bkahler Posted November 28, 2007 Report Posted November 28, 2007 Ok, I've used the search feature and tried to find some info on installing the pedal draft seals on my B3B. The few that I found implied that you use vaseline or soapy water and force them over the top of the foot pedal. Well I tried that until my fingers got so tired from stretching, slipping and sliding that I finally gave up . The pedals are not installed in the truck yet. I was doing this work on the kitchen floor. Is there some secret thats not being discussed openly on how to get these seals in place . I got my draft seals from restoration specialties. Don't know if thats the best place to get them. Any insight, photos or prayers would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Brad Quote
chucky07 Posted November 28, 2007 Report Posted November 28, 2007 hey..i have my trans out and was wondering about the seals myself... Well I haven't ordered the seals yet but I need to as mine were "non existent" but It looks like since i had to remove my brake and cluch pedal that to slip the seals from the bottom then attach the pedals with seals over then to the side of bell housing? not sure but I think would work this way.. just my opinion...hopefully someone's done it before and can help Quote
Byronb3b Posted November 28, 2007 Report Posted November 28, 2007 I put mine on over the pedals with a good coating of soap from the tire shop, it really was a battle, but it worked without tearing the rubber. Good luck. Byron Quote
Young Ed Posted November 28, 2007 Report Posted November 28, 2007 If your pedals arent installed it should be a lot easier to slip the cover over the other end. Thats how we did dads 40 Quote
grey beard Posted November 28, 2007 Report Posted November 28, 2007 I had my pedals installed before my seals arrived. I just lubed them up with GoJo and snapped them over the pedals with a big number 3 Phillips screwdriver - snapped right on. Like you, I thought they'd never stretch on without tearing, but on they went. My problem was that the pedal eyes and bushings had worn so badly that someone had torched out the floorboard holes so they didn't scrape. I've seen this now on four other trucks as well. This means that the seals have nothing on which to sit when you do get them on. I had to mig some coupons around the holes to make a seal area for them to close against, on the floor board piece that has the gas pedal holders on it - some fun. The real problem associated with this mess are the pedals themselves. Each pedal weighs nearly forty pounds - they're cast - and once the eyes of the pedals begin to wear, they flop around from their own weight, and really wear out badly. Fluid drive trucks are made differently here. The brake pedal is made with a bushing and a grease zerk that nobody knew was there years ago and everyone ignored. Cost me a bundle to get a new brake pedal bushing installed. Now I guarantee the zerk will get greased regularly. The big problem is the clutch pedal. It has no bushing because it is supposed to move with the clutch shaft and therefore theoretically needs none. My clutch pedal had more side-to-side play than the brake pedal, so something had to be done. You can't fasten the pedal to the shaft because this is the clutch pedal clearance adjustment for free play, as well. We cut the eye of the clutch pedal open with a band saw and welded two ears onto the two sides of the cut. These were threaded and a pinch bolt was installed. After the pledal was installed in the chassis, the clutch clearance was adjusted next to the pedal in the usual way, then the new pinch bolt was tightened down so the pedal could dnot flop side-to-side. This worked fine for me and both pedals now are reasonably tight, so the seals now have a chance of doing something. In light of the magnitude of this problem, I'm really surprised that no one on this forum speaks about it. Most Pilothouse trucks I have seen exhibit the pedal wear problem, so I know mine is not alone with this mess. If any of you has figured a better work-around for the clutch pedal fix, I'd sure like to know. The only other fix I can imagine would be a new pedal casting and a new cross shaft into the bell housing. JMHO Quote
Dennis_MN Posted November 28, 2007 Report Posted November 28, 2007 I bought my floorboard seals from Roberts and I was thinking that I would have to remove the pedals to install them. I was thinking that until Daves post about removing the pedals with the cab on was the worst job he ever did. So I soaped the pedal end and I couldn't believe that they actually slipped on. My next problem was the side play of the clutch which was rubbing against the floorboard and making the most god awlfull noise. I can see why someone would cut the floorboard. And to think these trucks need to be double clutched. I bolted a strip of teflon to the floorboard so that the clutch rubs on that instead of the floorboard. Slience is golden Dennis Quote
norrism1 Posted November 29, 2007 Report Posted November 29, 2007 I heated mine up with a hair dryer to soften the rubber. Worked fine with a little lube on afterwards. Quote
bkahler Posted January 6, 2008 Author Report Posted January 6, 2008 Well, I tried soap and then tried the hair dryer trick with no success. I now have two torn dust seals. I bought the first two from Roberts. I think I'll check out the dust seals from Steele Rubber and see if they are any better. I'll keep ya posted......... Brad Quote
stevenelle Posted January 6, 2008 Report Posted January 6, 2008 Where did you get a strip of teflon to help this pedal noise?? Quote
Dennis_MN Posted January 7, 2008 Report Posted January 7, 2008 Where did you get a strip of teflon to help this pedal noise?? My source was the Local Hardware store in the housewares dept. I bought a rubber pan scraper with a slippery plastic handle. Does the job and only cost a buck. Dennis Quote
MBF Posted January 9, 2008 Report Posted January 9, 2008 The ones I purchased from Roberts went on easily w/o tearing. I just used some armor all and my fingers to get them to slip over the pedals. Mike Quote
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