Oil Filter

[Gregammon]

I have purchased a canister type oil filter with the sock insert for My P15. The old replaceable metal filter had the inlet at the top and the outlet at the bottom. The metal case for the canister type has the top conntection marked as "outlet". Am I right to connect the "in" at the bottom and the "out" at the top connection?

Thanks, Greg

[steveplym]

Hi Greg and welcome to the forum.

I hooked mine up according to the shop manual. Inlet at the top hooked to the connection on top connection on block and on bottom connection outlet on filter hooked to connection on the bottom.

[greg g]

The drain line goes to the point closest to the dipstick the inlet comes out of the oil galley which is cast into the side of the block. Mine goes in the side at the topand out the bottom.

[billwillard]

Top to top--Bottom to bottom

[Merle Coggins]

My filter is also marked "OUT" at the upper fitting. This is the outlet of the filter. Plum the pressure line into the bottom and the return line to the upper fitting. Some filters are plumed differently, with the pressure line at the top. There's a reason that your filter is marked like it is. It is to ensure correct oil flow for proper operation.

[grey beard]

Merle is absolutely correct. Many of these filter canisters are hooked up bassackwards. The dirty, unfiltered oil should enter from the oil galley into the bottom of the filter and inside the centere of the element. From there it passes through the filter and the clean oil exits out of the canister at the top. In this fashion, when you drain the filrter canister to change your filter, the dirtiest oil will be removed from the bottom of the canister sump before he old filter is removed.

Remember too, that these filter systems are partial bypass pnly, and work only part time, as dictated by the oil pressure control valve, though which the filtered oil returns to the crankcase. It's better than nothing, but not by much. A good full-flow system would capture much more dirt from the oil becuase it would filter ALL the oil ALL the time the engine is running. JMHO

[Don Coatney]

Remember too, that these filter systems work only part time. It's better than nothing, but not by much.

Dave;

Used to be my thoughts too but I now look at it differently. In fact I have a full flow filter on my engine. But if you look at the particulate size a by-pass filter actually captures more crap than a full flow system. In a perfect world it would be best to run both along with an oil cooler.

[greg g]

Just checked mine, it goes in the top and drains out the bottom. I read some where that when ever the engine is running, the filter is recieving 30 to 35% of the oil flow. so 70 to the lubrication needs of the engine and 30 tot he filter. I have also read that the bypass system has a more effective filter regarding size of particles trapped.

Also the fail safe mode is to send all oil to the engine, bypassing the filter, hence the term. I believe the full flow has no fail safe mode in that if the filter gets plugged, the engine get only the oil that manages to pass through the filter which in the case of only a partial blockage may not be sufficient.

So choose your poison, enough oil that may be only partially filtered, or fully filtered oil that doesn't reach the engine's critical rotating parts. Remember a lot of these engines came from the factory and ran for years with no oil filter. The fix was to change the oil more frequently.

Also roads and air are cleaner, oil is better, gas is cleaner, lead is gone, so conditions for bypass filtering are more favorable today than they were when these systems were designed. The thing not in foavor is limited usage.

I believe modern full flow systems have an internal bypass, but our old ones do not unless there is a way to address a blockage problem.

[Don Coatney]

I believe the full flow has no fail safe mode in that if the filter gets plugged, the engine get only the oil that manages to pass through the filter which in the case of only a partial blockage may not be sufficient.

Not the case..

[tankwilson]

I am glad this was brough up. Here is what i am doing. It is a remote style fileter setup. Using a fram 9100 (big filter). The remote filter mount has "in" and "out" on it but what lines are "in" and "out" on the motor????

Doe is look like this should work.

Thanks

matt

[greg g]

Depends on how you plumb it and what the block set up is. It may work just like a bypass, filtering 30%. You have to modify the oil flow in the plumbing to have it be full flow.

[tankwilson]

Please explain. I am lost on full flow and by pass. Mine is a P18

[greg g]

My understanding is that the supply to the filter is cintriled by some passages in the oil gallery and passengers internal to the oil pressure relieve valve. these were different ahd routed oil uniquely depending on which filter set up was used. So if you are merely replacing the old canister style bypass filter common to dodges and plymouths with a more modern spin on style filter you are still retaining the plumbing used by the bypass system.

[billwillard]

Merle, your filter is hooked up backwards. I have the same pic in my 1956 Plymouth service man that Shel posted. Wish I knew how to post pics as there is also another digram on the same page showing better. Not too often I disagree with you Gray Beard but think about what you said. Oil should go from oil galley to bottom of filter where it will trap dirt inside filter. When you trap oil in the bottom of your filter and turn the engine off where is the dirty oil going? Back down in the oil galley and into the bearings on start up. Shels post from his service man. shows it right. TOP of engine to top of filter. TOP TO TOP- BOTTOM TO BOTTOM. I am building a 230 and have installed a full flow system that Gray Beard so kindly showed me how to do. AM sure if you ask he would send you info.

[Merle Coggins]

I must disagree with you, Bill. My filter IS connected correctly. The upper connection is clearly marked OUT. The bottom connection feeds up through the center tube and actually exits near the top of the tube. The oil then migrates through the filter and will exit at the upper port and drain back into the oil pan. Any dirty oil will be on the inside of the filter. Once you pull the filter out, you can drain the remaining oil from the canister and start fresh.

I agree that some filters are connected the other way around, as I stated in my first post in this thread. Gregammon, the originator of this thread, also stated that his filter canister is marked "outlet" at the upper connection. This tells me that his filter is similar to mine and should be plumbed accordingly.

Merle

[Gregammon]

Thanks guys for all the responses. I feel certain that Merle and Grey Beard are correct. Note in the responses that there are two types of canisters. One has a bolt on top and the other has a wing nut type twist on top. I have one like Merle.

I have also been told by the folks at "Vintage Power Wagons" who sold me the canister, that in reality it does not make any difference which way it is plumbed.

After two rebuilds by an idiot and the last one by myself and friends the engine is back together and in the car. If all goes well I will have her running this week end.

Greg

[steveplym]

Good luck with your engine Greg. I too had a genius rebuild my motor and had some problems. Finally got it rebuilt myself this winter and running last weekend.

Post some pics sometime. We all like to see in progress pictures.

[Normspeed]

I found there are also 2 types of wing nut filters, using different elements. Mine is inlet at top, outlet/return at bottom center. Every 2500 miles my oil is getting pretty dark. Check the photo of the silver Chevy engine, I like the use of rubber oil filter lines, looks kinda heavy duty.