should be obvious as mud! Mike

[Tom Skinner]

I have a 1948 Chrysler, that the previous owner put L78-15 Coker Wide White Tubeless Tires on.

They rub on the inner rear fenders on sharp curves.

The old size in my manual call for 700 x 15 it seems my tires are too wide.

I hate to have to buy new when thes are new, but I cannot abide with the wrong size on there.

My question is can "New Radials" satisfy the old size I need or will they be to wide like my problem now and not narrower as was proper (not rubbing the rear inner fenders on sharp curve) while still being Wide White Walls.

Tom

[grey beard]

Today the entire semi truck transportation industry runs on radial tires - a few older rigs still have Dayton demountable rims on cast spokes but the vasrt majority of stuff you pass on the highway today is radial rubber mounted onto split rim Bud wheels. The newer alloy rims often are drop center one piece stuff, and some of the steel Buds are similar in construction, but the vast majority still run on Bud rims with a lock ring. The lock is hidden on rear dual wheels on the inside, but completely visible on steering rims.

It goes without saying that these radial applications nearly all run a liner against the rim - or a flap - and always require radial tubes. I spent many years in this industry. Wish I had all the money I spent on tires and caps in my life. JMHO

[Tom_Redgate]

I have a 1949 Dodge B1 Pickup.  It is stock.  I am on the fence of ordering custom aluminum rims or stock rims and caps.  Does anyone know where I can get stock rims for my truck?

[B1B Keven]

5 hours ago, Tom_Redgate said:

I have a 1949 Dodge B1 Pickup.  It is stock.  I am on the fence of ordering custom aluminum rims or stock rims and caps.  Does anyone know where I can get stock rims for my truck?

Try posting a wanted ad in the classifieds here.