Question for Blueskies and others

[1940Mopar]

I'm thinking of picking up a couple of HolleyWeber or Carter/Weber carbs for my dual carb setup. Are there any major issues making them work right with our motors. Keep in mind I've got the little 201, but I figure jetting/adjustment will take care of any issues. The price is right from Langdon and I really don't want to rebuild the carters, or find a rebuilt one.

Any help is appreciated. Here are some pics from the Langdon website

Carter/Weber

Holley/Weber

[blueskies]

I think you've got your pics labled backwards, I have the Holley/Webber carbs and they have the diamond shaped throat and water heated chokes.

My carbs are right out of the box, all I did was sync them with a carb sync tool. I used a cable to pull the linkage directly from the gas pedal, and got rid of all the old mechanical linkage, bell cranks, etc.

I think my carbs are running a tad rich, as I had lots of carbon build up on the head when I did some engine work after 10,000 miles.

I'm going to try and get them better dialed in this spring, but other than that, I'm very happy with the way my engine runs with these carbs.

My carbs came with the water heated chokes, but I found that with my Edmunds water heated intake, I don't need the chokes even when the temps are near zero degrees. The engine starts at the touch of the key, and by the time I have backed the car out of my garage, it is warmed and running smoothly. The only reason to in my mind to get the chokes set up would be for the fast idle, but I haven't found a need for it.

The diamond shaped throat on my carbs limited the options for air cleaners, so I used an O'Brien Truckers finned aluminum cover to go over both carbs. I used a pair of round aluminum plates with a diamond shaped hole in them from Langdon to hold the air filters on the carbs, and the finned piece sits on top.

Lots of pics and sound clips on my site if you haven't already seen them...

Pete

[teardrop puller]

I have two (2) Holly/Webers on my P18. I have not synchronized them, but they run great as is. I only have a few hundred miles on then as of yet.

The car has been in the body shop for the last 3 months. The guy is so slow, but to his side, it has been cold and damp. No work on paint then. He has the body straighter than when it left the factory, I think. The upholstery guy says a month, that is what the body guy said. Oh well, this is Mexico.

kai

[martybose]

I've got the Carter-Webers on my car, using Lagdon adapters on an Edmunds manifold, with linkage that I made myself. Like many others, I'm running them as-is, straight out of the box, and they run great

The only issue I had, which may be unique to the Edmunds manifold, was that the carb spacing was a little too close together, so the electric choke connection for the front carb hit the back carb. I rotated the carbs a little bit to clear. Others have not had this problem, as they seemed to have more distance between the carbs.

Marty

[1940Mopar]

Outside of Langdon, anyone know where I can pick up a pair. Langdon is out till the 18th of February and I'm not that patient. I could be more patient if forced but right now I just want to get all the parts I can to keep plugging away at it. Now that I've heard the car running again, I'm inspired more than ever.

[Don Coatney]

I have a pair of the Carter-Webbers ready to install.

[1940Mopar]

Don, those going on your car or are they for sale?

Don't look away, I may have to make a trip to the boro and take them off of your hands.

[1940Mopar]

Pete,

What length cable did you run for the throttle. This seems like a good clean option especially since my linkage is already problematic.

[Don Coatney]

Don, those going on your car or are they for sale?

Don't look away, I may have to make a trip to the boro and take them off of your hands.

They are going on my car.

[1940Mopar]

Did you pick them up at Langdon? Any particular reason for picking the Carter vs. the Holley?

[Don Coatney]

Did you pick them up at Langdon? Any particular reason for picking the Carter vs. the Holley?

I did a bit of horse trading with another forum member and I ended up with the carburetors. I believe the carburetors did come from Langdon originally.

[martybose]

Did you pick them up at Langdon? Any particular reason for picking the Carter vs. the Holley?

The only "issue" is that the Carter-Webers are still available new, while I believe the Holley-Webers are all rebuilds, at least from Langdon. I'm not sure if it is really an issue or not.

Marty

[1940Mopar]

Well it looks like either will be a vast improvement over my current setup, which basically dumps fuel out of the space between where the lower and upper portions of the carb bolt together. The screw/bolts are definitely not clamping down enough to prevent leaks. So new carbs it is.

You're saying that the carter/webs are new and the holley/webs are rebuilt. I'm still searching for somewhere to purchase either of these outside of Langdon. We'll see if I can find 'em.

[blueskies]

Pete,

What length cable did you run for the throttle. This seems like a good clean option especially since my linkage is already problematic.

If I remember right, I bought the 36" cable. You can buy the cable long, and cut it to fit.

Here's a coulple more pics, unless they come up as the dreaded redx...

The cable fit the '50 gas pedal arm like they were made for each other. I fabbed the little bracket to hold the cable housing to the floor.

Besure to locktite the cable housing nut! I didn't, and one day while driving along, the nut worked it's way off of the housing, and got stuck between the end of the housing and the cable end, sticking the thottle open...

I had an old Mr Gasket carb throttle bracket laying in a parts bin from my cheby truck, so I mounted it to the base of one of the carbs to hold the other end of the cable housing.

The linkage to the carbs was very simple off of the Edmunds dual intake as it has cast in "ears" to hold the linkage rod. Have a look at Don C's mockup and the Asche setup for other ideas.

I really like the cable setup, because it gets rid of all the slop that was in the old well worn factory linkage.

Pete

[blueskies]

The only "issue" is that the Carter-Webers are still available new, while I believe the Holley-Webers are all rebuilds, at least from Langdon. I'm not sure if it is really an issue or not.

Marty

It is my understanding also, from talking to Tom Langdon, that the Carter/Webers have a slightly smaller primary, making them more ideal for the smaller displacement engines. Don't hold me to that though, worth a call to Tom to find out. He's forgotten more about carburation that I'll ever learn...

Pete

[1940Mopar]

I appreciate all of the info. Looks like I'll be picking up some Carter/Webers from Langdon. Hopefully the throttel cable setup will be just as clean and simple as yours Pete.

Omari

[Don Coatney]

If I remember right, I bought the 36" cable. You can buy the cable long, and cut it to fit.

Here's a coulple more pics, unless they come up as the dreaded redx...

The cable fit the '50 gas pedal arm like they were made for each other. I fabbed the little bracket to hold the cable housing to the floor.

Besure to locktite the cable housing nut! I didn't, and one day while driving along, the nut worked it's way off of the housing, and got stuck between the end of the housing and the cable end, sticking the thottle open...

I had an old Mr Gasket carb throttle bracket laying in a parts bin from my cheby truck, so I mounted it to the base of one of the carbs to hold the other end of the cable housing.

The linkage to the carbs was very simple off of the Edmunds dual intake as it has cast in "ears" to hold the linkage rod. Have a look at Don C's mockup and the Asche setup for other ideas.

I really like the cable setup, because it gets rid of all the slop that was in the old well worn factory linkage.

Pete

Pete;

No dreded red X's this time on my home puter.

[teardrop puller]

I used the same throttle cable, had to cut it to keep it from flapping. Stainless covering, but the same from Lokar. Works smooth, have the same cable on my jeep.

kai

[1940Mopar]

I've already ordered the cable, along with what i hope will be the first of four brand new wheel cylindesr, and some por 15 to start tidying things up in the front. Carbs will be ordered as soon as i can reach someone at Langdon or can order from someone else who carries the carter/webers.

any leads are greatly appreciated.

[1940Mopar]

Just ordered my carter/webers from Langdon. Talked with Tom who was most helpful, not to mention knowledgeable. I'm probably one of the younger guys on this board and haven't really had the experience of dealing with parts guys who know what they are talking about.

It's kinda discouraging to know that people who do such a great job of imparting their knowledge and wisdom to you via a simple transaction will eventually disappear and no longer perform their great service to this hobby.

Langdon is not shipping until after 2/18/08 because he just had major surgery and the doctor has told him he can't lift anything until then. I wish him well and hope that he'll be around for a long time in the future.

[blueskies]

...Talked with Tom who was most helpful, not to mention knowledgeable...

I'll second that-

I purchased a number of items for my flathead build from Tom, and he was always willing to spend the time to educate me about what I didn't know (this took quite a while...), and his service is top notch. Highly recommened.

Pete

[james curl]

Talked to Tom the other day about his version of the T-5 adapter for the flathead MOPARS. He has a special world class T-5 from a Mustang with the longest input shaft of all T-5 transmissions with an S-10 T-5 tailshaft housing installed. The trans has a .70 overdrive. He has drilled the two upper holes in the bellhousing and installed bolts from the inside of the bellhousing to bolt the top of the transmission to and a bar on the bottom for the bottom bolts. The longer shaft does not require a bung to extend the bearing. The whole setup will be about $900.00. Told him that I had installed a 3.55:1 rearend in my car and was thinking about an OD or a T-5, and wanted to be able to cruise 80 mph on the interstate in west Texas. Tom told me I did not have enough engine for it, need to go to 4.11:1 rearend.

[billwillard]

If you use a 4.11 rear you are defeeting the purpose of over drive.

[Young Ed]

4.10 is the OEM rear end ratio for an OD equiped car. I agree 3.73 is too low for a stock engine car. If you are going dual carb etc you could maybe make it work then.

[Don Coatney]

Told him that I had installed a 3.55:1 rearend in my car and was thinking about an OD or a T-5, and wanted to be able to cruise 80 mph on the interstate in west Texas. Tom told me I did not have enough engine for it, need to go to 4.11:1 rearend.

I have a 3.55/1 rear gear and my Desoto flathead six engine pulls my car with no problem. I only have to downshift on the steepest of hills. I would think a strong running 230 fladhead six would also work well with this combination.