Cooper40 Posted May 5 Author Report Share Posted May 5 @kencombs Yeah I'm probably going to pull the engine dig into it a little more. Bring the crank to a machine shop and do like valve lapping and flushing the block at home. Can't afford to bring the whole thing to a machine shop. For now I do want to keep this engine and pick away at it gradually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted May 5 Report Share Posted May 5 Unless it's been rebuilt a few times I seriously doubt it has 200k miles on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cooper40 Posted May 5 Author Report Share Posted May 5 @Sniper Yeah I don't know. I thought if it looked like the first digit had moved then it's been rolled over but I'm just guessing. This is what the odometer looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 (edited) 5 hours ago, Cooper40 said: @kencombs Yeah I'm probably going to pull the engine dig into it a little more. Bring the crank to a machine shop and do like valve lapping and flushing the block at home. Can't afford to bring the whole thing to a machine shop. For now I do want to keep this engine and pick away at it gradually. Earlier you had mentioned a considerable ridge at the top of each cylinder. This indicates a high mile engine. Creating a tapered cylinder. The cylinder is wider at the top than the bottom. This is caused by the rings expanding during the combustion process. Which is when the piston is near TDC. If you’re proceeding to get the crank turned, the block cylinders sure could use a bore. If you don’t bore the block, new piston rings will not seal well. They’ll also likely wear quicker. If you are thinking of getting .010 over piston rings, then filing the ends to the proper ring gap at TDC; not a good plan. The gap will likely be too tight at BDC. Piston rings expand when hot. The ring gap spec accounts for this expansion, in a straight, true cylinder bore. Too tight of ring gap at TDC will likely end up with broken piston rings or a broken piston. I wish it were easier and an engine rebuild could be done on a strict budget. Unfortunately the measured engine wear dictates the extent of a rebuild. Doing a little bit to the engine this year, then buttoning it up to drive, and doing a little more next year could be catastrophic. Edited May 6 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cooper40 Posted May 6 Author Report Share Posted May 6 @keithb7 That all makes a lot of sense. I still haven't fully decided what to do yet. In the long it probably would be cheaper to just get a different engine and put it in. I'll keep checking marketplace. I wish it were easier too lol. Guess that's just the price you pay with buying these old cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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